Lacquer Questions

[Rich Riddle]

I have some vintage bedroom furniture with lacquer finish on top. The water marks came out with a little work but it's now time to reapply the new coats of lacquer. I could bring out a sprayer, but it wouldn't be practical. On the headboard the new coats of lacquer won't take in some spots. It looks as if someone's head brushed the headboard with some oils, chemicals, etc. It didn't harm the finish but new lacquer won't go in those spots. Any ideas?

[Wayne Lomman]

Rich, I can think of 2 possible ways to approach the problem, given that spraying is not an option.
1.There is a paint/polish additive for overcoming silicone contamination. I can't remember what it's proper name is - we always call them anti-silicone drops. Most paint suppliers carry them here is Australia. It can be added to any paint/polish and may help.
2. Apply enough lacquer in the general area and then hand rub the area using a french polishing rubber. Dampen the rubber with the lacquer thinner to which you have added a small amount of lacquer so that the thinner doesn't just rip the lacquer off the job. Rubbing should drag the lacquer across the affected area in a gel state which doesn't separate as easily. This will only work for pure nitro lacquers however. Plastic/precatylised lacquers are a one way reaction when they cure.
I hope this helps. Cheers

[Scott Holmes]

A light coat of Zinsser de-waxed shellac will form a barrier coat so you can add lacquer over it. Big box stores sell it in an aerosol can. "Zinsser Seal Coat"

[Gabe Tanguay]

Once in awhile we have customers ask us to renew their old cabinet doors. We spray a tinted lacquer of their color choice. For prep we scuff everything with a sanding sponge, then we spray the door with thinner, and wipe off, paying attention to any bubbles or odd wet spots. Those odd spots we wipe until clean. With kitchen doors there is so much hand and cooking oils to remove. Hope this helps!

[John TenEyck]

I would thoroughly clean everything with mineral spirits or Naptha first; wiping it two or three times with fresh paper towels dipped in the solvent, with even more attention on the places where you suspect heavy contamination. When that's dry, I'd follow Scott's advise and spray a coat of dewaxed shellac. It will seal in any remaining oils so that your new lacquer coats will bond. I'd move the bed somewhere where I could spray everything. If that's an absolute no-go, I'd mask off everything around the bed and spray it where it is with a couple of fans in the windows to exhaust the fumes. I'd use waterborne but I know the brave of heart use NC lacquer.

John