Stair treads for bench top

[Irvin Gomez]

IMHO you'd be much better off with a construction lumber bench top than with the plan you propose. Also, think again about whether "flat" matters. Flatter is better. It will affect everything you build on it. Flatter is better.

Thanks, Jerry.

Quick, honest question: how flat is "flat"? I know it matters, but what sort of deviation is acceptable for simple, non-commercial, furniture work? I'm a hobbyist building little tables, chests of drawers, music instrument racks, and even a custom wooden case for my desktop computer. Nothing very big or complicated (I'm a graphic designer in 'real life' and like the look of simple, elegant woodwork).

I ask ask because I frequently read (and watch videos) where guys are talking about things like 0.00017" deviations and it seems to me that that type of "precision work" is probably more applicable to metal. Wood, to me, is far more interesting with some degree of imperfection, like knots, dings and the occasional almost-imperceptible curvature...

In other words: can good work be done on an 80" bench that sags 1/16" in the center, for example? My guess is that would be a serious problem mostly to guys doing a lot of plane work, not so much for power tool users. Is that a correct assumption?

[Irvin Gomez]

One other factor I have considered: even if I bite the bullet and order a laminated top for like $400 including shipping, I read a lot of guys claiming they had to flatten them upon arrival!

[Tom Ewell]

I've used a solid core exterior door for decades as a 3'x6'8" work surface, not as flat as a 'true' workbench but very serviceable.
It also serves as the table saw outfeed.

Also have flats available for assemblies but that's another matter.

[Mark Wooden]

I've used a solid core exterior door for decades as a 3'x6'8" work surface, not as flat as a 'true' workbench but very serviceable.
It also serves as the table saw outfeed.

Also have flats available for assemblies but that's another matter.

+1 on this-
You can usually find a decent solid core door on CL or other places and you may have to fill a hole or two with a solid wood plug. Another source would be a "real" lumber yard- not a BORG. Go to the yard desk and ask if they have any solid core slabs that are 2nds, overstock or returns. Sometimes you may have to re-glue some veneer or such but they make very serviceable bench tops.I recently bought a 3-0 x 7-0 with birch veneer for $25. One side had a nasty gouge, put that side down. Three coats of Waterlox, two coats of wax and glue comes right off after it dries. I have a few that I've been using for 10-12 yrs, just fill the drill holes and router digs with filler and carry on. Since they're inexpensive, no despair when they get dinged up.

[Cody Colston]

I'm planning a new work bench, a traditional scandinavian-style bench. I just got a quote from a hardwood dealer in Dallas of $3.13/bf for superior 8/4 Beech lumber. The 50 bf I need will only cost ~$160. I'll use Post Oak for the base which I have on hand.

Whatever you use, your bench top needs to be flat or it will be frustrating to you, regardless of your methods of work. If using solid wood, it will also likely move after a while and require flattening again. That's true of even the high-end benches like an Ulmia.

Consider using construction-grade SYP for your bench, rather than stair treads. 2 x 4's with the radiused edges ripped off will still leave plenty of width for a 3" thick bench top. It will be cheaper and SYP makes a better bench top than does Oak (unless the oak is finished with something like poly - not recommended) If using Pine or even stair trreads, let the lumber acclimate to your shop before building. I'd suggest waiting a minimum of a month. Waiting longer would be better.

A well-built bench will last your lifetime and probably your grandkid's lifetime. You might want to get a copy of "The Workbench Book" or the book on workbenches by Chris Schwarz before starting your build.

[Mike Wilkins]

My vote is to save the money to purchase stair treads and get plywood instead. Lots of folks, including me, have used plywood to make a bench top. If you go this route, use a hardwood plywood; glue two layers to make a 1 1/2" thick top (3 layers would be even better). All those layers of wood will make a strong top. Good luck and hang in there.

[David Eisenhauer]

Multi-layer plywood top with a "2 by" base will work just fine and is doable with the tools you have and your self-judged "lack of skill" (everybody starts and everybody gets better, only those that never try don't count). Mark and cut stuff as straight/square as possible, live with what is not quite perfect. Through-bolt the base together with carriage bolts rather than drywall screws. If money is tight (when is it never tight?), buy a sheet or stick at a time as $ becomes available. The solid-core door option described above is also a very good option if you can find one for less than the multi-layer ply would cost, plus it would save on needing so many clamps. Pipe clamp fixtures are fairly cheap, find some scrap/used/CL/cheapo pipe pieces. You can do this just as most of the rest of us did.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> glue them to a single layer of playwood

Not good idea. Gluing solid wood to plywood will cause warping. The solid wood will expand and contract with changes in humidity. The plywood will not move with moisture changes and the result will be warping.

[Irvin Gomez]

Multi-layer plywood top with a "2 by" base will work just fine and is doable with the tools you have and your self-judged "lack of skill" (everybody starts and everybody gets better, only those that never try don't count). Mark and cut stuff as straight/square as possible, live with what is not quite perfect. Through-bolt the base together with carriage bolts rather than drywall screws. If money is tight (when is it never tight?), buy a sheet or stick at a time as $ becomes available. The solid-core door option described above is also a very good option if you can find one for less than the multi-layer ply would cost, plus it would save on needing so many clamps. Pipe clamp fixtures are fairly cheap, find some scrap/used/CL/cheapo pipe pieces. You can do this just as most of the rest of us did.

Thanks David and everyone else for the generous advice. Will consider everything and will post back when I'm done, including the bumps, regrets and sound decisions - maybe even a few pics! I'm sure there will be a few of each...

[Irvin Gomez]

>>>> glue them to a single layer of playwood

Not good idea. Gluing solid wood to plywood will cause warping. The solid wood will expand and contract with changes in humidity. The plywood will not move with moisture changes and the result will be warping.

My understanding is that the stair treads are made of finger-jointed pieces of hardwood under 1/8" oak layers on both sides (they have solid oak treads for a bit extra money), so there will not be much expansion occurring. I have to find out more...

[Frank Pratt]

First thing: get the idea of gluing solid wood to plywood out of your head. It just will not work, no way, no how. As many others have suggested, build the top out of multiple layers of plywood or MDF. It's cheap, solid, heavy, flat & you can do it with the limited set of tools that you have. That FWW article on the all ply bench is good, but it would probably be easier to build the base out of construction lumber.

It'll be a fun learning experience & you'll have a very serviceable bench when your done.

[Chris Hachet]

Thanks David and everyone else for the generous advice. Will consider everything and will post back when I'm done, including the bumps, regrets and sound decisions - maybe even a few pics! I'm sure there will be a few of each...

Please do, we would love to see what you come up with. Don't feel bad if you make a mistake or two with lumber...it would probably be laying on the forest floor if it had not been harvested....

[Chris Hachet]

First thing: get the idea of gluing solid wood to plywood out of your head. It just will not work, no way, no how. As many others have suggested, build the top out of multiple layers of plywood or MDF. It's cheap, solid, heavy, flat & you can do it with the limited set of tools that you have. That FWW article on the all ply bench is good, but it would probably be easier to build the base out of construction lumber.

It'll be a fun learning experience & you'll have a very serviceable bench when your done.

Also, you can keep your first bench as an assembly table or a place to store parts waiting for assembly when you find yourself getting around to building a better bench...

[Bob DeWolfe]

Go to recycle store and get a solid core door. Cut to size, glue & screw 1"" MDF to this. Double sided tape a 1/8" hardboard for the top and trim it out with pine. When the top gets damaged change it out for another hardboard top. Build the base out of 2 by material. This will last you a long time and give you a solid flat surface to work on.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Solid core doors make great tops, just saying..


You asked how flat this must be. The answer is.... it depends on what you will do with it.

First, note that I purchased a long straight edge and then I can use hand planes to flatten my bench.

If the bench is flat, then I can lay a rough board on the bench and quickly check rocking (and similar) to see if it is flat. If you put a chair (or similar) on the bench, if it is not flat, then you cannot set the feet so that they will sit flat on a flat floor. If you assemble something on the bench, it is less likely to be square.

These claim to be 0.003" over the entire length; pretty good for the price.

So, will you be building things where the tolerance matters this much? Probably not, at least not at first, but, I could be wrong!