Skew Recommendations

[George Farra]

Hi All,

I would like to add a skew to my small arsenal of turning tools. I understand that a skew is extremely versatile once mastered.

I see that 2 types are offered....oval and straight. From my readings it seems that the oval is easier to control for a newbie, like myself, although more difficult to sharpen. I sharpen using a WS3000 and Tormek jigs, so in my case I maybe equipped to overcome any difficulties.

My turnings so far have been small in nature and mostly spindle type orientations.....bottle stoppers, tool handles, coffee scoops, bottle openers, and tea light holders.

In which areas do these tools excel?? I can see how it maybe easier to turn a bead with the oval tool, but the square tool would handle turning a perfect cylinder since the square will rest firmly on the tool rest. I see what I am doing to myself....making the argument to buy both...LOL!!!

I am looking at either Wood River or Sorby, both offered via Woodcraft and both on sale right now.

Recommendations are appreciated:

Oval or Square?
3/4" or 1"?

Thank you

George

[Brice Rogers]

Yes, the skew is a versatile tool.

I recommend that you get on youtube and look at some of the videos on using the skew.

Most beginners use the skew as a scraper but that sometimes leads to some tear out and more sanding. But with practice, it can produce excellent finishes when used in a shear mode on small diameter things (e.g., ~ 3 inch diameter) like spindles. I've learned (painfully) that it is hard to control skew shear cuts on larger bowls. Also, the skew is very good to make beads or beading. The process is pretty easy to master.

I think that the youtube videos will give you a lot of helpful hints on how to use it in the shear mode and for doing beading.

[Geoff Whaling]

George,

First off, look up Allan Batty's excellent video on spindle turning - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfeLAHQSbqk Allan is a true master, his technique is exemplary and proven from many decades as a professional spindle turner.

Skew chisels come in all sorts of profiles, grinds with varying included angle and bevel angles. A pretty basic rule - pointy angles for softwoods, blunt angles for hardwoods - that is the angle between the bevels or the included angle. The bevel angle also makes quite a difference to presentation angle of the skew in use, so more a convenience or ease of use feature. The profile, oval or rectangular, is a bit similar to the U or V shaped flutes discussions with bowl gouges - they have there devotees. However a rectangular skew will not suffer the harmonic vibration that oval skews suffer in some applications..

The next issue is rolled or square edges on the tool steel for rectangular profiles. Rolled edges make rolling a bead with a skew and arcing cuts for larger spindle elements smoother to turn with either heel (short point) and toe (long point). Square edges should be "softened" i.e. a small arris taken off the tool steel edge so it will not damage the tool rest and to make it slide easily across the tool rest for Vee cuts etc. Only Hamlets come with the RE both sides, most others including the Thompsons only have the RE on the heel (short point) side if at all. Oval skews require a smooth radiused edge.

Then the bevel edge profile or shape - angled across but with a straight edge, or partially arced with a straight portion (i.e. an Allan Lacer skew) or a fully radiused edge as is common on many oval skews. Again many devotees to particular grind shapes.

Tool steel – most are M2 but there is quite a range in hardness in M2 steels depending on the hardening process used; or higher performing tool steels like 2030 / 2060 (Hamlet etc) and V10 / V15 (Glaser, Thompson etc) etc. The 2030 / V10’s are more available now at reasonable prices and will perform “longer” than M2 in most applications because the CPM particle steel technology produces a harder more consistent / homogeneous steel. M2 is fine, V10 is better, stick with the better brands as they are more consistent / reliable in quality control of hardening. Don’t discount quality M2 tools from manufacturers like P&N, Crown, Henry Taylor, Hamlet etc. http://woodturninglearn.net/articles/ToolSteel.pdf

Lastly the size and heft – 1/2'” is good for small diameter spindle work, ¾” to me is an in between compromise that does neither small or large work well until I used the much thicker tool steel Thompson skews – now it’s a favourite size ; then 1” which is a real work horse; then larger if you dare or make larger architectural pieces, newel posts etc. I personally like a skew with heft i.e. some weight and meat in the blank, as it performs better on my style of work. Rectangular blanks come in varying thicknesses for any given width, Thompson's are the thickest I have found and get my recommendation on that feature alone, the V10 is a bonus.

I am more a rectangular skew advocate with radiused edges of both the heel (short point) and toe (long point) and with a conservative blunt bevel angle with a straight bevel edge and a hefty tool steel blank - only because after much trialing that combination suits the hardwood timbers I turn and the projects I like to make. Most of my skews are Hamlets in M2 & 2030 and lately Thompson’s V10 tools that I have modified to RE both sides.

For a novice the conventional wisdom is to start with a conventional bevel angle and skewed edge on a rectangular skew that has a straight grind then progress to the other grind shapes or profiles as skills improve. This allows the student / novice to better understand which part of the edge is actually cutting – this aspect is very important so pay close attention to what Allan Batty explains in his video – and take note of his preference for skew profiles.

As a starter I would suggest a 1" rectangular skew with RE's both sides for the work you described however a 3/4" Thompson will excel on those projects.

Doc Green, also has a good balanced view on skews http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/articles.html#Skew

[Thom Sturgill]

I'm going to agree with Geoff's recommendation for the Thompson skew. I have a Hamlet (?) skew ground like Alan Lacer sells. I believe Hamlet makes his. That is 1 1/4" wide and I love it. I bought a 3/4" Thompson and ground it similar and it is now my go to for most things. I also have a round skew (3/8" V10 steel) I ground for my miniatures. Not as easy to handle, but stiff and small enough to get into tight spaces. I have never tried an Oval skew. My next addition will be a 1/2" skew - Thompson since D-Way does not sell a 1/2".

[Quinn McCarthy]

goertge.

I have 2 skew chisels I use all of the time. My first was a Sorby 1 3/8"oval and I really like the oval shapre. i have a Alan Lacer 1 1/8" that I turned the handle for. I bought it from him at a turning show. I am too affraid to scrapen ALan's skew I have been honing it honing good enough for it to work. I really like the mass of the tool and handle combo. I made it from jatoba.\ and has pperfect balance in my hand. I bought a DVD from Alen on sharpening but I am a scardy cat. I really like the rounded blade too.

Hope that helps.

Quinn

[Doug Ladendorf]

I have to agree with Geoff too. I struggled with the oval skew and a 1/2" flat skew as a learner. I got the Thompson 1" skew and felt the difference right away. For the smaller work you do the 3/4" sounds ideal. For just a bit more than the Sorby you could get the Thompson skew and make your own handle. Then you have a more substantial tool and much better steel.

Doug

[George Farra]

thank you all. i will definately check out the web resources listed above as well as thompson's turning tools

I'm sure i will have a few more questions as i explore, learn, and eventually put to use

regards

George

[Frank Drew]

The skew is a wonderful tool and I've used straight and curved cutting edge, flat, oval and round shaft, flat and hollow ground bevels; they all can produce good results but practice, practice, practice is the key to any skill and the skew takes more practice than some other turning tools, IMO. Get some 2x2, 3x3, etc. scrap wood pieces in various lengths, mount them between centers and have at it; turn as many beads and balls as you can in a session. Do it a lot until you get good at it (like anything else).

FWIW, I don't use a skew for faceplate or bowl work.

I agree about the usefulness of watching videos to learn skew technique.

[Michael Schneider]

George,

I have only been turning for a couple of months. I went through a similar process.

Can you go to a club turning session and borrow some? There are many good skews, and much if it will be a personal choice.

Some to look for:

1) D-WAY - very nice steel, highly polished, toe edges broken, curved grind
2) Thompson - very nice steel, toe edges broken, straight grind
3) Carter and Son - grind from a round piece of still (gouge stock) - very nice steel, highly polished, lots of mass because of the round base, curved grind
4) sorby oval - good steel, but does not match above brands for time between sharpening, need jig to sharpen (so it does not roll), straight grind, lightweight

I like heavier skews, but that is very personal, as I get better, that may change. The Oval skews is much lighter than the others. I really like the d-way, and the Carter is very unique (ground from gouge stock). Thompson is never money badly spent.

have fun, hopefully you can get your hands on some and try them out.

Michael

[Geoff Whaling]

George,

As you already have the Tormek gear the SVS 50 jig is ideal for sharpening skews and will accommodate flat & oval skews. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jG4QU_HQ-AU

I'm not sure why turners are so afraid of a skew, it is simply another tool that has vices like any other tool if not sharpened to suit the woods being turned or presented to the work correctly. The wrong grind on a bowl gouge can be just as scary.

Most of the problems new users of a skew encounter can be attributed to,

• a very fine included angle between the bevels (i.e. very pointy) which makes them twitchy to use and sensitive to very small changes in presentation angle;

• and in planing cuts by not presenting the tool with the handle low and the cutting edge high then slowly drawing the tool down onto the work piece to "pick up the edge" while slowly raising the handle.

It is hard to convey the naunces of using a skew, how small changes in presentation angle/s can make a big difference in cutting performance, from confused grain tear out to super smooth cut with a small rotation/s of the tool.

The only thing I can think of to explain it is that it is a bit like roll, pitch and yaw. Pitch is handle low or high; roll is the vertical angle of the cutting edge relative to the tool rest horizontal plane; and yaw the horizontal angle of the centreline of the tool relative to work piece / lathe centreline.

I am always modifying the roll, pitch, yaw of a skew cut to find the optimal cutting angle and at times it will change in the one tool pass because I know that there is confused grain or a knot in one area of the planing cut.

Jon Siegel has a few good ideas about practicing with a skew, far better than rolling beads / coves on a story stick. You get far more practice with less practice material being consumed. http://www.bigtreetools.com/articles...o-practice.pdf

[John Solie]

I have the Sorby 3/4" rounded skew and used it quite a bit for making pens. The trouble with it was that I noticed a harmonic while I was using it - probably due to less material on the outer edges. I saved up a few shekels and picked up a Thompson. No more harmonic, and it works sooo nice. I don't think I've touched the Sorby since. I even used the Thompson unhandled to make the handle for it. That was kind of rough, but I managed.