Butcher block island top glue-up and support question

[Erik Holmes]

Hello all. I am building an edge-grain butcher block countertop for an island (the island is a repurposed buffet cabinet). The countertop is strips of maple, cherry and walnut, 64" by 30" and 1 3/4" thick. I am going to glue it up in a few sections to make it easier, then glue the sections together. I have a couple questions for anyone who has done something like this before, as I'm sure many of you have.

1) When gluing together my strips, do I need to put glue on both faces or is one ok? I have always put glue on both pieces of a joint, but it would be a lot easier in this case to lay several of the strips flat, spread glue on them at the same time with a roller and then turn them up and clamp them together. If I need to put glue on both sides of each joint, I think I'll only be able to do a few strips at a time before the glue skims over. I would think one side would be fine as long as I use enough glue.

2) There will be an 11-inch overhang for a dining counter running the long direction. I don't want to use corbels or brackets for support, so I'd like to route a channel underneath the top and put in some metal to brace it. A couple places I saw recommended using 1/2-inch thich by maybe 2" wide steel flat bar, but I'm thinking 1/2- or 3/4-inch steel pipe would give me plenty of support with a lot less metal and weight (and cost). I would think if I put one end of a steel pipe in a clamp I could stand on the other end without it flexing much if at all. I'm thinking I can drill slots through the pipe, put it in the routed channel and screw it to the underside of the countertop. Maybe four pieces, one every 16 inches or so. I really just need enough support for when someone inevitably uses the overhang to push up while getting off a stool. Do you think my plan will work? If so, do you think 1/2 inch pipe would work or should I go for 3/4?

Also, here is a photo of where I am at now.

Thanks all!

counter.jpg

[roger wiegand]

I really don't think an 11 in overhang of a 1-3/4" thick wooden top needs any added support unless you are going to have 300 lb guys jumping up and down on top of it-- even then it would be tough to break it.

Glue on one side should be fine, as long as you get a little squeeze out you've filled the joint.

[Erik Christensen]

when I made my end grain butcher block top I just put glue on one side & it has been a couple of years of daily use and no problems as yet - if you want to be really sure just add some extra glue to the one side and do a quick rub together before clamping

when I need to beef up a span of wood I use angle iron - it is easy to get flush - a track saw cut for the vertical side and router with template to sink the horizontal side flush - drill & counter sink screw holes in the angle iron - wet the wood and put gorilla glue on the angle iron - screw in place. piece of cake

[Erik Holmes]

Yeah, I'm not sure I need any support either but I keep reading that I should support it. It'll give me peace of mind if nothing else. Thanks!

[john bateman]

Something to keep in mind...when you glue up, say, three 10" wide sections individually, then try to glue those three together. If there is any bow in each section, even maybe just .01", you'll never get enough clamping pressure to draw them together for a good glue joint. Since it will get used in a wet environment, that could be a potential point of failure over time.

[Erik Holmes]

That's an interesting point. I've read lots of tutorials online saying to do it in sections. How would you do it? Thirty strips is an awful lots to glue up in one go.

[Erik Holmes]

That's a good suggestion. Thanks.

[Ken Combs]

I don't think support is needed either. But, if you want to put it in for your piece of mind think about this: Glue up all but the last strip. On the side where you want support. drill a hole of the appropriate size 18 or so inches deep. A ship auger like electricians use would be ideal. coat a steel rod or pipe with you glue of choice ( I like epoxy for this and drive it in the hole. Now glue on the last piece. Just remember which side it's on if you decide to trim the width down DAMHIKT.

[mreza Salav]

The idea of hidden "embedded" metal Ken suggests (if I understand him correctly) is very interesting. You can use a core-bit (say 3/4" or 1") router bit in the two mating strips that will house the pipe.
Now one thing you should think about is how you want to clean up the big slab of all the glue. It will be a chore!
As for glue-up of multiple strips: a method that I have used to glue multipe pieces of 16' long laminations for a curved railing is to put all the strips down on the floor (use poly under them), get a galon of glue and pore it liberally over them. then use a paint roller to spread the glue nice and evenly. Flip each piece 90 degree to the side and then clamp them (so glue on one side only, but liberally). You can clamp them all at once. Use pipe clamps, below and over and use cauls to get it flat.
As I said the biggest issue is cleaning the mess glue will create, and no matter what you do you'll get a mess.

[Erik Holmes]

I'm not sure I could drill a hole that deep straight enough. I'd be scared to death of going off track and busting through. My drill press is just a little bench model. Also, I should get the same results by routing a channel and screwing a pipe in there, right?

Yeah, the glue will be a pain but I'm going to try to scrape most of it off before it completely dries.

Another advantage of doing the glue up in sections is I can run them through the planer to make everything flat.

Thanks for the suggestions! I have some pondering to do.