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Thread: Dresser Build: Web Frame design?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    Dresser Build: Web Frame design?

    Hi All,

    Just looking for some affirmation, or suggestions before i make the next few crucial decisions on my current project. I'm building a dresser that will double as a changing table for my soon-to-be born son's room. The dresser is solid poplar, and will be painted, per my wife's request. Threw together a quick model the other day during lunch:

    IMG_1451.JPGIMG_1452.JPG

    Thus far, the side and top panels are glued up and flattened. I've also already build solid web frames with glue/pocked hole screws. My initial plan was to use thru-dado's in the sides, for both simplicity, and considering the piece will be painted in the end. What would traditionally be the "sub-top" is a 4th web frame that i have rabbeted into the sides. I'm a little worried now about how to keep the case secure and square without gluing the web frames into the case sides ...

    So any suggestions as to how to attach the web frames? I had thought about either gluing the front in place (stile deep), leaving the rest floating in the dado, or screwing into the case sides through slots in the web frames.

    I'm also undecided on the back -- i had planned to run a 1/4" rabbet to accept a plywood back, but have also contemplated a frame and panel variant to help keep the case square.

    Any suggestions? Thanks!

    IMG_1443.JPG

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Napa Valley, CA
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    One traditional method is illustrated below. Sliding dovetails (rather than dadoes) connect the web frame to the carcase side. The front couple of inches and the back rail can be glued, but the rest floats to allow wood movement. The web frame itself uses a glued M&T joint in the front, and a "dry" M&T in the back---also to allow wood movement.

    One could also use screws in slotted holes, but the very front and very back would not be held as tightly as with the dovetail. (Not much strength in gluing in the front web rail to case side--mostly an end-grain joint)

    Plywood back or frame-and panel back will help keep the case square. (Plywood being quick and easy. F&P being more "traditional.")

    Web Frame 4-9-16.png

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I assemble my web frames with lap joints. I attach the to the cabinet sides with pocket screws. The screws at the front regular holes. The ones in the middle and back are slotted to allow for wood movement. I glue and screw the web frame to the face frame.

    I make sure each web frame is square as I assemble them and that they are all exactly the same size in all directions. As I assemble the cabinet, I make sure to keep everything square. The back panel will give the cabinet rigidity.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  4. #4
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    What Jerry describes is traditional and proven. This does require a short sliding DT in the front with rear M&T that float. I do my frames as Lee describes and rely on glue in the first 2-3 inches of the dado or glue and pocket screws depending on the size of the case.

    Either way you want to allow for movement and provide a side to side strength contribution. so: sliding DT's/glue or screws/glue at the front and some form of float at the rear.

    There are other ways that are just as correct. These are a few.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Placitas, New Mexico
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    One other thought: most changing tables have a "railing" around the sides and back of the top to prevent clothing, diaper pins, baby, etc. from falling off. I have even done that on the headboard of a bed (see picture) to prevent stuff from falling behind the headboard. Finished-s.jpg
    Johanna
    Placitas, New Mexico

  6. #6
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    Its been 9 months. I wonder if he ever built it.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7
    I just did a couple similar projects using web frames dadoed to a solid carcass and glued in the front. It never occurred to me to use sliding dovetails. Why? Will my pieces not stand the test of time? I guess the best I can do is go back and add some pocket screws to reinforce the web-to-case joint.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    I suggested the sliding dovetail as a "traditional"--proven--approach. The dovetails hold the carcase tight to the web frames, holding the side panel flat, while allowing for wood movement/expansion. But there are other ways (as suggested by Lee and Glenn above).

    To illustrate another option, a shallow dado, combined with screws in slotted holes accomplish the same thing:

    Web Frame [2] 12-26-16.jpg

    Roger-- if your panel is only attached to the web frames at the front, and to the back, there is potential for it to cup, but it may stay flat on its own. If you are tempted to add some screws, be sure to elongate the holes so the panel can expand/contract without having the screws cause problems.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Its been 9 months. I wonder if he ever built it.
    It's been 9 months. He already had it half built in April. I'll bet there's been several hundred diaper changes on that thing by now

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