Anybody have ideas on a good shop vac

[Jim Barstow]

I used a standard shop vac with a tool triggered switch for years. Very frustrating since the filter clogged easily. I got a new makita vacuum with an anti-clog system and built-in tool trigger. The filter never clogs, the hose is very flexible, and it has tool triggering built in.

[roger wiegand]

I've been very happy with my Bosch VAC090S. A lot less money than some others, but HEPA capable, very quiet, and triggered by the tool. Works like a champ.

[Dan Friedrichs]

A lot less money than some others

I'd never heard of it so I googled.....that seems like much MORE money then some of the others. $550?

[Jon Endres]

I had been using a pretty cheap Shop-Vac up until a few years ago, when my wife picked up a Ridgid vac on a Black Friday special for $25. Have no idea what the model is, it was probably sourced specifically as a loss leader for Home Depot. I upgraded the vac with a CleanStream HEPA filter and the 10' Pro-Grade universal hose, which is a lot more durable than the old one. Of course, for the cost of the upgrades, I could have just bought three more vacuums....

The Ridgid is still sucking away, works as well now as it ever did. Allegedly the W1450 which is their 14-gallon model, is a best buy or best value in on of the woodworking magazines. I would certainly buy another Ridgid vac. I like mine, even if it was cheap.

[Tom M King]

We run two of the big Rigid's, and one of the big Shop Vacs with a bag to clean up behind sheetrock and plaster work. One of the Rigid's even ran all day every day for a week several years ago, and is still good to go. We have a half dozen or so of the Cleanstream fliters so we always have a dry one while others are drying after washing. I don't know that I've thrown away one of the filters yet.

[roger wiegand]

I'd never heard of it so I googled.....that seems like much MORE money then some of the others. $550?

Well, less than the similar Festool. I paid $425 for mine.

[lowell holmes]

I have one from Lowes and Home Depot. They both are good.

[Erik Christensen]

shop vacs are like many things in life - you often get what you pay for. Features that are essential (IMHO) for a shop vac used for sanding are:

• HEPA filter - why even bother if the vac makes the air 'look' clean while spewing a bunch of invisible but very harmful dust in the air
• durable, flexible hose with swivel fitting
• speed control so on finer grits you don't suck the sander into the wood and over sand
• tool activated trigger

yes you can get an inexpensive BORG vac and retro fit a lot of that functionality but if you add up the costs & hassles you might find one of the 'too expensive' vacs is not that pricey after all - make sure you are comparing apples to apples buy adding aftermarket upgrades to lower cost vacs that lack required features essential for sanding support - then make you choice on what is the best value

[Rick Potter]

I have several shop vacs for individual uses. There is a big one for my chop saw, that eventually will have a piping system along that wall. Another big one is on a cart with a home made boom. I use it for a lot of things, mostly the track saw. Both have Dust Deputies.

For sanding, I have a small, cheap one that sits under the sanding bench. It has a good washable filter, and I can sand quite a bit before having to clean it.

If all you want it for is sanding, they have a new cheapie ($29) at COSTCO. It has a ridiculous 4HP rating, and a cage for a foam type filter, but it looks like it might accept a real filter. It is stainless steel, labeled Kawasaki (?), and will fit under a bench easily. Screamer? Can't tell you.

Just sayin'.

[Jim Dwight]

I started a thread over on the shop forum that has a couple pictures of my Rigid with Clearstream filter and dust deputy shop vac. You can start with the Rigid but I would get the filter as soon as possible. Otherwise it is collecting debris but blasting fine stuff out for you to breath. The DD makes filter cleaning much less necessary. I clean mine about every 5 buckets of debris. And that is not washing, just tapping some of the dust out. I haven't washed it since getting the cyclone.

For sanders, you need a smaller hose. I use the Bosch 5 meter hose, it's 35mm. Still pretty big for sanders but works. I've used my speed control for a router on it and it will let you adjust the suction down as low as you want. With no control, the vacuum sucks the sander to the wood pretty tight.

I also have an auto-on switch which is handy but not necessary. The necessary bits are the shop vac and the filter. Probably on the order of $80. Then maybe a better hose for ~$30. The a cyclone for another $50 and the same or a bit less if you want a cart for the whole thing. I would get the switch last. Vac works fine without it but it is a nice extra to have.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Whe you turn on the vacuum, this causes air to pull in through those holes in the sandpaper. This in turn pulls the sander into the wood. Greater suction means greater force pulling into the wood.

I thought that the procedure was as follows:

Turn on the vacuum and adjust the suction until it just pulls the sander into the wood. Do not just turn it all the way up or it will be like putting pressure on the sander and potentially causing swirl marks in the wood.

So, do "you guys" use vacuums without adjustable suction while sanding? If so, do you end up with swirl marks, or do you simply fix that with hand sanding after the fact?

<edit>

Side note: I own a Festool adjustable AND I own an old Craftsman with a huge amount of suction. It is probably 10 years old now. Probably older.

[Mike Henderson]

Whe you turn on the vacuum, this causes air to pull in through those holes in the sandpaper. This in turn pulls the sander into the wood. Greater suction means greater force pulling into the wood.

I thought that the procedure was as follows:

Turn on the vacuum and adjust the suction until it just pulls the sander into the wood. Do not just turn it all the way up or it will be like putting pressure on the sander and potentially causing swirl marks in the wood.

So, do "you guys" use vacuums without adjustable suction while sanding? If so, do you end up with swirl marks, or do you simply fix that with hand sanding after the fact?

<edit>

Side note: I own a Festool adjustable AND I own an old Craftsman with a huge amount of suction. It is probably 10 years old now. Probably older.

I have adjustable suction on the vac that I use with my sander. I adjusted it a long time ago and never change it. But I never found swirl marks at the high speed. Too much suction kept the sander from moving smoothly across the wood.

Mike

[Mike Chalmers]

Using a 2hp shop vac, not adjustable. No swirl marks, a little tight to the wood sometimes. The Bosch ROS I use it for mostly has an air port just before the line enters the sander housing. I suspect this keeps the suction at an acceptable level.