The Essential Oilpot

[Stanley Covington]

Great tutorial!

I'm not sure if I understand one thing, though: do you cut the bamboo off between two nodes (so that it is completely sealed), and then drill a hole in the top to put the rag?

I suppose an alternative would be to just leave one top open and roll up more material, such that it still fits snugly, yes? Or would that soak up too much of the oil?

Anyway, thanks for sharing! These are the sort of tid-bits that are quite helpful -- things/practices that I wouldn't have even known existed, much less think to do or look up!

Luke:

You cut just below the joints in each case, leaving a wide open mouth at the top, and a small cavity at the underside with a rim or foot of bamboo. Just as if you were making a cup.

Stan

[Stanley Covington]

I would like to thank Stanley for sharing also. I use mostly wax for my Western planes and sav my dwindling bottle of oil for my Japaneese chisels.
I do remember reading or hearing that motor oil can make a great protection lube for hand tools.I guess I shouldn't have dismissed it before try it.I don't know if I'll use bamboo but I'm gonna think about something similar.
Heres my coveted bottle I've been nursing for sometime now .

Hate to tell you this Andrew, but it is labeled "Hamono Tsubaki" just like the two bottles I am going to send Brian. Mineral oil.

Regards,

Stan

[Stanley Covington]

You and everyone are very welcome.

Stan

[Robert McNaull]

Thanks for sharing Stanley, I honestly would never have even considered trying this because I would have assumed finishing issues later. Apparently, like in many similar things in my life, I should assume nothing.

Bob

[Phil Mueller]

I'll throw in my thanks too; Thanks Stanley!

I first saw this on a Paul Sellers video as well. I've been using an oil rag on tools for sometime, but you've inspired me to quit procrastinating and make one. Here's what I came up with today...a Planters almond can and old t-shirts. Used the can of 3 in 1 that's been sitting on the shelf for quite a while.

image.jpg

Probably need to trim the top a bit, but good for now.

[Stanley Covington]

I'll throw in my thanks too; Thanks Stanley!

I first saw this on a Paul Sellers video as well. I've been using an oil rag on tools for sometime, but you've inspired me to quit procrastinating and make one. Here's what I came up with today...a Planters almond can and old t-shirts. Used the can of 3 in 1 that's been sitting on the shelf for quite a while.

image.jpg

Probably need to trim the top a bit, but good for now.

Phil:

Congratulations on the new adventure! I think you will like the results.

Just a note on the container. Metal is perfect in every way but one: In the heat of battle when stabbing your chisel into the oilpot and wiping your saw, eventually, if you are as focused on your work as I tend to be, you will stab the edge of the metal container with your chisel, or wipe the metal rim over your sawteeth, dulling them. Not fatal, but not ideal either.

On the other hand, you may have superhuman powers of focus and hand-eye coordination, and leap tall buildings in a single bound!

Good luck.

Stan

[Andrew Hughes]

Ya i figured it out no problem.I probably paid .50 for the oil and 12.50 for the cool bottle.I guess i will fill it with regular mineral oil,it just won't be the same now all the magic is gone.

[Phil Mueller]

Me? Accidentally jam a chisel into the metal? Scrape a plane iron?
Absolutely possible! I did take to heart your original suggestion for something non-metal. I'll be looking out for a piece of bamboo for sure.

[ken hatch]

Stan,

Thanks for the thread, I'm a little surprised at the number of folks with out some convenient way to oil or 'slick" their tools. I will go back and forth between the oil box and canning wax for my metal planes and saws, using which ever is at hand. Seldom will an iron not be oiled after sharpening. I have to say I never thought about oiling the woodies.

Anyway I cleaned up my oil box to get it ready for its closeup. This one has been on my bench for a number of years and works well. It was a thirsty sucker when first built but now I can't remember the last time I charged the oil. I'm on the lookout for a good hunk of Bamboo, I really like the way your oil box looks, I expect it is very handy more so than the box I'm currently using. Besides somewhere in the "tool room" there is a small can of Cashew lacquer that needs a mission, if I can just find it.



ken

[Stanley Covington]

Ken

I have read from multiple sources about how tallow (rendered beef or mutton fat) was once used in Europe and the Americas. I think one post in this thread linked to Mr Schwarz'e blog about a tallow pot on the Rubou benches. I have also read that it is the hardened remnants of accumulated tallow that forms the black grunge found on many antique planes. So it seems lubing planes has an old history in the West too.

Stan

[Lenore Epstein]

You know, it's so dry here that none of my tools have rusted, even after sharpening, unless I've thoughtlessly left them in contact with something wet that won't itself dry quickly, so I decided the need to oil everything in sight only really applied to high-humidity woodworkers (I do wax my plane soles and lightly oil their innards just because I can't see them, but that's about it). It just never occurred to me that oil would have a substantial lubricating effect between wood and the cutting edge, but now I'm going to oil up a bit of cloth so I can see how much difference it makes in performance.

No motor oil for me, though; I hate the odor! I've been using a little bottle of Hoppe's gun oil I bought on a whim because the little orange bottle reminds me of firearms training I had in another lifetime ever so long ago. If I really take to this oil thing I might have to find me a bigger bottle.

[Stanley Covington]

No motor oil for me, though; I hate the odor! I've been using a little bottle of Hoppe's gun oil I bought on a whim because the little orange bottle reminds me of firearms training I had in another lifetime ever so long ago. If I really take to this oil thing I might have to find me a bigger bottle.

Wow! Hoppes! If they made an aftershave I would use it!

Some synthetic motor oils smell really bad. They add zinc and other metals to increase shear performance and to cushion bearings. Take a sniff of Mobile 1 before you condemn them all. Not as good as Hoppes, but not repulsive IMO.

Stan

[Lenore Epstein]

Take a sniff of Mobile 1 before you condemn them all. Not as good as Hoppes, but not repulsive IMO

Made me laugh! The fact that carrying and maintaining a gun came during a special period in my life means a whiff of gunpowder or gun oil makes this Yankee Democrat get all moon-eyed. That's not nearly as classy as Proust's madeleines, but then again, neither am I.

Mobile 1 is cheaper, though, so if it passes the sniff test (I'm working in my dining room, after all) I could make it my everyday oil and save the Hoppes for, erm, special occasions?

[Phil Mueller]

Love Hoppes myself, but due to the toxicity and hazardous/flammable nature, can't even find it in gun stores around here anymore. Most have gone to a synthetic cleaner and oil called M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and M-Pro 7 Gun Oil with LPX.

According to the manufacturer these products are odorless, non-toxic, non-hazardous, biodegradable, non-flammable and environmentally safe. The only reference to ingredients is "Combines high quality synthetic oils and LPX additives"
They claim LPX has the lowest known friction coefficient.

Since it's all I can find, I use it for my firearms and it does clean and lubricate well. At the price though, not something I wanted to use for the oil pot.

Guy at the store said I could clean guns on the kitchen table and then eat off of it without worry. I think I'll pass on that. Wouldn't make LOML very happy.

[Stanley Covington]

Love Hoppes myself, but due to the toxicity and hazardous/flammable nature, can't even find it in gun stores around here anymore. Most have gone to a synthetic cleaner and oil called M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner and M-Pro 7 Gun Oil with LPX.

According to the manufacturer these products are odorless, non-toxic, non-hazardous, biodegradable, non-flammable and environmentally safe. The only reference to ingredients is "Combines high quality synthetic oils and LPX additives"
They claim LPX has the lowest known friction coefficient.

Since it's all I can find, I use it for my firearms and it does clean and lubricate well. At the price though, not something I wanted to use for the oil pot.

Guy at the store said I could clean guns on the kitchen table and then eat off of it without worry. I think I'll pass on that. Wouldn't make LOML very happy.

M-Pro 7 cleaner is a very old formula used for several hundred years for cleaning pen nibs. It dissolves carbon and powder fouling exceptionally well. But Hoppes No. 9 is still more manly.

Dollars to donuts their gun oil is a repackaged product from some other industry.

Stan

Stan