My signatures started running.

[Brian Kent]

Since I got some good advice here awhile back I have been signing my work with an extra fine point permanent marker. Then I spray with lacquer.

This worked every time, but recently the ink started running and flaring. This has been true with both Rust-oleum and Mohawk Pre-cat. In these photos, the wood was turned about 5 months ago and the ink was allowed to dry for over an hour.

Any recommendations? As a temporary solution I can sign on light wood with pencil, followed by lacquer spray.

[Thom Sturgill]

I would try a light coat of artists fixative, let that dry and then finish over it. Mask off the area first to control over-spray. The fixative is generally an acrylic, if I remember. Try it on a scrap or un-turned blank to make sure that it works and does not react to the overall finish. It is designed to work over pen and ink, water-color, chalk, etc.

[Brian Kent]

Thank you Thom. I had not heard of that before. I just ordered some.

[Brice Rogers]

In addition to what Thom mentioned, I've been also using a fine tip sharpie and then overcoat it with a wipe-on Minwax poly. I apply a very thin coat of poly using a cosmetic sponge with one (or at most two) wipes. If I rub too many times, it starts to act as a solvent and smear things. But one or two wipes fixes it fine. After the first coat dries/cures, then all is fine.

[Bill Blasic]

I use Pigma Micron pens and have found nothing that will make them run. Size 8 (.05mm) holds up the best for me. This is archival quality ink.

[John Keeton]

Like Bill, I use the Pigma pen, but I use the smaller size 005 (.2mm). The size 08 is actually .5mm, instead of .05mm.

[Alan Heffernan]

Thanks for the tip on Pigmas. I found a set of 6 black ones on Amazon in different tip sizes from 005 to 08 for less than $10.

[Ken Glass]

One more vote for Pigma archival Pen. I get mine at Michaels.

[Fred Belknap]

Brian I use the same pen that you use to sign my stuff. I finish mostly with WOP and Antique oil from Minwax and it works great. Alcohol seems to be the base for the ink and anything thing with alcohol in it will cause it to run. I have a few times use alcohol to erase a mistake. On dark wood like walnut I put a coat of WOP before signing and it makes it stand out better. I never had to wait for more than a few minutes for the ink to dry enough to put WOP over it.

[Brian Kent]

For those who use the Pigma Pens, do you have to over-coat it?

[Justin Stephen]

Lacquer can make just about any type of ink, dye, or paint run. Some are more affected than others. Gravity also can affect things. Was the piece laying flat or was it standing on end when you put the lacquer on?

[Reed Gray]

I quit using the Sharpie pens a while back. They would run with walnut oil, even if I left them dry over night before oiling. I have been using Faber-Castell pens which are also 'archival' pens and use India ink. Get them at my local Fred Meyer (owned by Kroger) store in their art department. I do like to let the signature sit for an hour or three before oiling.

robo hippy

[ALAN HOLLAR]

Try 2 or 3 mist coats of your lacquer on that spot first, then continue to finish as normal. A mist coat is applied the same as a regular coat, but twice the distance from surface.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Brian, I use the pigma pens and as long as you sign bare wood - nothing you apply over it will make it run. I have had it smear when signing on top of a poly finish and then tried to topcoat over that - so learned that lesson.