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Thread: hollow mortise chisels

  1. #1
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    hollow mortise chisels

    I know I saw a thread here a couple of weeks ago, but I've searched and browsed and can't find it. This is really a three-part question...

    First, how do you determine the proper size for a M&T? The only suggestion I've seen was that it should be about 1/3 of the thickness of the wood. Is that all there is to it?

    Second, I need a new set of mortise chisels, or at least a good 1/2" chisel set. What few reviews I can find on them leaves me questioning the quality of ALL of them. Doesn't sound like there's much difference between the $12 and the $60 chisels that can't be fixed with some sharpening and polishing. I would do that anyway, but don't want to get low-quality steel. I was set on the LV economy set, but they aren't carrying them anymore. Is there a product in the middle that may need some touch-up out of the box, but that will give me good service life without breaking the bank?

  2. #2
    I'm having the same problem finding a quality set in mortise chisels.
    I was looking at the LV economy set too but they aren't available and I'm don't know if the $170 premium set is that much better.

    I settled on trying the Woodriver 144010 set and 144385 sharpening set.
    I don't know how good they are, but I'm going to try them. Should have them next week.

    http://www.woodcraft.com/product/144...boxed-set.aspx
    http://www.woodcraft.com/product/144...ening-kit.aspx

  3. #3
    I can't speak to the specific differences between cheap vs expensive chisels. I can tell you my Powermatic chisels work well. They weren't inexpensive. Sorry I can't be more help.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  4. #4
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    I've had really good luck with these. They aren't the cheapest, but really do stay sharp longer than the cheap ones. I use the LV kit for sharpening, and an X-fine diamond paddle (colored plastic handle kind-can't remember the name) to keep the burrs off the outside of the chisel. I used the old, original Delta brand for a long time, but these are much better. After sharpening, don't touch the edge to see how sharp it is.
    http://woodworker.com/14-mortising-c...search=mortise chisel&searchmode=2

    If you are a "pro", this company offers a Professsional discount-you have to sign up for it, and regular shipping is next day for me in the same state.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    I've had really good luck with these. They aren't the cheapest, but really do stay sharp longer than the cheap ones. I use the LV kit for sharpening, and an X-fine diamond paddle (colored plastic handle kind-can't remember the name) to keep the burrs off the outside of the chisel. I used the old, original Delta brand for a long time, but these are much better. After sharpening, don't touch the edge to see how sharp it is.
    http://woodworker.com/14-mortising-c...search=mortise chisel&searchmode=2

    If you are a "pro", this company offers a Professsional discount-you have to sign up for it, and regular shipping is next day for me in the same state.
    Those are about the same $$ as the LV premium and they don't offer any sort of discount for a set of 4. If they're better I might go that route and just buy as I need them - would rather go with something highly recommended than take a chance, though I've always heard good things about LV tools just not much about their HCM bits.

  6. #6
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    My friend uses these and really like them. He recommended that I pick up the set when I get my mortiser. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...80,42240,53317

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Sacramento, ca.
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    [QUOTE=Wes Ramsey;2561403]I
    First, how do you determine the proper size for a M&T? The only suggestion I've seen was that it should be about 1/3 of the thickness of the wood. Is that all there is to it?

    The rule of thumb that I use for a mortise size is 1/2 the thickness of the tenoned piece. Example, on a table with a 3/4 in. thick apron the tenon would be 3/8" thickness, so cut the mortise in the leg accordingly. I read that someplace years ago, I don't recall where. I am no help on mortise chisels. I use a router to cut mortise's .
    Bill

    " You are a square peg in a square hole, and we need to twist you to make you fit. " My boss

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wes Ramsey View Post
    Those are about the same $$ as the LV premium and they don't offer any sort of discount for a set of 4. If they're better I might go that route and just buy as I need them - would rather go with something highly recommended than take a chance, though I've always heard good things about LV tools just not much about their HCM bits.
    I don't know that they are any better. They may even be the same ones. The ones I linked to do say made in Japan on the box. I have a set of old Deltas, and half of them have never been used. I just buy a size when I need it. My "to-do" list is so long, that the need for a tool never sneaks up on me.

  9. #9
    One of the magazines did a test on different joints and included several different thicknesses of tenons. 1/2 the material thickness was the strongest. Dominos didn't fare very well but the size of the dominos didn't match their choice of material sizes very well. Pocket screws did surprisingly well.

    I use the chisels that came with my Jet benchtop mortiser. I'm sure there are better ones but mine work fine. They don't need sharpened very often.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    I don't know that they are any better. They may even be the same ones. The ones I linked to do say made in Japan on the box. I have a set of old Deltas, and half of them have never been used. I just buy a size when I need it. My "to-do" list is so long, that the need for a tool never sneaks up on me.
    They are the same Leevalley also carries the starM Brand . Although it only appears that they go down to quarter-inch . I had to order my 3/32" Japan pattern bit straight form from Japan, they do also make an industrial carbide tipped half inch for their automatic line machines and these are made in the British pattern . You won't see these at Lee valley or any place in North America for that matter and run about $250 US



    3/32"
    Last edited by jack forsberg; 05-06-2016 at 7:43 AM.
    jack
    English machines

  11. #11
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    Oct 2007
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    Well coming late to the conversation, but I'll add my 2cw. For me I tend to want the fattest tenon I can do. General rule is 1/3 and IMO thats fine in non load situations. However, if I think due to weight or use, I might have an issue, I do minimal shoulders but thats just me. If it's to be a through tenon, and aesthetics is an issue then more than likely the 1/3 (keeping in mind the golden ratio). In the words of Charles Neil, "looks good is good".

    I have a powermatic 719T floor model and I bought their chisel set when I purchased the machine. You questioned the diff between the cheep and expensive set, and I'll say they both will get the job done, but the more expensive sets have better steel and will keep an edge longer. There are higher $$ sets than the powermatic ones I got, but they work for me and hold an edge a long time.

    Final piece of advice, get a good sharpening cone. That to me is as important as a sharpening stone for the sides. I forget the name of mine, its from England but the name escapes me.

    I love mine and use them often.

    Good luck!

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