What to put on the bottom of my workbench legs??

[Mark Gibney]

I've googled this for a few days and can't find anything - so apologies if this comes up a lot - But what should I put on the bottom of my workbench legs?

They are 3" x 5" douglas fir, and the bench will sit on a concrete floor. There's low humidity here in Los Angeles, if that counts for anything, but I imagine it's not ideal to have endgrain sitting on concrete.

I have a fair bit of thick leather scrap, and cork flooring offcuts - any good? or I could make a square hardwood box that fits over the end of each leg?

I want to avoid ripping whatever I use if I have to shuffle the bench around now and again.

thank you.

[Cody Colston]

I would put a slight chamfer around the leg bottoms to prevent chip-out. If moisture is a concern, seal the leg bottoms with epoxy.

[Mark Blatter]

I wanted to raise my bench up a bit anyway, so I added a piece of 2x6 onto each end, connecting the front and back legs together. Each 2x6 lays flat and is screwed into the bottoms of the legs. I have no fears of dragging it around and the extra 1.5" makes it easier to work on. You could easily use 2x4 as well.

[Brian Tymchak]

Although I sealed the leg ends on both my workbench and new miter saw bench with TBIII, I used these composite shims from Home Depot to level a new miter saw bench I just finished. They not only provided a barrier against moisture but they also level, which I needed in my basement shop. I found them a little difficult to work with as they don't just score and snap as easy as a typical cedar shim would. They also tend to slide a bit against each other as one side is smooth. I ended up setting the shims I needed and then cut the scrap off using an old hand saw that I keep just for jobs like that could damage the saw.

Maybe one of these days when I'm feeling extra strong, I'll go back and replace the cedar shims under the work bench with the composites. But I don't see that happening anytime soon...

[glenn bradley]

I'm in SoCal and setting on concrete too. I do this:

TNNW (51).jpg . TNNW (54).jpg

T-nuts and elevator bolts. The t-nut is recessed a bit and the elevator bolt threads screw into a 3" hole sized for a snug fit. This is the second bench that I have used this method on and neither have ever budged under stress.

[Thomas Hotchkin]

My work bench sits on a concrete floor also. I used a small square of asphalt roofing shingle under each leg as shim to get the base level, then installed the top.

[John Lankers]

Hockey Pucks?

[John T Barker]

Mine sits on the concrete floor as is. SE Pa., humid as a Mississippi swamp.

[vince dale]

Hockey Pucks?

Good Ole Canadian Boy!

[Allan Speers]

Mine are directly on the concrete as well.

- However, I treated my entire garage floor with chemicals to stop water vapor. (I used the Radonseal products, but there are other good choices as well.) I cannot recommend this highly enough, as it saves your tools and cuts down dramatically of dehumidification costs.

[fred woltersdorf]

I bought a plastic cutting board from the dollar store about 1/2" thick and cut pieces to match the legs and fastened with ss screws.

[Robert Engel]

+1 on the chamfer.

If the floor is uneven I would just use shims and hot melt glue them to the bottom rather than adjustable feet.

[Rich Riddle]

I get a bit of moisture from time to time so I use Azek cut to fit on the bottom. I simply glue them on there.

[Phil Stone]

I made a chamfer all the way around each leg, then taped around the top of each chamfer, and coated the entire foot with epoxy.

[Prashun Patel]

I have sheets of rubber flooring (recycled tires) that I epoxy onto the bottoms. Less for moisture wicking, more for friction and stability.