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Thread: New Veritas #4 Smoother - new blade design

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    East San Francisco Bay CA.
    Posts
    206

    New Veritas #4 Smoother - new blade design

    Hey Folks,

    I just bought a new LV #4 smoother with the PM-V11 blade. My issue is in understanding how the "blade carrier" system works. Anyone have this new (new to me at least) setup from LV?

    It is a Norris style adjuster, which I like, but it also incorporates an odd blade "locator" that supposedly allows you to remove the cap iron for sharpening and then reapply the cap iron in exactly the same place to return the plane to the exact same setup profile that was present before the sharpening. Its a fantastic idea - I like the concept, but I am simply not clear on how it works. There are a couple of set screws with Allen keys. I hate to think I will need to hunt for the provided Allen wrench each time I want to sharpen that plane blade.

    Anyone else have one of these newfangled (hows that for a codger term?) Veritas setups? What is your feeling on the need for the allen wrench, and the setup/features of the blade carrier? Thanks in advance, I know I will get great responses - always do on this board.

    Joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    105
    There should have been very detailed instructions that came with the plane on how to set it up and how that allen key chip breaker mechanism works. Did you receive that? The instructions are also available on the web

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Beaulieu View Post
    Hey Folks,

    I just bought a new LV #4 smoother with the PM-V11 blade. My issue is in understanding how the "blade carrier" system works. Anyone have this new (new to me at least) setup from LV?

    It is a Norris style adjuster, which I like, but it also incorporates an odd blade "locator" that supposedly allows you to remove the cap iron for sharpening and then reapply the cap iron in exactly the same place to return the plane to the exact same setup profile that was present before the sharpening. Its a fantastic idea - I like the concept, but I am simply not clear on how it works. There are a couple of set screws with Allen keys. I hate to think I will need to hunt for the provided Allen wrench each time I want to sharpen that plane blade.

    Anyone else have one of these newfangled (hows that for a codger term?) Veritas setups? What is your feeling on the need for the allen wrench, and the setup/features of the blade carrier? Thanks in advance, I know I will get great responses - always do on this board.

    Joe
    I have several planes with that. The nut (what you call the "locator") is held in place by 2 hex-head screws, both of which screw into the nut.

    The cap screw furthest from the cutting edge "pinches" the nut against the blade. The cap rests in a hole in the cap iron and thereby constrains the position of the cap iron without actually retaining it. You can leave this screw fastened during honing, provided that you're either freehanding or your honing guide doesn't interfere with the nut. If you do leave it fastened then it will indeed register the cap iron in the same place (though not in rotation - you still have to dial that in every time). It also registers the blade extension in exactly the same place by the way.

    The button-head screw closest to the cutting edge also pinches the blade against the nut, and holds the cap iron against the blade. You always remove this one before honing and replace it afterwards

    There is one wrinkle to be aware of: If you do remove the cap screw (the one that doesn't press the cap iron against the blade) then you will probably want to tighten the button-head screw first when putting everything back together. The cap screw tends to "walk" a bit during tightening because it only pinches the blade on one side and the tightening forces are therefore unbalanced, and that makes it hard to precisely position the cap iron. If you cinch the button screw first then that isn't an issue. I think that both Derek and Chris Schwartz have given similar advice. The order is therefore: Partially tighten the cap screw, fully tighten the button-head, fully tighten the cap screw.

    Another non-obvious reason Veritas went with that scheme is because (per Derek) they wanted the custom planes to be usable without a cap iron, which was all the rage back then. Registering the adjuster to the nut instead of the cap iron kills both birds with one stone.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 05-21-2016 at 1:12 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    East San Francisco Bay CA.
    Posts
    206
    Hey Patrick - thank you. That is a great explanation of how that works. I really appreciate the time you took to write
    those instructions. I see you are in Dublin. I work in Pleasanton and live in the Hayward hills. Not too far at all. If you ever need to borrow a cup of shellac flakes just come by! �� I will work with the plane tomorrow and let you know how feels. Thanks again.

    Joe

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