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Thread: Options for laser power meters

  1. #1
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    Options for laser power meters

    Until recently, I thought that the only laser power meter available for testing my 80W CO2 was the synrad power wizard 250. They're pretty expensive, so I was looking around for alternatives. After some thread searches, I see that there are a few choices in both digital and analog metering. A few that I have seen are made by Macken (digital DM5 and P-series analog) and by Mahoney (analog).

    For those who have used either (or both) I was wondering if you had some feedback on the accuracy and useability of these meters.
    What reasons would you prefer a digital over an analog?
    How does the synrad PW 250 compare to the macken digitals?
    At Macken, they say both their analog and digital models are accurate within +/- 5%. I'm not sure about the Synrad. Have you found this to be true?
    If I understand correctly, the analog requires a longer pulse to get accurate readings, and doesn't lock in on the highest read. One has to watch it and take note of highest reading.

    Having used neither type, and wanting to purchase one in the near future, does anybody have a preference, and why?

    Thanks!

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  2. #2
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    I prefer digital over analog mainly because I'm a hardware geek (not to mention reading the display is easier, and it can hold the reading). But the analog units are typically good to << a couple of % if you follow the proper procedure, so accuracy is plenty good.


    I picked up a lightly used Power Wizard years back for 50% off, and I'd say it was a good purchase.
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  3. #3
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    I find the PW 250 to be inaccurate at times, unless it's precisely held perfectly to the beam path. It does the job ok, and is probably the best measuring tool for the job, but I wouldn't want anything less accurate. In real life scenarios with a tube, mirrors, casing and everything else in your way, it's hard enough to hold it in the perfect alignment, I can only imagine how hard anything more picky or bulky than the PW 250 would be to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Corbeil View Post
    Until recently, I thought that the only laser power meter available for testing my 80W CO2 was the synrad power wizard 250. They're pretty expensive, so I was looking around for alternatives. After some thread searches, I see that there are a few choices in both digital and analog metering. A few that I have seen are made by Macken (digital DM5 and P-series analog) and by Mahoney (analog).

    For those who have used either (or both) I was wondering if you had some feedback on the accuracy and useability of these meters.
    What reasons would you prefer a digital over an analog?
    How does the synrad PW 250 compare to the macken digitals?
    At Macken, they say both their analog and digital models are accurate within +/- 5%. I'm not sure about the Synrad. Have you found this to be true?
    If I understand correctly, the analog requires a longer pulse to get accurate readings, and doesn't lock in on the highest read. One has to watch it and take note of highest reading.

    Having used neither type, and wanting to purchase one in the near future, does anybody have a preference, and why?

    Thanks!
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the feedback. I did a little further reading after posting, and what I found sort of addresses Keith's point about ease of use, which is a consideration. According to the specs I've read, all of the meters (both analog and digital) have an accuracy factor of +/- 5%. So that's good. It appears the main difference between the analog and digital meters comes down to the amount of time required to obtain an accurate read (60 seconds analog vs 4-5 seconds digital), and the ability of the digital to lock onto the max reading for a period of time. I could definitely see the benefit of a compact digital meter only having to be in the beam path a few seconds vs having to hold an analog steady for a minute in an awkward position. You'd also have to watch the analog display to note the max reading before it started declining. Not a deal breaker, but it is something to consider, especially taking into account how easy or hard it is to get into the beam path on one's own machine.

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  5. #5
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    Rent vs own. How often do you plan on testing your output? Or Maybe Own and then rent it out......new cash flow..



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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sipes View Post
    Rent vs own. How often do you plan on testing your output? Or Maybe Own and then rent it out......new cash flow...
    Yep - Jorlink rents them for $85.00 vs $995 to buy.

  7. #7
    I just saw this Instructable on a lower-cost method of measuring laser output. I have no idea if this works or not since I am by no means a technical expert when it comes to optics and laser output, etc... Maybe some of the experts could chime in out there as to the viability of this method of testing. I do know that it appears to be a potentially dangerous undertaking.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...aser-Engravin/
    Thanks,

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  8. #8
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    Don't waste your money on that one, to hard to hold in the exact place for the exact number of seconds. I sent mine back and eventually got a refund.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    Don't waste your money on that one, to hard to hold in the exact place for the exact number of seconds. I sent mine back and eventually got a refund.
    Bill, did you end up replacing the analog mahoney with something else?

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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    Don't waste your money on that one, to hard to hold in the exact place for the exact number of seconds. I sent mine back and eventually got a refund.
    I haven't looked too closely, but couldn't it be mounted in a jig are placed upright in the path?

  11. #11
    You could put it in a cheap magnetic base from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/multipo...ment-5645.html

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolter Vanderwier View Post
    You could put it in a cheap magnetic base from harbor freight http://www.harborfreight.com/multipo...ment-5645.html
    Not a lot of room to mount and since the Test button was just a one shot deal, you really need to run a Test file at 100% power and low speed for 20-30 seconds. Since I run a home machine shop I have several mag base holders available.
    Never puchased another, but when I ran the new tube to cut 1/4 inch acrylic I could tell, and used that kind of a benchmark.
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  13. #13
    I have one of those Mahoneys.

    Is it accurate? I would not know. Nothing to compare it to. But I believe it is close enough for my needs.

    What I do know is that it is consistent. That means I can measure the laser power coming directly from the tube and then measure after any number of mirrors to see if I am losing anything.

    I can also compare a reading a year later and see if the tube is losing anything with age/hours.

    Measure a new replacement tube compared to that being replaced. Also compare one 80w tube in one machine to another 80w in the other machine.

    I don't have any difficulty holding it in place for the required 30 seconds.

    All up I am not sorry I bought it at all.

  14. #14
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    Helpful feedback, Greg. Thanks.
    Last edited by Don Corbeil; 04-22-2016 at 9:59 AM.

    Don Corbeil

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Holt View Post
    I have one of those Mahoneys.

    Is it accurate? I would not know. Nothing to compare it to. But I believe it is close enough for my needs.

    What I do know is that it is consistent. That means I can measure the laser power coming directly from the tube and then measure after any number of mirrors to see if I am losing anything.

    I can also compare a reading a year later and see if the tube is losing anything with age/hours.

    Measure a new replacement tube compared to that being replaced. Also compare one 80w tube in one machine to another 80w in the other machine.

    I don't have any difficulty holding it in place for the required 30 seconds.

    All up I am not sorry I bought it at all.
    Same here- all you need to do is keep the beam on the black alum target- does not have to be in one spot- it just absorbs the beam and heats up. I wrote a program with a spiral (5mm overall) and slowed the laser down till I had the required number of seconds. You can also develop a 10 sec program at a level that your laser will not actually fire (<9% on mine) to give you a chance to get the the back of a larger laser and get 'set'. It is calibrated when it is built and is way accurate enough- mostly you are using it for a reference.

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