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Thread: Opinions needed on BC Crisscross layout screwup recovery

  1. 05-14-2016, 8:27 PM #1
    Kesh Ikuma
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    Opinions needed on BC Crisscross layout screwup recovery

    Hi, I've been away from SMC for some time (has not even been lurking around) but I need some help from the SMC neanderthal experts to recover from the mighty screw-up I just had today.

    Here is what happened. I've been building a workbench for some time now (weekend-only woodworking sure slows things down a lot). Today, I was quite excited to finally reach the stage to mess around with the BenchCrafted gears (classic leg vise with crisscross solo) that I bought some 2 years ago . I laid out the holes and mortises and then forgot to follow the golden mantra of "measure twice cut once." I drilled the vise and crisscross pin holes an inch lower and crisscross mortise an inch too short...

    CrissCrossOops.jpg

    The thought of recreating the leg doesn't excite me (need to go back to the store for more lumber, mill, laminate, etc. etc.) as it'll set me back by at least 2 weeks. So, I was relieved to find that the bottom end of the crisscross won't stick out of leg if I extend the mortise all the way down. It'll leave clearance a little shy of 1/4" off the floor:

    Clearance.jpg

    The leg is 4-inch wide and 5-inch deep, and the chop will be 3-inches thick (already milled). In my original plan, I was to give 1/4" clearance between the chop and the floor (following the BC manual). If I reduce the clearance to 1/8" or 3/16" and let the crisscross mortise in the chop to also go all the way down, it still seems to work despite the mis-cut...

    Is my altered plan a go? I think both the leg and chop are thick enough for this and the ground clearance is sufficient. But I never owned a workbench, so what do I know...

    Please let me hear what y'all think. Thanks!
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  3. 05-14-2016, 10:01 PM #2
    Malcolm Schweizer's Avatar
    Malcolm Schweizer
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    I'm building my chop this weekend and will try not to do the same, but boy is this ever my worry. I am making a slight change to plan as well, which has me even more cautious to remember to make my dimension changes from plan. Can you not plug the pin hole and redrill? My concern is the floor clearance is a bit tight for either imperfections in your floor or wood shavings and other debris causing it to jam. I am making the bottom of my chop round to help prevent this.

    image.jpg
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  4. 05-14-2016, 10:35 PM #3
    Kesh Ikuma
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    Malcom,

    I wish... What killed any hope for repair is that I already drilled 1-1/4" thru hole (w/the 2-5/8" counterbore, mind you) for the vise in the wrong place as well. The separation of the vise and xcross is at the BC specified minimum. Technically, I can plug those holes if I can find dowels of the right dimension (but I don't have a lathe)...

    Good point on debris/shavings on the floor possibly getting caught. Maybe I can shape the bottom of the chop like a snowplow (even better, with a brush sweeping the floor! lol) Also, worst comes to worst, I can always place the bench on riser blocks. I think my floor is fairly flat where I'm placing the bench.

    BTW, you are very welcome to remind you of what could happen if you are careless. My loss is your gain
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  5. 05-14-2016, 10:53 PM #4
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    Malcolm Schweizer
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    Oh, I see. I didn't consider the great big hole- I thought it was just the pins. Well, here is a thought if you decide to fill the hole- inlay a big diamond or round decorative shape to cover the doweled repair and make it a win. Center the shape to the new hole and make it big enough to cover the old one.
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  6. 05-15-2016, 9:42 AM #5
    Kesh Ikuma
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    Ah, that's a nice idea. I'll keep that as a consideration.

    A little off-topic, but could you share the dimensions of your chop? I really like the proportions of it.
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  7. 05-15-2016, 11:05 AM #6
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    Malcolm Schweizer
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    The wide part is 9.5", narrow part is 5.5" in width. Top portion to where the radius is measures 15". The radius of the inside curves is 2". The notch at the bottom is 1/2" on either side and bottom radius is 2.25". It is drawn a bit longer than my 34" top height and will be trimmed to fit.
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  8. 05-15-2016, 12:23 PM #7
    Kesh Ikuma
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    Nice. Thanks for the info. Mine is 8" wide and my initial plan was to taper the bottom to near the width of the crisscross mortise, which I wasn't 100% sold on.
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  9. 05-16-2016, 1:39 AM #8
    Mark Kornell
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    A dowel that size would be hard to find, unless you could make one on a lathe.

    In lieu of that, I'd be tempted to enlarge the hole to make a square mortise, then glue in an easy-to-shape square block of wood with grain orientation to match the leg's. No need for a decorative patch, as the fix won't be visible once the chop and hardware are installed.
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  10. 05-16-2016, 7:24 AM #9
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    Malcolm Schweizer
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    ...or go all out with one of these. http://www.inlays.com/Compass-Rose-s/1925.htm ...but Mark is right- once the hardware is installed you probably won't even notice a repair. I do understand, however, being that I suffer from severe OCD. :-)
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  11. 05-16-2016, 10:04 AM #10
    Chris Hachet
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    You will love this once it is installed and in operation.
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