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Thread: The Essential Oilpot

  1. #106
    I have been using an oil pot for the past week. I am using a mixture of synthetic oils because that's what I had on hand.

    I haven't noticed a big difference in chisels, but have really noticed a difference on my planes. I am working on a white oak park bench and the oil has really made planing the end grain quite easy. I must say I like the oil vs the wax, because it's very easy to get coverage.

  2. Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I have been using an oil pot for the past week. I am using a mixture of synthetic oils because that's what I had on hand.

    I haven't noticed a big difference in chisels, but have really noticed a difference on my planes. I am working on a white oak park bench and the oil has really made planing the end grain quite easy. I must say I like the oil vs the wax, because it's very easy to get coverage.
    I normally use a mixture of oil and beeswax. Easy to apply, the wax makes it longer lasting than oil alone, the oil makes the wax easier to apply. To get them mixed, I use a small amount of mineral spirits to soften the wax to a mixing consistency. It evaporates over time with no discernible effect on performance. While it's still soft (newly mixed) I saturate a smallish microfiber towel, roll it up tightly and put it a matching oil pot container. From time to time, I pull the towel our, re-roll it to give a fresh, clean top and put it back into the pot. Rub it on a tool, let it stand ~5 minutes and buff with a clean dry cloth. Works a charm, good for about half-a-dozen sharpenings before it's time to reapply for either a chisel or a plane blade.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    As an a side note; If you want to make your own traditional furniture polish using beeswax; don't mix it with ordinary mineral spirits; use pure gum turpentine; it doesn't evaporate as quickly; allowing greater time for the mix to remain soluble resulting in a deeper penetration within the wood surface. Refer to msds recommendations when using pure gum turpentine. http://www.artspectrum.com.au/old/ms..._gum-turps.pdf



    In the UK, Mineral Spirit is commonly referred to as "White Spirit".

    http://cambridgetraditionalproducts....rniture-polish
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-03-2016 at 7:43 AM.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill McNiel View Post
    For those interested in having a traditional Japanese Oil Pot, I have access to Bamboo (approx 3 1/4" OD). If 10 or so Creekers want one I will gladly provide the Bamboo for the price of shipping, probably by USPS?
    Bill,

    I'd like to take you up on this, especially if anyone else is interested. Has anyone shown interest?

    Cheers
    Brian
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  5. #110
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Bill,

    I'd like to take you up on this, especially if anyone else is interested. Has anyone shown interest?

    Cheers
    Brian
    I assumed the offer was to sent the pieces to a single destination for a group of people, rather than to ship pieces to different destinations. If that's not the case I'd love to get in on the action too.

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
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    Turpentine(the REAL STUFF,WHICH IS GETTING VERY HARD TO FIND),and says "From the living pine" on the can,will harden into a hard film on your tools. I strongly recommend that you DO NOT use it on your furniture polish. If you do,every time you rub it on,you're going to leave another layer of hardened turpentine.

    Most of the "turpentine" you can get these days,is not true turpentine as gotten in the old fashioned way from trees carefully slashed. It is made from ground up stumps distilled into some kind of hydrocarbon that is NOT the same as the real stuff. doesn't smell the same. And,it won't turn into turpene resin if you bubble air through it. I used to make that up for varnish making. I can tell the real stuff by smell,but have spent years making varnish,and I know the sharp,distinctive smell of real turpentine. You'll probably only find little bottles of it in artist's supply stores,and pay a very high price for the amount you'll get.

    Real turpentine was excluded from the museum's paint shop because it is so bad to cause arthritis in gotten on the hands. I can't tell you how many times I got it on myself when I was younger(and turps was REAL!) I remember my mother putting a little turpentine in the cat's milk to rid him of worms,back in the early 50's. Poor animal. It probably burned in his guts.
    Last edited by george wilson; 05-03-2016 at 8:47 AM.

  7. #112
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    Oct 2010
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    Australia
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    Refer to msds recommendations when using pure gum turpentine. http://www.artspectrum.com.au/old/ms..._gum-turps.pdf

  8. #113
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Williamsburg,Va.
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    Yes,rather bad stuff to mess with. I see the MSDS does not mention the arthritis part. But,that is why our paint shop stopped using it,using paint thinner instead.

    To tell the truth,I don't want a lot of paint thinner on my hands either. They are already stiff enough. I don't trust that stuff either. But,this last part is just my personal feeling.

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Boynton Beach FL
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    97
    Hello all-

    First post in a LONG time.

    We moved to south Florida about 2 years ago. So rust is a real problem. To be exact, I have to look over my steel tools every day or two. And every day or two I find more rust even though I coat everything with Jajoba or camellia oil (at ridiculous prices). The rust comes back. Especially on my LN planes. Even my Bad Axe saws have small corrosion spots that I can't explain. Even my Starrett rules got some "coating" on them. I used a dremel with a gray buffer on them (horror of horrors) to clean them up and they now look like factory.

    I bought some burgundy colored scotchbrite pads (LN recommended) and it gets the rust off quickly enough, but it's not the path I want to take.

    So, I made a can with the rags that Paul Sellers recommended. I used 3 in 1 oil and seem to be refilling it all the time. It's probably a combination of the hot weather and humidity (although at this point, I hardly notice either anymore).

    I will try the Mobil 1 oil and see if that works better (lasts longer without refill).

    I usually use some craft wax that my wife bought me years ago to lube the soles of my planes and it does the trick.

    Long and short, my son recommended that I use "FrogLube" on my firearms to clean and rust proof them. So I bought some and applied to a sample Bad Axe saw and an LN plane (requires heating the tool with a hair drier -- not too hot). The FrogLube melts right in and smells great -- not just good -- great. So far the tools have remained rust and corrosion free. My Starretts look factory fresh.

    That was too much information, but rust on corrosion are more of a problem here than I would have imagined.

  10. #115
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Livonia, Michigan
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Yes,CASTOR OIL was THE OIL used in WWI in rotary engined aircraft. Those engines spun around with the propeller to enhance their cooling,and issued a great deal of oil in the smoke they made. It was a problem for the pilots back then,because they inhaled a daily dose of castor oil. I don't think I need to tell you what castor oil does to the digestive tract!!...
    When I was a teen I read a book called Iron Men With Wooden Wings, about the WWI pilots. It mentioned castor oil being used and the effects on the pilots. Not all the bombs dropped one the enemy came from the armory!

    George is correct about the engine block spinning to aid in cooling but left out the part of what it did to the handling. A turn in one direction was fine, the same maneuver in the other direction could cause an unrecoverable spin. IIRC the Sopwith Camel could easily crash on takeoff with an inexperienced pilot because of all that rotating mass.

    The sudden altitude changes also caused the pilot's eardrums to rupture. In those pre-penicillin days that was no laughing matter. Those pilots had it rough!

    Oh, and I use wax on my planes (old block of downhill ski wax) but hadn't tried it on other tools. I'll have to give it a try.

    -Tom

  11. #116
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    As an a side note; If you want to make your own traditional furniture polish using beeswax; don't mix it with ordinary mineral spirits; use pure gum turpentine; it doesn't evaporate as quickly; allowing greater time for the mix to remain soluble resulting in a deeper penetration within the wood surface. Refer to msds recommendations when using pure gum turpentine. http://www.artspectrum.com.au/old/ms..._gum-turps.pdf





    http://cambridgetraditionalproducts....rniture-polish

    Another option, if you can afford it, is spike oil. (oil of lavender.) It dissolves even better than turps, and (most importantly) is not dangerous or annoying to breathe. In fact, it smells lovely. The mom uses this for her oil painting, instead of triple-rectified turps.


    it 'aint cheap, though.

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