Is an 8" jointer enough?

[Steven Wayne]

I have a Minimax sliding table saw on order, so I'm only concerned with face jointing. I have some rough sawn lumber on hand that's wider than 8" and it got me questioning my plan up to this point - Byrd cutterhead in my green era Powermatic 8" jointer. Machine is in good condition, but will either need a single phase motor or a VFD.. Well.. Those two things add up quite a bit.. So, I'm questioning this plan before I spend the money on the old 8". Maybe I should be putting those funds toward a wider machine?

What say you guys? Thanks in advance!

[Neil Gaskin]

The real answer I believe depends on how and what you work. With that said we bought an 8 in powermatic HH last year and I've caught myself at least a hand full of time wishing for more width. If I could go back I'd at least go 12". So if it fits the budget go for it. Seldom do we think. " man that I've got too much machine"

[eugene thomas]

if your primary use for the jointer will be face jointing would get least 12" jointer. in end you will want to replace the 8" jointer anyway.

[Cary Falk]

If you are already thinking about it I would definitely do it before you purchase the Byrd. I jumped up to an 8" when I wanted a Byrd. I am a hobbyist so an 8" works fine for the majority of my needs.

[Robert Engel]

I have an 8" wish I had a 12 but going from 8 to 12 basically triples the price of a jointer not in the budget for most hobbyists.

I envy you if you have finances to do that, then do it.

[Hoang N Nguyen]

I'm in the same boat. I have a powermatic 60hh (8") and wish I had bigger at times. The next jump up would have cost waaaaaay too much for a hobbyist and I didn't want a combo machine. For the most part, I'm happy with my 8" jointer and just make due with what I have. I plan my work around it and rip down boards wider than 8". You can also make a planer sled if you decide you want to joint wider boards than your jointer can handle. Just too much work for me and ripping down boards work just fine.

[David Kumm]

DSCN1841.jpg Here is a 12" oliver. 96" tables, guard that swings out of the way so you can joint a 24" board. Would need a vfd to run but old jointers are a very good option in the 12" size and the tables are ground with more precision than most new. Dave

[Steven Wayne]

I see Crescent (and other brand) 12" three leg jointers for sale from time to time in the < $2k price range. That is what got me thinking putting money into the old 8" may not be the best long term choice. I have an older (Taiwan) Jet four post 20" planer with a Shelix head.

[pat warner]

In my view, wide sticks are full of growth stress and should be ripped (bandsawn) down to a manageable size before jointing.
If the glue line is the issue, re-assembly as ripped, usually makes the joint invisible on the face.
Moreover, do you have the strength to manage an 8-12" wide stick?
A 6-8/4 10" x 8' stick can weigh 35+ pounds. Can you hold a stick down on the table, end to end, with enough control to flatten it?
And if you can, how much of it is left?

[David Kumm]

I have jointers in every size up to and including 24". 16" is favorite with 12" as second choice. When I buy good kiln dried hardwood it has always got boards wider than 8" and I've yet to feel the need to rip and reglue. For paint grade work I buy maple glueups that range from 14-24" wide. Saves a huge amount of time, especially when making a lot of drawers and doors. Dave

[John Lanciani]

The only regret that I have with my 16" J/P is that it isn't 20" wide. No ripping, no planer sleds, no workarounds. If you have the space and the $$ you will never regret getting the widest possible jointer that you can.

[John TenEyck]

Personally, I would not throw any money at an 8" jointer when I could find a used machine one for not all that much. I recently bought a MiniMax FS35 (14") combo machine for a little over $2000. I had a 10" Inca and the MiniMax looked like an aircraft carrier to me when I first got it into my shop. You know what? It's not too big. Lots of small pro shops make due with an 8" jointer, but most of them don't use wide lumber. If you have any desire to make cabinets, etc. with wide stock, go big. Or just stick with what you have, w/o the Byrd head. IMHO, there is much less compelling reason to put a spiral head on a jointer than a combo machine or planer. And new is nice, but the best value is in used equipment. If I hadn't found the used MiniMax I'd still be using my Inca (which I also bought used). As mentioned above, you can find used Olivers, Crescents, etc. in the 12" range for less than $1000. Even if you put another $1000 into it you have a machine that will last another lifetime, and you'll be able to sell it for about what you paid for it if you choose to.

As for not being able to handle large stock - it hasn't been a problem for me and I'm not a big or strong guy. Wide jointers have pretty long tables. I've jointed 7' boards 12" wide on my MiniMax with no trouble. Sure, they are heavy getting them on and off the tables, but while you are pushing it over the cutterhead it takes no real effort; far less than it took for me to joint a 10" board on my short bed Inca.

John

[Charles Taylor]

As mentioned above, you can find used Olivers, Crescents, etc. in the 12" range for less than $1000. Even if you put another $1000 into it you have a machine that will last another lifetime, and you'll be able to sell it for about what you paid for it if you choose to.

+1. It may take some patience and persistence to find one, but it's worthwhile.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

I rarely buy or use boards wider than 8". That said, I use my 12" MM combo all the time. Changed out to Byrd Helical Head and never going back.

[Ben Rivel]

My thinking has been that 12" is as narrow as Id go for a jointer and/or planer, and helical head was a must.