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Thread: Workbenches: Size, Weight, and Stability

  1. #16
    I've seen plans for small benches complete with vises and dog holes that are designed to be clamped on top of a bench to raise the work to a reasonable level for all you tall people. Sjobergs makes something like it, and Chris Schwarz posted plans for a taller version somewhere on his blog. He designed it for people who don't have the room or resources for a 'real' bench, but it might give you some ideas.

    If wider isn't possible I'd suggest adding a stretcher and/or an apron, but IMO length would be a better option. For one thing, it seems that lateral stability (racking) is a big deal for planing and and other hand tool tasks. For another, a 30" work surface gave me a really sore neck and back and I'm only 5'4". I suspect you'd gain as much or more by adding length and/or more structural support as you would by lowering the height and setting yourself up for terrible ergonomics.
    Last edited by Lenore Epstein; 04-20-2016 at 12:01 AM.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Dupont View Post
    I've, reluctantly, subtracted 6" from the height,
    That sounds way too low unless you not planning to do any planing at all. Too low will kill your back, too high it will get your shoulders and elbow. General rule of thumb is something like the distance from the ground to bottom of flexed hand. I am 6-1 my bench is 34" high. (Just a tad higher then recommended).

    It won't look all that pretty, but hopefully it will be functional
    Good decision to go ahead and built it, but screw it together? Maybe just difference in philosophy, but I submit we should always strive for excellent craftsmanship, even in something as simple as a clamp rack. Or a work bench.

    Look at this as an opportunity to learn how to do wedged or draw bored tenons or hidden bolts in the stretchers. Good practice for when you build the next bench.

    and not kill my back too badly!
    See above



    You really want a bench at least 80" long.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    That sounds way too low unless you not planning to do any planing at all. Too low will kill your back, too high it will get your shoulders and elbow. General rule of thumb is something like the distance from the ground to bottom of flexed hand. I am 6-1 my bench is 34" high. (Just a tad higher then recommended).


    Good decision to go ahead and built it, but screw it together? Maybe just difference in philosophy, but I submit we should always strive for excellent craftsmanship, even in something as simple as a clamp rack. Or a work bench.

    Look at this as an opportunity to learn how to do wedged or draw bored tenons or hidden bolts in the stretchers. Good practice for when you build the next bench.

    See above



    You really want a bench at least 80" long.
    All good points! But:

    As far as height is concerned, I wonder if part of it isn't technique? Ie, I'm only 5'8, and while I've had difficulty with a 30" bench, you're quite a lot taller than me to be using a 34" bench comfortably! I've found 36" to be ideal. I sometimes put my Japanese planing board up on my existing table to reach that height. My bench will actually wind up 31.5", as I'll have those 2x6's underneath the legs. Part of my reason for going with this construction over joinery is also because I won't have any place to put joints, be they mortises or dovetails, because I had to move the legs to the very edges of the bench to get stability.

    Moreover, I'm just making this with scraps; leftover construction grade pine. None of it is really pretty to begin with!

    I definitely do want to make a bench that is a work of art, at some point. But, I figure I need something on which to learn the art better first

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    When building a bench, two concepts: MASS and RIGIDITY.

    You really need to be thinking 3Xand 4X, not 2X.
    Especially with the base, you just won't have the mass or stability using 2X material.

    I recommend 3x3 or 4x4 for legs. Stretchers can be 2X6 or 8. Top supports at least 3x3.
    Everything should be through tenoned with wedges. Draw boring is also ok.
    The stretchers can be bolted if dissassembly is desired.

    The top should be of stable wood and at least 2 1/2" thick. Commonly 2x material is ripped to 4" wide and laminated together.

    Angled braces are unnecessary and you will never have to worry about tipping or racking if the base is built the way I described.

    I built the first one from bowling lane the base is 5x5's it weighs in the neighborhood of 400#.
    The second one is of maple the base is white oak it is my joinery bench not nearly as heavy as the first maybe 250#.
    Attachment 335957
    Attachment 335958
    Now those are a coule of good looking benches!

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Line View Post
    I'm not sure you can make a joint between the legs and the 2" top (1 1/2"?) that will resist the moment that develops at the joint when planning. Think about using stretchers just under the top and connecting to the legs.

    Pretty much this. My smaller bench is 2 x 4, with 4 x 4 legs and a ton of lumber in the base. It work as my assembly table and my outfeed table for my router table/table saw combo. I ahve dog holes for hold fasts, and a planing stop, but no vice on thi bench. I can beat on it and lane on it all day with no issue.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Dupont View Post
    All good points! But:

    As far as height is concerned, I wonder if part of it isn't technique? Ie, I'm only 5'8, and while I've had difficulty with a 30" bench, you're quite a lot taller than me to be using a 34" bench comfortably! I've found 36" to be ideal. I sometimes put my Japanese planing board up on my existing table to reach that height. My bench will actually wind up 31.5", as I'll have those 2x6's underneath the legs. Part of my reason for going with this construction over joinery is also because I won't have any place to put joints, be they mortises or dovetails, because I had to move the legs to the very edges of the bench to get stability.

    Moreover, I'm just making this with scraps; leftover construction grade pine. None of it is really pretty to begin with!

    I definitely do want to make a bench that is a work of art, at some point. But, I figure I need something on which to learn the art better first
    That sounds about right I'm just giving a rule of thumb to give an average for most guys.

    Yes you are correct you have to determine what's best for you and the type of work. For example if you are jointing a board will may be several inches above your bench height. If you are chiselling a lot you may want to sit down rather than bend. If you are using Japanese planes, this is a totally different ergonomic than pushing a plane.

    I would still try go with thicker legs you can always glue two 2x4's together to make a 3x3. If you are screwing is together then using glue will help but to avoid flexing and racking you need those stretchers between the legs. Even lap joints are better than simply screwing together. Also mounting the bench against the wall will give a lot of rigidity.

    Good luck with everything.

  7. #22
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    It turns out it is not necessary to make joints. My workbench is held together with bolts and can be therefore disassembled. Feels rock solid. 36" tall and 5' long. Has no overhang but was able to integrate twin screw end vise. Plus I plan to add leg vise. Kind of square box for clamping!

    Workbench.png
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4q...ew?usp=sharing

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    That sounds about right I'm just giving a rule of thumb to give an average for most guys.

    Yes you are correct you have to determine what's best for you and the type of work. For example if you are jointing a board will may be several inches above your bench height. If you are chiselling a lot you may want to sit down rather than bend. If you are using Japanese planes, this is a totally different ergonomic than pushing a plane.

    I would still try go with thicker legs you can always glue two 2x4's together to make a 3x3. If you are screwing is together then using glue will help but to avoid flexing and racking you need those stretchers between the legs. Even lap joints are better than simply screwing together. Also mounting the bench against the wall will give a lot of rigidity.

    Good luck with everything.
    Ah, the legs are lapped and glued as well. I may follow your suggestion and make the legs 3x3!


    Quote Originally Posted by Andrey Kharitonkin View Post
    It turns out it is not necessary to make joints. My workbench is held together with bolts and can be therefore disassembled. Feels rock solid. 36" tall and 5' long. Has no overhang but was able to integrate twin screw end vise. Plus I plan to add leg vise. Kind of square box for clamping!

    Workbench.png
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4q...ew?usp=sharing
    That's a nice looking bench! What thickness of stock did you use?

  9. #24
    If I was looking for a portable bench I would build using Will Myers plans for a Moravian workbench. Building the Portable Moravian Workbench with Will Myers

  10. #25
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    Take a look at the Moravian workbench. It's designed to be transportable. The legs are splayed lengthwise. You could modify it by reducing the length and increasing the height. One thing you can do to address lateral racking with your current design is X braces, which can either be braces in compression, or for real light weight, braces in tension. How much can be supported in tension? Quite a bit, with proper engineering... It's all about balancing forces.

    One problem you have is finding the right mix for YOU of two competing design criteria. Weight and mass are a plus for hand tool woodworking, whereas you want it light for portability. Don't agonize over this too much. Settle on a design that looks like it will do the trick, build it out of your construction grade material, and use it. If it doesn't work out, figure out what's right and what's wrong with it, fix/rebuild/build anew with that knowledge.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by John Sanford View Post
    One problem you have is finding the right mix for YOU of two competing design criteria. Weight and mass are a plus for hand tool woodworking, whereas you want it light for portability. Don't agonize over this too much. Settle on a design that looks like it will do the trick, build it out of your construction grade material, and use it. If it doesn't work out, figure out what's right and what's wrong with it, fix/rebuild/build anew with that knowledge.
    I like this advice best of all, especially because you've made it clear that you want to use the wood you have, are happy to wait to build a traditional permanent bench, and, unlike most Neanders here, you want to be able to break it down. Search for plans for portable benches to find structures that get the most stability with bolts and fasteners, then include a shelf that will accommodate a few 5 gallon water bottles, a bag of sand or gravel, or the like.

  12. #27
    Andanotherthing: Somewhere in Chris Schwaz's many writings about workbench design he very emphatically states that first time bench-builders should not attempt to reinvent the wheel. There will be plenty of time for experimentation once you know more about what you prefer, but it's better for first-timers to pick a design that has already been in use so you start with something that you know will work.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Dupont View Post
    That's a nice looking bench! What thickness of stock did you use?
    I used what I could find relatively cheap. In my case it was 27 mm thick panels (about 1"). I went this way because I think it is much easier to make from panels since they are pretty flat and have even thickness (almost). Even though it makes it more expensive. But when you are starting and there is simply no bench to build your first bench on...

    Design is a mixture of several styles. But mostly I wanted more like English style workbench with aprons that can be used without vises. Top is made out of two parts and third part can be bolted in the middle. Or I can put boxes in the middle for tools. There will be leg vise with linear bearings and walking deadman. Leg vise will be removable to clamp big things in front. Most parts made of two layers glued together: legs, top, stretchers. Then a lot of drilling to bolt everything together. For example, stretchers have 4 bolts on each end. Makes very solid bench. On the bottom I plan to put big clamps for storage and additional weight. But it is already sturdy enough in this size. Here is how it looks now (installing tail vise atm):
    DSC_0261a.jpg

    If you want to make very short bench (36" you say), then I would make something like this with no overhang.

  14. #29
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    Well, I built my bench! It's still missing a shelf and a toolwell, but the bench is already pretty heavy (by my standards) and very stable. No racking, and after putting shelving liner on the bottom, it doesn't slide around either. I'd say it's in the 50-60lbs range. Maybe lighter, but it feels pretty heavy. I'm not actually sure if I want to permanently attach the tool-well; it's already pretty heavy and a tad bulky to move. The shelf will definitely be removable. I think I'll just have it drop in.

    A few modifications I made from the original design:
    - Went with a 2.5" top
    - Legs are permanently attached, and mounted at the very ends of the bench
    - Overall height reduced to about 32"
    - Added a second lengthwise stretcher to prevent racking.

    It's not that pretty, but maybe I'll post pictures / more details at some point.

    > Jim & John: Love that Moravian Workbench! That might very well be the next bench that I build.

    > Andre: I like how you used 1" stock. I have to say, I hate working with construction lumber. The rounded corners and ovaled edges make accuracy a pain and are visually unpleasing unless you spend a *lot* of time and energy planing them flat, and the lumber itself is usually pretty rough.
    By the way, 36" was the height that I was planning, rather than the length. It was also the distance between the legs in my original design, but the top itself was 3.5' or 42". I followed your / others advise and moved the legs to the very end. That meant that I had to permanently attach them, though, which I did with a lapped joint, glue, and screws.
    Last edited by Luke Dupont; 04-25-2016 at 4:18 PM.

  15. #30
    Chairmaker Curtis Buchanan has a video up here where, at about 6:56, he talks about his 2' x 2' carving bench with 150 lbs of sand in it. It looks like it doesn't move while he scorps on it, so I assume it also wouldn't move while he planes on it. Seems like a good solution that's stood the test of time.

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