Jointer Restoration

[Michael Alu]

I've been in the market for a jointer and found this little 6" Grizzly G1182 on Craigslist and picked it up for $100. Once I got it home I got to work. Now this is by no means a professional restoration. I wanted to remove all the rust and bring this up to a functioning machine while giving it some protection. Pretty happy with the way it turned out.

Jointer Before.JPGHere is the jointer before. (I know I'm bad about taking pictures)

Jointer After.JPGHere it is after I put it all back together. (Again I'm terrible at pictures)


All I have left to do is set the knives to the proper height. Hence the blade guard being removed. I will attempt setting them tonight. I wish this cutter head had jack screws instead of springs. For the guys with cutter heads only having springs are there any tips/tricks to getting them to move to the proper height? Without the jack screws it seems like it will be kind of tricky to get them at the proper due to spring tension pushing up on the knives. I do have a One Way multi gauge and plan to use this to set them.

[Tom M King]

I take any jack screws or springs out. I tighten the gib just enough to hold the knife in place but still allow it to be slid up or down. I use a strip of Boxwood about 3/16" thick and an inch or two wide, and maybe 6 or 8 inches long. With the wrench on a screw the head is rotated back and forth. The strip of wood pushes the knife down to level with the outfeed table over the outter screws. I use a little bent pick to pry the knife back up if it needs it in the process. When you can feel it brushing the wood, but not pushing the wood up, tighten those two screws. Keeping rotating back and forth until it's just right over those two screws.

When they are tight and the knife height is right over the two outter screws, tighten the other screws. I can set a knife like this in less than 30 seconds, but I've done it many times. When you have all knives installed, take the tiniest pass off the bottom of the wood strip, so it's ready for next time. Boxwood is about three times as hard as Hard Maple. Hard Maple does work, but it gets more abuse from this job, and doesn't transfer the feel of the knife brushing the wood as well as the Boxwood. You can feel less than a thousandth of an inch.

I have dial indicators, and started out using one for this job, but it takes much longer, and I can't get a knife set any better with one.

[Erik Loza]

If you find that cutterhead too much of a hassle, you could probably get a Byrd Shelix head for that machine for less than $500. Maybe some food for thought. Nice resto, thanks for sharing.

Erik

[Mel Fulks]

My method is not identical to Tom's ,but I agree the springs and and Jack screws are useless.

[Michael Alu]

After about an hour of playing around with it. I have managed to get the knives set. They are anywhere from .001 to .0015 of an inch from the outfeed table. In all my research that is actually where I want them to be. Slightly proud of the outfeed table. I agree Mel and Tom, the springs are useless. Next time I change them I will remove them. Thanks for the input guys.

[Tom M King]

That should work fine, and your time setting them will probably at least be cut in half next time.

[Matt Day]

If you really want the top to be smooth and shine, using an angle grinder and a cup wheel, put a scotch brite pad on it and go to town. Cleans up amazingly very quickly.