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Thread: Dovetail help

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    Are the cuts straight? I think that Rob Cosman angled the boards in his vice so that he cut vertically for each tail.
    Rob doesn't angle his boards, rather he angles his saw as most skilled dovetailers do. In a tradeshow demo I went to many many years ago (I don't think he does any roadshows these days), he actually advised against doing it. In his 3-1/2minute tails first youtube video, you can see him cutting all the tails with the board straight up.

    Simon
    Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 04-11-2016 at 10:38 AM.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    N Illinois
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    Good advice and good videos....Much experience here...Good information. SMC provides again...
    Jerry

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    3,441
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    Rob doesn't angle his boards, rather he angles his saw as most skilled dovetailers do. In a tradeshow demo I went to many many years ago (I don't think he does any roadshows these days), he actually advised against doing it. In his 3-1/2minute tails first youtube video, you can see him cutting all the tails with the board straight up.

    Simon
    Interesting.... I thought that he was the one who set the boards at an angle, but that would have been in his first DVD. I would have been shocked if he did it in practice, only while teaching new sawers. I wonder who it was if it was not Rob.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Dublin, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    Interesting.... I thought that he was the one who set the boards at an angle, but that would have been in his first DVD. I would have been shocked if he did it in practice, only while teaching new sawers. I wonder who it was if it was not Rob.
    If you cut tails first then the angle isn't critical to fit, as any angular error is corrected when you scribe the pins from the tails. Those cuts only need to be accurate enough to look uniform, and that's a pretty low bar because the human eye isn't very good at measuring non-right angles.

    In contrast, it IS important that the tail cuts be at right angles to the face, and starting on a level surface makes that easier to achieve since the saw won't tend to "skitter off" to one side or the other. That's why most teachers (or at least the ones I've experienced/watched/read) don't recommend tilting the tailboard.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 04-11-2016 at 9:22 PM.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Marshall, NC
    Posts
    282
    Welp, I'm getting keyed up sitting here. I'm a gonna go and ruin some more boards now, wish me luck everybody. Thanks all!

  6. #21
    IMO a few keys to good DTs:

    1. Cutting square across for tails and square down for pins.
    2. Leaving the line (not splitting the line).
    3. A quality saw.
    4. Quality chisels with low side bevel height to avoid marring the corners of the tails when paring.
    5. A slight back bevel cut on tails.
    6. Accurately milled parts.
    7. An accurate system for lining up parts and marking (I'm not a fan of marking knives I use a sharp, flat sided pencil lead and leave all the line).
    8. SHARP chisels!

    I am also a fan of making a shallow rabbet on the tails.

    You have the right attitude keep trying don't be so critical on yourself.

    When you do get the perfect DT (and you will) try to remember what you did!!

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