Famag Bormax Forstner bit disappointment

[Tyler Keniston]

I've got a question for anyone who has used Famag Bormax forstner bits.

I have a set of the regular Famag bits up to one inch, and have been happy with them. I needed a 1 1/2" and decided to spend the extra to try out the 'premium' Bormax line. I also bought a 1 3/4" frued to see how different they really were (Frued is of course much cheaper).

I'm really scratching my head because everyone raves about the Bormax, but the thing has been nothing but a show. First of all, it came appearing kinda dull, or more accurately perhaps, with very large burs and an almost bent looting leading point. Comparing this to the frued, the Frued looks much better. But I thought, hey, its just looks. Don't judge by the cover. Perhaps the burs will wear off and the steel/design of the Bormax must just be that much better.

Then in cutting... as far as smoothness and speed and heat build up -I haven't used either enough to say for sure- but they really seem comparable. No really advantage to the Borax even, so far as I can tell. Perhaps in time...?

But here's the kicker. The Bormax is utterly failing at backing out of the hole without insanely screaming and sort of binding. I'm using them in the drill press at 540rpm. I know there can be some technique to withdrawing bits if the shavings have piled up a bit (quick, gentle, short up strokes on the press lever), but no matter what I do the Bormax is just a screaming! Even with barely any chips on top (like having cut 1/8" deep maybe) it screams when I try to back out. Oh, and the wood is hard maple.

Perhaps I am erring in technique some, but even if that's the case, this bit is by far the worst of any forstner I've used.

So short story long... has anyone else had these sorts of experiences with Bormax?

[Greg R Bradley]

I've had the exact opposite experience.

First Question is where did you get the tool?

I'm thinking counterfeit. I've seen lots of counterfeit from eBay and Amazon.

The counterfeit Fisch bits I bought from Amazon were that bad. See my review on this:
http://www.amazon.com/Fisch-FSF-3208...ilpage_o04_s01

[Greg R Bradley]

I don't have a Bormax handy but the quality is close to these Zobo Bits that I'm currently using:

Zobo.jpg
You mentioned "burrs" and rough edges and not sharp? No way it's real.

[Bill Orbine]

Some of these bits are reverse cutting. I have one of those given to me by a friend who thought it was defective. Heh heh!

[Tyler Keniston]

Thanks for the replies.

I bought the bit from traditional woodworker, so I am thinking it should be legit.
I really am stumped. I did reach out to them, and I'll let y'all know if anything illuminating comes from it.

[Greg R Bradley]

Can you take a pic of the "burrs" and leading point? I could tell if it is real.

[peter gagliardi]

Dull or poorly ground tools don't work, no matter the name. Send it back, or try to file or stone it into shape.

[pat warner]

Don't like Forstners; do have a few.
Cannot comment on the materials or QC of either brand.
Can comment on technique, however.
But let me preface, Forstners are hard to machine.
And I would not be surprised if yours was defective.
Notwithstanding, you're running the tool too fast.
I'd be at <200 RPM for a cutter that big.
And is the work flat and clamped down?
If it squirms and you're hand holding it, it will do & cut as you say.
Clamp the work (same species sample) on both sides of the quill, slow the drill
down. If the behavior is the same, (given you haven't smoked it yet), the drill is a bad one.

[Tyler Keniston]

I will try and take a photo when I get a chance. though admittedly, the burs did seem to come off and the edge looks not so bad now. The leading point still looks strange to me though. Even if it is dull a bit, the weird thing is the way it struggles backing out. It actually seems to cut decent. Not sure what to make of it. I'll run some more tests and see if I can track anything down... when I get some time to be fussy with it.

Pat,
Thanks for the thoughts. I don't doubt they are difficult to machine. Maybe something is a little off.

In regards to speed; my understanding is that generally you would be right, but these bits (with the wave tooth rims) are designed for higher speeds. Their recommended speed for this size bit in hardwood is actually faster than 540. Either way, I can assure you I didn't cook the bit. That said, maybe slowing it down will help with my squealing/jamming problem so i might give it a try.

[pat warner]

A bent cutter (shank or whatever) can cause poor, noisy retraction.
But, to be sure, the work has to be immobilized.
I'd also check the diameter. Does it taper from the cutting edge to the top
of the tool? Should be .005 - .010" taper.