Simple Sharpening Question

[Daniel O'Neill]

I picked up some waterstones and a Veritas MK II sharpening system. I've used some other jigs in the past and the question applies to really all jigs. In short I can't seem to keep my smaller chisels straight in the jig. So, how everyone does that to keep a consistent edge when doing a quick touch up? I do like using a jig. It seems to go much faster and I know some people don't like to use them but for those that do I could use some advice. Thanks in advance.

[Dave Parkis]

IMO, the Veritas MK II doesn't work well on small chisels without the new attachment they brought out for chisels. I used to use an Eclipse style jig for narrow chisels, but I've recently acquired a new jig that (hopefully) will be coming onto the open market soon that excels at almost everything. To be honest, I haven't tried the Kell or a couple of others that are out there, but the Eclipse style is readily available and pretty inexpensive ($10-$15). It will probably need to be "prepped" to work optimally, but for $15 I think its certainly worth a try. Oh, you'll also need to make a gauge block to establish the chisel projection, but there are a lot of places to see how that's done. HTH

[george wilson]

This has been discussed to death. Please do a search.

[Nick Stokes]

Does it really matter to you if you have a 27.5* or whatever angle on a small chisel. Just walk over to the stone, spend a few seconds on each grit, then head back over to your work.

Try it before you say no.

[Daniel O'Neill]

Does it really matter to you if you have a 27.5* or whatever angle on a small chisel. Just walk over to the stone, spend a few seconds on each grit, then head back over to your work.

Try it before you say no.

I have tried and I like the way the jig turns out better. Though you are right there isn't much difference between a ~27.5 or ~30 degree angle I personally get better repeatably with the jig. I know others prefer not to use a jig and that's why I wanted to clarify. Thanks for your comment.

[Kirby Krieger]

So, how everyone does that to keep a consistent edge when doing a quick touch up?

I do it by using a Lie-Nielsen honing guide with the appropriate jaws (you may need only one pair). As george wilson stated, this has been bandied about both frequently, and at length.

[Patrick Chase]

I picked up some waterstones and a Veritas MK II sharpening system. I've used some other jigs in the past and the question applies to really all jigs. In short I can't seem to keep my smaller chisels straight in the jig. So, how everyone does that to keep a consistent edge when doing a quick touch up? I do like using a jig. It seems to go much faster and I know some people don't like to use them but for those that do I could use some advice. Thanks in advance.

I generally take a light test stroke, see if one side is getting worked more than the other (you can usually tell by where the stone gets darkened), and tweak the tool as required. Adds a few seconds total once you're used to doing it.

[Patrick Chase]

I have tried and I like the way the jig turns out better. Though you are right there isn't much difference between a ~27.5 or ~30 degree angle I personally get better repeatably with the jig. I know others prefer not to use a jig and that's why I wanted to clarify. Thanks for your comment.

For a chisel or (especially) a BU plane 2.5 deg makes a noticeable difference.

[Daniel O'Neill]

I generally take a light test stroke, see if one side is getting worked more than the other (you can usually tell by where the stone gets darkened), and tweak the tool as required. Adds a few seconds total once you're used to doing it.

Ah that's a good point I didn't think of. Thanks

[steven c newman]

I have the MK1 jig. It seems to have something the #2 doesn't......a layer of a rubber-like substance to help with the grip. You MIGHT cut a small pad from a Mouse pad, epoxy it in place, and see if it helps to hold the small stuff in place.

Just a thought....

[Patrick Chase]

I have the MK1 jig. It seems to have something the #2 doesn't......a layer of a rubber-like substance to help with the grip. You MIGHT cut a small pad from a Mouse pad, epoxy it in place, and see if it helps to hold the small stuff in place.

Just a thought....

Hmm, my old mk1 never had that, though I considered adding some and decided it would be a very bad idea. In the mk1 the tool registers to the grooved metal base and is pressed down by a floating (in both tilt and rotation) brass "pusher" on the end of the screw. Adding rubber to the pusher wouldn't accomplish anything since it floats to begin with, and adding rubber to the base would compromise the registration surface and exacerbate the problems that the OP is trying to fix.

Similar reasoning applies to the mk2, except now the registration surface is the one above the tool rather than below, and now it's the bottom jaw that floats a bit. Adding rubber to the jaw wouldn't hurt but probably wouldn't help, and adding rubber to the registration surface would exacerbate registration errors.

[Patrick Chase]

Ah that's a good point I didn't think of. Thanks

With practice you'll get to where you can simultaneously draw the tool back and tweak the rotation until the stone cuts across the full width of the bevel. That's what I was alluding to when I said it "adds a few seconds total" (if that). If you use softer sharpening media you may not want to do push strokes until the rotation is dialed in though...

[steven c newman]

Mie has a very thin rubber coating on it. Merely for grip, I guess. The moving part could use a groove in it, to hold the narrow chisels in place until you can tighten things down. Haven't really had any issues with mine, and I haven't even added the groove. i keep watch on the blade being sharpened, anyway.