marking walnut

[lowell holmes]

I use prismacolor white pencils. I have tried many including drafting leads. None seem to keep a sharp point for long. Marking gauge or a knife is better if you have good light. ------------
Jim

I agree with James.

[Prashun Patel]

White chalk - or black sharpie - may be fine if you are labeling parts for orientation or rough milling.

But if you are looking to mark for precise cutting, here's why the blue tape is a boon: Once severed on the cut line, it provides the smallest of shoulders against which a chisel or saw will register. For myself, (Ham-hands of the world unite!) this allows me to saw right up to the line, and keeps me perfectly vertical. It works so well for me, it feels like cheating.

[Dave Anderson NH]

I use white chalk. I'll agree that the stick of chalk are imprecise. I use powdered white chalk which allows it to get into the incised line from the marking knife. Lee is correct, it turns transparent when you apply the finish and presents absolutely no problem. I've used this for over 15 years since a friend taught me the trick.

[glenn bradley]

I use prismacolor white pencils. I have tried many including drafting leads. None seem to keep a sharp point for long. Marking gauge or a knife is better if you have good light. I really haven't tried blue tape since Derek started suggesting it a few years ago. It seems to have caught on very well now. I noticed that one of the FWW editors wrote about it recently. May have to try it.
Jim

I agree with James.

I buy Prismacolor white by the box. I can't believe the price in that link though; I paid about 80 cents a pencil and a dozen will last me a few years. For joinery layout, the blue tape is great.

[Lenore Epstein]

Prismacolor Verithin pencils are much harder and hold a point better than the Premiers http://www.dickblick.com/items/20509-1001 Dick Blick stores sell them open stock for about $1.30 apiece or 12 for $10.50 and charges $5 for shipping if you buy online.

The best deal I found online is a box of 12 for $13 (including shipping) on eBay:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/252188437813.

[Jeff Ranck]

This: http://www.amazon.com/Koh-I-Noor-Gio...oor+white+lead

Like the larger lead holders. Yes, you have to sharpen often, but it works great particularly for rough stuff. Blue tape and a marking gauge for the fine work.

[Brian Holcombe]

Best change I made in this dept. was installing a 100w articulating lamp in my shop. I can see a knife mark on gaboon ebony under that lamp.

[Terry O'Donnell]

I use a Gelly Roll pen (Japanese I think) with white ink - available in most stationary/art stores (at least around here). The ink seems to sit on the surface and is easy to scrape off to make corrections.

[John Kananis]

I used to use a hand-sharpened white grease pencil (the type you peel away to reveal more colorant) but the prismacolor pencils just can't be beat - I happened upon them when my wife took up coloring. Do not go with the Crayola brand - they're a joke.

[Steve Voigt]

Best change I made in this dept. was installing a 100w articulating lamp in my shop. I can see a knife mark on gaboon ebony under that lamp.

Yeah, exactly. A strong light you can move solves most of these problems. I don't work with dark woods much, but I was working some cocobolo today, and a regular pencil was fine with the light in the right place.

[Randy Karst]

Just an aside Lee, but I really like your avatar!

[Robert Engel]

I like this. Not as wide a mark as chalk and comes off easily. You can find at fabric stores(Jo Annes).

http://smile.amazon.com/Bohin-91473-...=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Jim

This works well for me. Lead breaks easily, tho.

[bridger berdel]

I stopped using chalk for any surface even near finish dimension after having it show up under the finish of a well sanded surface. obviously your mileage will vary. IIRC, the finish in that case was a waterborne acrylic poly, which may have had something to do with it.