Filling Western Red Cedar Dents

[John Bion]

Hi All,

I have just made some 4’ X 3’ Western Red Cedar signs for a customer and managed to put a dent in one through foolishly dropping something on it, the dent is about an inch across and 1/2” deep. The sign has yet to be painted. Is there a recommended type of product I could use to fill the dent with for an external sign (it will be painted over)? I could use a regular wood filler but am unsure of how well it would last outdoors.

I could re-make the sign if necessary but would rather not have to do so if avoidable.

Thanks and kind regards, John

[Allan Speers]

John, if you don't get a quick response form the sign experts (I don't make them) and you are in a hurry, try a boating materials retailer. They typically have very good epoxies that move with the weather & can be easily sanded.

[Malcolm McLeod]

At 1/2" deep, it might be just as easy to rout the dent to a regular shape and inlay a piece of similar material (TB III glue).

[John Bion]

HI Allan and Malcolm,

Thanks for both of your quick replies. I should have thought of the routing idea, I think I will run with that in this particular case. TBIII is what I am using.

Kind regards, John

[Rodger MacMunn]

Sorry ... I just saw this. You can use almost any 2-part epoxy that is recommended for wood. Not sure what you might have access too ... Some you just knead together with your fingers. One called PC Woody available in North America comes in "tootsie roll" that you can just slice off & have the correct mixture.

[Allan Speers]

Rodger, a lot of epoxies and 2-part wood fillers (and also Bondo) canl rip apart if used outdoors. I've had it happen several times. Best to use an epoxy that's specifically marketed as flexible.

- Or do the routing thing, of course.

[Rodger MacMunn]

Allan, I've been using either Magic Sculpt or PC woody for about 20 years with no failures that I've heard of so far. I often use it for repairs on raised letters on sandblasted signs that have broken out because of the vertical grain. Some of these signs have been out there for 15 years. One's that had 1-shot paint on them made after the lead was removed have mostly all come back for a refurbishing & I don't recall having to repair any.
I can't speak for any of the others.

[John Bion]

Thanks Allan and Rodger,

I was unsure of the longevity of epoxy fillers in an outdoor setting (I do not have the experience), so encouraging to hear form Rodger on this and to ensure flexibility of product. I do appreciate the advice. Thanks again, John

[Allan Speers]

Allan, I've been using either Magic Sculpt or PC woody for about 20 years with no failures that I've heard of so far. I often use it for repairs on raised letters on sandblasted signs that have broken out because of the vertical grain. Some of these signs have been out there for 15 years. One's that had 1-shot paint on them made after the lead was removed have mostly all come back for a refurbishing & I don't recall having to repair any.
I can't speak for any of the others.

Good to know. I hadn't heard of those products.

I have had excellent success with the stuff from "Rot Doctor." Expensive, but it works great on an outdoor home-repair project where Bondo failed spectacularly. It's also easy to sand, plus you can shape it while wet with most plastics or teflon.

FWIW, I once tried Abatron's "Wood Epox," and I would wish that garbage on my worst enemy. Horrible stuff to work with.

[Allan Speers]

John, I assume you know this, but small dents can also often be greatly minimized by using steam.

- Probably not completely "fixed," but afterwards you'd need a lot less filler.

[John Bion]

Thanks Allan,
Unfortunately I dropped a large and heavy steel weight, with sharp corners onto the sign - it was either fill with one method or another or re-make the sign.
All advice is well received by me, I’ve only been doing this for three years and constantly learning what is old hat to others; so thanks for suggesting the steam