What grain filler do you prefer?

[Mike Dowell]

I've got an upcoming project in which the customer wants a perfect, mirror finish with no wood grain texture. In the past, I've just put on many, many coats of finish, and sanded them down, but that uses a ton of material, and I'm trying to get into new ways of doing things. I know lost of folks use grain filler, and I'm trying to figure out what is popular and likely to give me a good result if I apply it properly.

Thanks!

[Scott Holmes]

I like Crystalac.

[Robert LaPlaca]

I like Crystalac.

Scott, you mind elaborating on how you apply the product? If I remember correctly, the instructions on the label were not very clear

[Mike Dowell]

I was just going to ask Scott that! Scott, what do you like about it? Why do you like it more than other fillers you've used? How do you apply it?

[Bob Wingard]

I just use drywall mud ... the one you get as a powder, and have to mix ... it doesn't shrink.

[Mike Dowell]

WHAT???

[Jim Becker]

I just use drywall mud ... the one you get as a powder, and have to mix ... it doesn't shrink.

Great for a painted project but...

Mike, I've only used Behlens and only once, years ago. It did the job.

[John TenEyck]

Plaster of Paris has been used as a filler since way back. Have a look: http://pianomaker.co.uk/technical/filling/

Drywall mud is of the same ilk.

John

[Scott Holmes]

I like it because it shinks very little... if you let it dry for 24 hours then sand it flat I have not found it to shrink at all. And it is CLEAR! I have used drywall mud and Durham rock hard putty for painted projects.

As for application... I use a plastic card or squeegee. Most of the time I use a plastic card I have a stash of obsolete plastic gift cards in my shop; then I toss 'em.

[Steve Schoene]

Another one that is pretty good is the Sherwin Williams Grain Filler. It has a high percentage of "Silex" which gives it very low shrinkage, and a translucent fill. I like to tint pore filler so it is slightly darker than the base wood color, giving the end result a greater depth. Since some open pore woods, such as oak, don't take dye well inside the pores, the tinted pore filler works well to cover that where clear won't.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Ah, so you apply the product just like a traditional oil based grain filler... Do you find that one application fills the grain using the squeegee method?

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, I mostly use a traditional oil based grain filler. I usually thin it and apply it by hand with a coarse rag or burlap. If I am staining the item, I combine staining and filling in one process. The stain is usually a combination of dye and pigment stains with the proportions varied depending on the clarity required for the finished look. However, sometimes if a totally clear finish is required, I will use high solids 2 pack polyurethane clear coat - usually have a full finish in 3 coats. Cheers

[John Blazy]

ALL commercial wood fillers that are not epoxy based will shrink upon cure, and continue to do so long after, therefore telegraphing the wood grain / pores over time, after you have sanded and buffed the topcoat to a mirror finish. Therefore my favorite filler is a good quality epoxy, then top coat with 2K urethane of choice (automotive is cheap, and you cant beat the gloss and buffability).

Cool to hear about the drywall compound too. I assume it does finish somewhat clear, as it is mostly glass microspheres with calcium carbonate and gypsum, which will allow a clear finish to soak into and wets it out somewhat clear. Once the finish soaks into it, it too will allow shrinkage, which allows grain to telegraph through. Maybe drywall compound and epoxy over it. I might try that.
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[Mike Dowell]

Hey guys, just to update, I finally ordered Crystalaq AND a tub of Timbermate. I was thinking to try Timbermate as a general filler (due to all the good things I had heard about it), and I saw that it is also designed to be used as a grain filler. I'm going to try the water based/pre-stain step sanding type of filler to see how I like it. That way, if I do like it, I have the faster of the two options.

[Mike Dowell]

Question for you all, I know the Timbermate is designed to be used as a grain filler before sanding, so fill/sand/stain. What is to stop me from the following schedule(partial):

1) initial and finish sand
2) stain
3) (2) coats sanding sealer
4) tint and apply Timbermate
5) sand flat with 320grit
6) coat of sanding sealer
7) continue

I suppose that schedule is essentially treating Timbermate as an oil based filler, but I'm wondering if anyone has done it this way? I guess it's the same amount of work either using it before sanding or after sanding sealer coats. No?