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Thread: Nova Power grip vs Hurricane jaws

  1. #1
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    Nova Power grip vs Hurricane jaws

    When I get 2 new chucks this summer, I want one to hold a piece that is as long as possible. It appears that PowerGrip Jaws on a SuperNova2 will hold up to 19" length spigots. (Of course I will also use a steady rest - home made for now.) My current G3 chuck with standard jaws is rated at a whopping 2" spigot. I use these for 14" pieces with a steady. I was planning on a Nova Titan with Titan PowerGrips but I do not know if those are actually available.

    If I go with a Hurricane 100 and a Hurricane 125 chuck, are their any jaws available that are made for this longer holding power?
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  2. #2
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    Have you considered a Vicmarc 120 Chuck. I had a G3 and currently have a supernova2 and a Vicmarc 120 direct thread. I prefer the Vicmarc without question. It's bigger, heavier and smoother jaw action.

    just my 2 cents

  3. The HTC-125 chuck has available what is called Extra large "super" dovetail jaws. I would call Steve Fulgoni and discuss your needs with him....he will shoot straight with you, Brian. I have found him to be good to do business with.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Kent View Post
    When I get 2 new chucks this summer, I want one to hold a piece that is as long as possible. It appears that PowerGrip Jaws on a SuperNova2 will hold up to 19" length spigots. (Of course I will also use a steady rest - home made for now.) My current G3 chuck with standard jaws is rated at a whopping 2" spigot. I use these for 14" pieces with a steady. I was planning on a Nova Titan with Titan PowerGrips but I do not know if those are actually available.

    If I go with a Hurricane 100 and a Hurricane 125 chuck, are their any jaws available that are made for this longer holding power?
    If you mean the old Titian jaws with three (vrs 2) screws per jaw. I don't believe these are still made. You might be able to find someone selling them used....
    I find them very nice for gripping large heavy object.
    Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that is more by accident then design.

  5. #5
    Brian...While I'm not familiar with all the chucks/jaws you mentioned, I do won several SN2s and have a set of the power grip jaws. They're my go to set and have never failed me.

  6. #6
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    I can't tell you which would be better.
    The Powergrip jaws for the Titan call for a spigot length of 1.57" for maximum holding. I have Powergrips on my SN2 and I think the interior spigot length is close to the same.
    I also have an Hurricane HTC100. For the HTC125 the "super jaws" are a larger diameter (6.25 vs 4 on my pg's) however, from the specs the total depth of the HTC jaws (including the base) is 3/4" so the max spigot length is probably 1/2 -5/8".
    With nothing at all to back it up I feel the longer spigot would be more important than the diameter in endgrain turning to prevent it being wedged out.
    "I became insane, with long intervals of horrible sanity." - Edgar Allan Poe

  7. #7
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    You are really talking about one connection here. Chuck to wood tenon--probably not the best for a long spindle turning. I fought the same fight years ago--here was my solution that has been foolproof. Set up a dovetail type ring faceplate or a regular faceplate to a glueblock with screws. Two " ring type is plenty for 20" vases due to the metal to metal dovetail connection. Then CA (thick) glue your piece to the GB. Green or wet wood is fine, the great advantage when fastening to green wood. I have probably done 75-100 pieces like this. Use fresh glue or do a test with scraps first. I have tortured this glue joint to distruction several times and the wood breaks before the glue does.

  8. #8
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    That is fascinating, Robert. I had never even heard of this until I read your post. Thank you!
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  9. #9
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    If you google the words, "dovetail type ring faceplate", you'll see images and lot of hits. But I've never figured out what the advantages are. Maybe I'm missing something.

    If I screw the ring to a waste block or to the piece, it seems similar to screwing a faceplate to a waste block or piece. I guess that the difference is that you may tie up a ring rather than a whole faceplate. I suppose that it does allow you to use your chuck. But the disadvantage is that the chuck may have some runout possibly introducing some re-mounting issues.

    Can someone explain the benefits of using the dovetail chuck ring over a faceplate? I know that I must be missing something.

  10. #10
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    A faceplate would be the ultimate in stability and not waste any more wood than a long tenon (less if used with a glue block). I have never used a ring though I've considered buying a few. If you have a mating mark and install/re-install it using that, I would think run-out issues would be minimal.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  11. #11
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    I must be missing something. From the OP I assumed the projects are 14" now, and 19" in the future, spindle orientation turning using a steady rest.
    It may work fine but I have never used glue or screws with endgrain but they both may work well with a steady rest.
    I also assumed there would be not tailstock support as shown in the lower pics on the product page for the powergrips and the Titan chuck.
    http://www.teknatool.com/products/Ch...itan_chuck.htm
    "I became insane, with long intervals of horrible sanity." - Edgar Allan Poe

  12. #12
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    I expect that 14" will be the maximum. The 19" was quoting the specs on the Nova Titan page. I would love to do as much as possible before needing a steady rest, but most of my longer work will be using a steady. I do use a tailstock support when possible but not while hollowing.

    As I plan for a unique opportunity for some new equipment, I am doing my research so that I can have as much excess capacity as possible from each part of the system. I like having overlap in capability rather than stretching the physics of the systems at every point.

    So - will the lathe do all I need and more? Will the chucks do all I need and more? Will the hollowing system have all the reach and control I need and more? If the answer to each question is, "Yes, and more", then I can focus more on the creative art than on fighting with the machines.
    Last edited by Brian Kent; 04-25-2016 at 6:46 PM.
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  13. #13
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    Brice, the ring's advantage is cost, ease of mounting and dismounting(great when dismounting a freshly lacquered piece) to change work pieces. I found a country machinest that made them for 5 dollars but I have bought some factory ones also. Also remounting is perfect--metal to metal. Also a 2&1/2" screw hole pattern is just right for hollow forms and vases. Mounting and dismounting is 4 seconds. Remember there is no removing the 4 jaw chuck as apposed to removing a long threaded faceplate and remounting a chuck.
    Last edited by robert baccus; 04-25-2016 at 11:11 PM.

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