Time to learn how to fill with epoxy....

[Kelly Hanna]

I have never tried this other than once with a cheapo 2 part epoxy from the hardware store. I want to fill some gaps in live edge furniture down the road and I remember talking to Steve Jenkins about it a few years ago. Wanted to know what to use, how thick each application can be and how to fill deep holes.

Hoping to hear some good advice so I don't waste any time trying to use the wrong stuff or procedure.

[Wayne Lomman]

Kelly, I take it that the epoxy repairs will be visible? I'll assume that to be the case. The problem with most epoxy and polyester fillers is the colour. To avoid this I would suggest using a clear/amber resin such as West System. This way you can get a good colour by adding your own filler which in this case can be sander dust from the same species of timber. Mix the resin and hardener in the correct ratio and brush a thin coat in the hole to wet it out. Add the dust to the rest of the resin until it is thick enough to hold up when you apply it to the job and fill the hole.

You should be able to fill the holes in one go. The filler should be enough to prevent the build up of excess heat in the repair as the epoxy cures. Very large holes should be done in 2 or more stages or else repaired with timber instead. Cheers.

[Prashun Patel]

Tint your clear epoxy. It can sometimes dry hazy, and tinting compensates for that by coloring and making it opaque.

I use black Transtint. I find this easier than making the right sawdust or other tricks. A single bottle of black TT will last you a long while and has other applications. It's the "little black dress" of wood finishing, IMHO.

I've used a good deal of T-88 slow setting epoxy from System Three. It settles slowly, so you may think you've filled a void level, only to find out 30 mins later, that it's settled in the crack below level, so anticipate doing 2 applications.

Don't worry about masking off the surrounding area. In my experience, it's easier to plane or scrape the epoxy level than it is to deal with masking tape, which can actually stick more stubbornly with the epoxy. Even black epoxy on open grained white oak comes right out with a scraper. Don't try to work the epoxy when it's still rubbery. Wait until it's fully hard and then scrape. In fact, a block plane is very good for this too, so you don't make a divot. There's no reason to pre-seal the wood with shellac either.

[Gary Muto]

[QUOTE=Prashun Patel;2566606..... I use black Transtint. I find this easier than making the right sawdust or other tricks. A single bottle of black TT will last you a long while and has other applications. It's the "little black dress" of wood finishing, IMHO....[/QUOTE]

little Black dress... nice! Made me laugh!

[Brian W Smith]

Safety guy here...

We spray it,pour it,build with it,pretty much live with the stuff.Please educate yourself on the inherent dangers and protect yourself accordingly.You need predictable air circulation,and proper dust management....

[Andrew Helman]

I used West System. They have a super clear resin, the 207, if I remember correctly, and their standard resin, which is someat amber, the 205. I used tape underneath or on the sides to build forms and prevent drip-through as needed. You can pour 1/4 inch deep at a time. Then it must cure. Pour more 12 hours later to enhance adhesion.

I used a propane plumber's torch to get rid of air bubbles prior to and after pouring. It heats up the epoxy to release them. You can also spray denatured alcohol in a super fine mist (White Rain hair spray bottle works well--$1-$2 @ CVS); it releases surface tension for the same result--but don't use a torch if you use DNA!

I did it on spalted maple and taped around the edges where pouring at first for over pour. Scrape it off within 24 hours, and it isn't bad. The tape was a pain, and the epoxy bled under anyway. Use a card scraper or the blade from a block plane. A heat gun helps, but wear a respirator when making epoxy dust.

I tested sanding dust mixed with the epoxy, Trans tint (black) dye, and clear withough dye or dust. I went with clear. The dye never really sanded all the way off and bled under the tape. The sanding dust looked odd to me.

The clear gave a beautiful effect. The cracks in the slab were what they were. Why hide them? With the clear, you can stare right down into them. It is very cool.

I posted pics of my project on here, and I think they are visible somewhere. You'll see the epoxy etc. If not, message me, and we can email further.

Good luck.

[Kelly Hanna]

I like the idea of being able to fill it all in one go or two. West or System Three with Transtint sounds like the plan. Always liked little black dresses...:] Thanks!

[Scott Holmes]

I too use TransTint black or dark brown mixed with epoxy to fil cracks and voids. I do NOT recommend sanding dust; It traps air thus can cause bubbles.

TIP: Apply a very thin light coat of epoxy in deep holes and voids let it dry; then fill to a little above level. The first thin coat will help prevent air bubbles from getting trapped down in your fill.

[Andrew Helman]

If the void is much more than 1/4 inch deep, the more than one pour is best. The curing process is exothermic, i.e. it creates heat, and the epoxy can expand. If your pour is too thick, then it'll bubble and cure fast, with expansion, and will likely not look clear. Just my $0.02 (and what I recall West recommending).

[Dan Hulbert]

I've done this a couple times, once about 5 years ago and a second 3 years ago.
Picked up some clear 2-part casting resin from Hobby Lobby. Partially filled voids with small stones (actually semi-precious scraps and small fossils). Inset butterflies as needed. Dammed up the through holes and edge cracks (really a challenge on a live edge).

Poured first pour. (Glad I did the work when I could open all the doors on my shop to outside) Used propane torch to release bubbles. Larger voids needed a second pour and even a third. Planed, scraped, sanded a lot.

Finished with BLO to pop grain, clear shellac to seal, top coated with several coats of home brewed wipe on poly for protection.

Happy wife!