What to put on the bottom of my workbench legs??

[Jon Endres]

I like the idea of something non-skid. Prashun's idea of the rubber flooring would make a heavy bench impossible to slide across the floor.

[Prashun Patel]

I wish. In the end, sawdust turns out to be a pernicious, persistent, and effective lubricant.

[Stew Hagerty]

I have sheets of rubber flooring (recycled tires) that I epoxy onto the bottoms. Less for moisture wicking, more for friction and stability.

Prashun, I think you just solved a problem for me! A friction & stability problem with complications.

[Robert Payne]

I have used 3/8" carriage bolts screwed into T-nuts centered in the bottoms of the legs. They provide leveling and very adequate support. Here is a significant improvement on them that provide a good cushion as well.

[Tom Giacomo]

I drill and install lag screws 3/8 or 1/2 inch into the bottom, keeps legs off floor and can act to level bench.

[Mark Gibney]

Lot of good suggestions here. I went with number one - chamfered the leg ends and coated the bottom with epoxy.

I've used the T-nut and bolt levelers on other workstations and I like them, but my shop is narrow enough that I'll have to shove the bench out of the way to get a big finished piece out, the thought of the nails-on-a-blackboard screech from bolt heads dragging on concrete doesn't appeal.

And as a couple of others said, Prashun is onto something here with the non-skid rubber.

[Charles Lent]

Instead of bolts and T Nuts for some of my lighter uses, like Scroll saw stands, outfeed table legs, etc. I used Pinball Game feet. You can get them for a very reasonable price here, but it helps to buy a bunch and save on the shipping. www.pbresource.com I don't know how heavy your bench is, but these will hold 250 lbs each with no problems. They aren't non-skid, but the shape makes them floor friendly and great for use on my smaller floor stand tools like my DeWalt scroll saw that came with a hole in the bottoms of the legs for feet, but no feet were supplied. The leg holes are large, so I just used flat washers and nuts above and below the hole. The 3" threaded post lets you adjust the leg length very easily to level your tool, bench, etc. and they are less than $2 each.

Steve is a friend of mine, but I have no financial connection with him or his business, except when I'm buying supplies that I need from him.

Charley

[John Sanford]

Mine was directly on concrete for 14+ years. I think I may have painted the bottoms when I originally built it, and I know I routed a roundover, but that's it. No moisture problems, no rot, no splintering. Of course, the majority of those 14+ years were spent in Las Vegas, with the balance up here. I suspect it won't be much of an issue in most of the LA area either.

[Marc Burt]

Mine has been on concrete in Alabama and Georgia for 13 years to no ill effect.

[Leo Graywacz]

When I moved into my shop I too worried about the 2 by material contacting the concrete floor. My floor is very smooth and at least 3500psi concrete. Some days if I have my sprayroom fan going (17,000cfm) the floor will sweat. But usually it is dry.

All I did was cut some pressure treated lumber about 1/2" thick and put it under the bench legs. It's been 12 years and no ill effects.

[Jim Becker]

The "feet" on my bench are doug-fir and they pretty much sit on the concrete. These are hefty "feet". I have nothing on them, although the one end has 3/8" plywood shims for leveling. (My shop floor slopes because it was originally a 3.5 car garage)

[Jay Radke]

I chamfered the bottoms and put the Rockler bench rollers/lifts on my Roubo. Works well and can handle the weight, its an ash bench. Almost all the years its up on its rollers so the legs are not on the concrete. Though my concrete is painted. If I could figure out how to post a picture I will.

[Larry Gipson]

Not sure about a heavy bench, but I've used leveling feet from a company in Signal Hill (Long Beach) Ca.
http://www.levelingmounts.com/ I have them on my table saw and on a bandsaw. The one's I bought screw into a hex extension block purchased at Home Depot; welded on the project. The could be driven into a hole drilled in wood just as easily.

[Erik Christensen]

I use scrap Ipe decking - countersink the screws - the wood is indestructible.

[Paul Kinneberg]

As others have said I chamfered and epoxied the bottoms. Heads up they will soak it up pretty good I just kept adding until they no longer soaked it up.

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