trotec 80 watt really a 45 watt

[Keith Winter]

No problem Keith, I was just curious if someone had ever tried it. I appreciate all the help I get on here, believe me. I can't imagine taking on all the marketing, product photography, design, web design, e-commerce, graphic design, accounting, woodworking, wood sourcing, finishing, shipping, customer service AND somehow instantly mastering the laser. It's been a hell of a learning curve but it's coming along. Btw most of that other stuff I specialize in, so I'm happy to return the favor in those areas. And since people asked, this is at 250 DPI. But I tried 333 DPI and found on some of my stuff it worked out better, particularly with the sapwood (a word I just learned a week ago). Thanks for the advice on the settings (btw 500 DPI was overkill in the end and produced no better result).

Attachment 335549 Attachment 335550

Great looking work Raphael!

[John Noell]

Looks good!

[Raphael Weil]

hey thanks guys, means a lot. Now I just need some sun so I can get this darn cherry to darken. We've still got snow here, doesn't help the process. I'm trying to do whatever I can before I have to buy UV lights to darken my cherry. If you had asked me 10 years ago while I sat at a desk if I'd be tanning wood I'd have called you nuts.

[Mike Null]

Raphael

Just a further explanation. 333 dpi will work just fine for most woods but it doesn't give me adequate contrast. For my work, depth of engraving is only necessary when I'm color filling. I had to do a piece of pine this week, and with pine, contrast is difficult to achieve. I engraved it once at 500 dpi then took it out of focus by about an 1/8 of an inch and ran it again for more contrast.

[Raphael Weil]

Raphael

Just a further explanation. 333 dpi will work just fine for most woods but it doesn't give me adequate contrast. For my work, depth of engraving is only necessary when I'm color filling. I had to do a piece of pine this week, and with pine, contrast is difficult to achieve. I engraved it once at 500 dpi then took it out of focus by about an 1/8 of an inch and ran it again for more contrast.

I've got a lot to learn on that side of things for sure. I suspect 500 dpi may be the trick for Maple for example, which right now is giving me some funny sort of grey result I don't love. Curious to see how it goes. Thanks again for all the tips on this front.

btw when you say out of focus by 1/8th, I'm guessing that's 1/8th closer to the piece?

[Mike Null]

Away, but closer may also work.

[Mayo Pardo]

In the Trotec Job control software in your material settings you have PPI.
I believe the number of pulses per inch has a direct effect on contrast and or cutting depth...
Raphael what is your PPI set to, and have you tried increasing it to see what effect it has?
Keep the same power and speed setting but increase your PPI and I think your depth will increase.

[Raphael Weil]

In the Trotec Job control software in your material settings you have PPI.
I believe the number of pulses per inch has a direct effect on contrast and or cutting depth...
Raphael what is your PPI set to, and have you tried increasing it to see what effect it has?
Keep the same power and speed setting but increase your PPI and I think your depth will increase.

Oh neat, I had read quickly that PPI only mattered for vector cuts. But I'm game to try and see what happens with my stuff. I believe my PPI is currently always set to 500.

[Barb Macdonald]

Hi Tami
It's probably too late to change anything, but I, a decidedly non-techie person, was able to change out the tube myself. I have an Epilog, but Trotec servcie department should be able to walk you through it, as epilog did for me. All I paid was shipping.
Best of luck!