The Big Ugly Tool

[Reed Gray]

Well, I have talked about it a lot, now, here is how to make one. I will film another one about this tool and feature a master of it, probably later in the year. Just another scraper to me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orV-Oi5UsSo

robo hippy

[Dok Yager]

Love the DIY factor. Unique way to make a scraper.

[Thom Sturgill]

I was concerned about heating the metal to cherry red and looked it up. Asteg.com says the following:

... In addition, it will not anneal or lose its cutting edge as will H.S.S. when subjected to high-red heats generated during the cutting cycle.

Tantung G is recommended for general purpose machining of both ferrous and non-ferrous metal and general woodworking operations. For catalog items, Tantung G Hardness is 60 to 63 Rockwell C...


So no damage to the metal with the acetylene torch. I took a silversmithing course many years ago, and remember that silver solder comes in different heat ranges which were referred to as hard to soft. This is needed so that pieces can be built up in stages without de-soldering prior stages. We used acetylene, but NOT oxy-acetylene. Not quite as hot, but hot enough to silver solder. Also we applied the flux as a liquid if I remember correctly.

[Reed Gray]

Randal had a very old jar of flux that had dried out. Talked to the welding shop, and the paste/liquid form is water based, so crumbling up the chunks worked fine. Paste might be easier to spread.

robo hippy

[David Gilbert]

I watched the video and found it very interesting. At one point you make reference to how it will be ground back with use. What system do you use to sharpen the big ugly? Can you sharpen tantung with a CBN wheel.

Cheers,
David

[Reed Gray]

Tantung sharpens easily on standard aluminum oxide wheels, and CBN. I do relieve most of the heel on the bevel since the lower part is softer steel, and can load up your CBN wheels. I haven't had any problems with it loading as the Tantung will take most of the loading off, and a standard scraper does the rest.

robo hippy

[Jeramie Johnson]

Great video Reed. Thank you for doing this. Looks like I will have a couple more requests of my brother-in-law.

[Rob Grindler]

Two questions ,where can one buy tantung? And can you weld the tantung to the bar,with a mig welder or arc welder?

[Reed Gray]

Rob, I have a video on making the Big Ugly up on You Tube. You have to use silver solder ribbon rather than welding or brazing, which I am told is best for metals that are not similar. PM sent...

robo hippy

[Dwight Rutherford]

I am interested in a source for the tantung also. Thanks

[Bob Fogel]

What is silver content of the silver solder you used?

[Brice Rogers]

Bob,

When I silver solder things like bandsaw blades, dissimilar metals and things that cannot take the temperature of welding without severe distortion, I use an alloy from Harris of 45 percent silver. I bought it from a welding store. It is very very strong. Here is what Harris said on their website: " Safety-Silv® 45 Description: General Purpose Silver Brazing Alloy. Excellent general-purpose brazing alloy. Often specified in government use. Good ductilitiy and capillary flow. Color is silver to light yellow."

It flows like water when at the "liquidus" temperature. But hard silver solder come in silver concentrations from about 25 percent to about 56 percent and there are a dozen or more special alloys for unique applications.

The surfaces need to be very clean (e.g., no finger print oil) and fluxed. You only want to get the flux up to the melting temperature of the silver solder. In my case, that's about 1370 degrees F. Or roughly red in color. If you overheat it, you can burn the flux and interfere with the soldering process. If I were trying to make a big Ugly, I would probably take the silver solder wire and flatten it a bit with a hammer to make thin ribbons or a flattened serpentine. (SS can also be bought in ribbons). I'd flux the two metals and place the SS ribbons between the two pieces. Then heat the assembly until I see the solder flow. As soon as it flows, then remove the heat. That is what I do with SS scarf-joints on bandsaw blades and I have never had a scarf-joint failure. I have had better control and absolutely no flux burning doing that as compared to adding solder to the bare joint. Perhaps on the latter I have a poor technique.

On bandsaw blades I can silver solder with a propane torch. But if I was trying to do a Big Ugly, there is going to be a lot of heat conduction and dissipation - - I would need something hotter, like oxy-acetylene.

[Steve Nix]

I purchased my tantung g on eBay.

[Reed Gray]

I can't remember exactly, but 55% or 50 some thing.

robo hippy

[Bob Fogel]

Thank you for the very informative answer. I use oxyacetylene but need to order solder.

Bob,

When I silver solder things like bandsaw blades, dissimilar metals and things that cannot take the temperature of welding without severe distortion, I use an alloy from Harris of 45 percent silver. I bought it from a welding store. It is very very strong. Here is what Harris said on their website: " Safety-Silv® 45 Description: General Purpose Silver Brazing Alloy. Excellent general-purpose brazing alloy. Often specified in government use. Good ductilitiy and capillary flow. Color is silver to light yellow."

It flows like water when at the "liquidus" temperature. But hard silver solder come in silver concentrations from about 25 percent to about 56 percent and there are a dozen or more special alloys for unique applications.

The surfaces need to be very clean (e.g., no finger print oil) and fluxed. You only want to get the flux up to the melting temperature of the silver solder. In my case, that's about 1370 degrees F. Or roughly red in color. If you overheat it, you can burn the flux and interfere with the soldering process. If I were trying to make a big Ugly, I would probably take the silver solder wire and flatten it a bit with a hammer to make thin ribbons or a flattened serpentine. (SS can also be bought in ribbons). I'd flux the two metals and place the SS ribbons between the two pieces. Then heat the assembly until I see the solder flow. As soon as it flows, then remove the heat. That is what I do with SS scarf-joints on bandsaw blades and I have never had a scarf-joint failure. I have had better control and absolutely no flux burning doing that as compared to adding solder to the bare joint. Perhaps on the latter I have a poor technique.

On bandsaw blades I can silver solder with a propane torch. But if I was trying to do a Big Ugly, there is going to be a lot of heat conduction and dissipation - - I would need something hotter, like oxy-acetylene.