Lathe Tools

[Jim Gallo]

Hi, I am new to turning, but have done a lot of research. I purchased an 8 pc set of Harbor Freight lathe tools to learn to turn and to sharpen.

I was just about ready to build a Wolverine type jig, when I found a Woodcut Tru Grind jig, an Ace 6" grinder, with 5 wheels(Norton/3M Grey/White) for $130. Now I am attemping to sharpen my tools. I setup the Tru Grind on my Harbor Freight 8"wet/6"dry grinder, and I am surprised at how good of a job the wet wheel does, although I don't have anything to compare it to, because I have never sharpened a lathe tool before. But I have sharpened plane irons and chisels, and I definitely know what sharp is.

My problem is, I can't tell the difference between a spindle gouge, bowl gouge, roughing gouge, etc. I'm not even sure if the set included a bowl gouge. I'm trying to sharpen these tools by the standards that are documented in the Tru Grind manual, but need to know what I am sharpening, so I can apply the correct settings. I have attached pics of two of the gouges that I am having trouble identifying.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.
Jim

[Bob Bouis]

A bowl gouge has a deeper flute (the cutout in the middle). It looks more like a deep "U" or "V." A bowl gouge should also have a much sturdier attachment to the handle (i.e., not a thin "tang").

Those are spindle gouges.

ETA: the larger one is definitely intended for roughing. The smaller one also seems to be quite large and may very well be intended for roughing also. I'm not sure why they're supplied together.

[Steve Mellott]

Jim: I notice you live in the Pittsburg area. You should consider joining the Pittsburg woodturning club. I'm sure they can answer all your questions and provide some great assistance which will make your turning a lot more enjoyable.

[Brian Kent]

The roughing gouges (probably 2 - 1" and 3/4") have a U shaped viewed fro the end. They are ONLY for spindles, to make a square piece of wood round. It is never for bowls or end-grain. I have the same set and I am still using these tools, along with many others, 4 years later.

When you want a bowl gouge go to Thompson Lathe Tools and call the owner. He will give you good advice.

[Aaron Craven]

I have the set you're talking about. It does not include a bowl gouge. The two gouges are both spindle roughing gouges (though HF might call the smaller of the two a "spindle gouge"). The set probably also came with a tiny little spindle "detail" gouge that has a thin flute. This is NOT a bowl gouge (it's far too thin for that use). It will take a fingernail grind, but it's small enough that it's difficult to avoid the tip being too pointy.

They're pretty good tools for the price, but I can't understand why they don't include (or at least separately sell) any bowl gouges.

[Reed Gray]

Those gouges would be considered spindle roughing gouges, not bowl gouges. The shallow flute is a 'continental' style, and the deeper flutes one is a standard SRG. Great for roughing out spindles, not good for roughing bowls, and can actually be dangerous if you don't know what to do with them. Do join the local club, huge learning source, and hands on sessions, and mentors.

robo hippy

[Brian Kent]

Jim, if you could post a picture of the set, people here could name them for you in order.

[Thom Sturgill]

I will disagree a bit here. The two gouges are both European (or German) spindle gouges, not Spindle Roughing Gouges. They are normally ground with a rounded end rather than square like a SRG. They are great for long beads and coves, though you may want a regualr spindle gouge, detail gouge, or skew to clean up the end of the cuts. .

A word of warning - I started with a similar set (the read handled set) and the tools were only hardened about 1/2-3/4" from the tip. Once I have reground the standard spindle gouge a few times I found that it would not take an edge. I hope your luck is better, but the HF tools seem to be spotty when it comes to the heat treatments.

[Dane Riley]

I bought the same set a decade ago. I wondered why the tools would not cut cleanly. Recently I tried the file test. The larger tools could all be filed. The smaller ones were harder, but small scrapers are not too useful. The small skew is the only one I use even occasionally. Could buy a Thompson for less.

As a bowl gouge is the only tool with much of a learning curve to sharpen, and this set doesn't include one, I would try the file test. Properly hardened HSS should be too hard to file, the file will just skate over them. If any of them can be filed, I would take them back.

[Tom Giacomo]

The HF sets do not have a bowl gouge in them. I started with a HF set they are good just no bowl gouge.

[Jim Gallo]

Thanks for all the replies. I have gone to a few AAW woodturning guild meetings, and took this set to be identified. A woman there told me what each tool was, and one of the two gouges pictured, she identified as a bowl gouge. I marked the handles with what she told me they were.

I will take a few more pics with the identifying marks on the handles.

She may have made a mistake by saying one is a bowl gouge.

I am really confused with the names and uses of all the woodturning tools.

[Bob Bouis]

Here's a good link:

http://www.hiltonhandcraft.com/Artic...ugeShapes.html

[Brice Rogers]

Thom brought up a good point on the chance that only the end of the tools are hardened. Doing the file test makes sense. In fact, I'm going to check some of my own tools.

If you (the original poster) are the sort who is willing to do some research and experimentation (rather than just replacing your tools), it is possible to re heat-treat the tips if you find them to be unhardened. This is, of course, based on the premise that there is enough carbon in the tools to BE hardened. If the metal alloy has too low of a carbon content, etc., it may not be reasonably practical to harden. There are a number of Youtube videos on backyard heat treating. Although you are unlikely to get the results of the professionals, perhaps it would nevertheless be adequate. Feel free to PM me if you would want some simple advice in this area. I've successfully heat-treated a couple of hands full of tools over the years.

[Aaron Craven]

There are currently two HF sets, and I'm not sure which this is. One is HSS (it costs about $60-70 if I remember correctly). There is a far cheaper set (about $20 I think) that... well, it's just a waste of money. :-/

I've been relatively pleased with mine (they're certainly not Thomspon or Sorby), but I'm not a big fan of the skews... Thinking about upgrading to something a little better. Right now, I mostly wind up using them as negative rake scrapers.

Just picked up a cheap Benjamin's Best bowl gouge from Penn State. So far, I'm pleasantly surprised. It took an edge well and seems to be keeping it well for a budget-priced tool. I need to throw some hickory at it and see just how well it compares to the Sorby gouge I've been using.

[Thom Sturgill]

[QUOTE=Aaron Craven;2557270]There are currently two HF sets, and I'm not sure which this is. One is HSS (it costs about $60-70 if I remember correctly). There is a far cheaper set (about $20 I think) that... well, it's just a waste of money. :-/

/QUOTE]
Actually there are three. The most expensive is the $80 red handled set (I started with it). The Op appears to have the $65 set (blonde handles) and then there is the $19 set of vaguely tool shaped objects.