getting my first saw mill

[david privett]

I am getting a band sawmill on a trailer , I have never used one, watched several being used , so I was asking the guy who is making it about the lubricant for the blade he said just water, I have heard of using diesel and dish soap with water is there a commercial product for this? or am I making to much of this? My first cuts will be ruff cut red oak for a new tractor shed so if it is stained who cares. oh the mill cap. is 28 inch by 17 and one half ft. with a 16 hp. engine. any other hints for a newbie will be appreciated.

[Danny Hamsley]

I use dawn dish soap and pine-sol. For 5 gallons of lube, I put in about a quarter cup of dawn dish soap and about a cup of pine-sol. Has served me well.

[Cody Colston]

I use dawn dish soap and pine-sol. For 5 gallons of lube, I put in about a quarter cup of dawn dish soap and about a cup of pine-sol. Has served me well.

I use the same lube as Danny but I only add Pine-Sol if sawing Pine. The best advice I can give on operating a band mill is to use a sharp blade with adequate tension. Of course, proper set-up (guides adjusted, mill level) is a prerequisite to getting flat cuts.
Congrats on getting a mill. Sawing usable lumber from logs is very rewarding.

[John K Jordan]

I use plain water with my Woodmizer.

I'm glad you have a tractor. I welded grab hooks to the bucket of mine and put the logs on the mill with two large cant hooks on short pieces of chain. Sometimes I use forks on the tractor or bobcat. I usually offload boards directly onto forks. I'm usually working by myself.

JKJ

[Ray Vivian]

David, show us what it looks like when you get it.

[david privett]

when I am using it here on the property I was thinking about loading logs with the backhoe I have . It has a thumb on the hoe , I figured that would be better than to try to roll them off the bucket forks and have it get away. But I am having it made with loading ramps and winch , which the guy says the winch can be used as a log turner also. we shall see in about 3 weeks.

[John K Jordan]

If my backhoe had a thumb I'd use that too. (...or if I could just find a cheap mini-x!) I found the forks worked fine, never had one get away from me, just rolled gently or with cant hooks if the log was large. My mill is stationary and very low to the ground so maybe that helps.

I've used a winch or come-along to load logs up ramps onto the trailer using the "wind the cable (or chain) around the log" method, or easier when there was room to maneuver, pull the cable with a vehicle.

You are going to have a blast! Don't forget to cut a few thick slabs. As a woodturner, I and others get great use from 2-4" thick slabs from cherry, walnut, cedar, maple, etc. if you don't turn wood you can sell the slabs, or better, cut them up and make turning blanks for bowls and turned boxes. I don't saw as a business, mostly for farm use, but I've had people buy cants for mantles too.

JKJ

[Cody Colston]

when I am using it here on the property I was thinking about loading logs with the backhoe I have . It has a thumb on the hoe , I figured that would be better than to try to roll them off the bucket forks and have it get away. But I am having it made with loading ramps and winch , which the guy says the winch can be used as a log turner also. we shall see in about 3 weeks.

I put my Logmaster LM1 on a trailer a few years ago. It also has the loading ramps and a removable hand winch for loading logs. I use it when I have a log that my 30 hp tractor won't lift. Otherwise I either use the forks or, if the bucket is on the tractor, a chain with two log tongs to place logs on the mill. I have had one go off the back side when using the forks. PITA, too. Your backhoe with the thumb should work great.

[david privett]

for those interested the guy who is building the saw mill for me is lumberjack saw mills (lumberjackbandsaws.com) ph# 770-773-0691 2138 us-411 Fairmont,Ga. 30139 you can see his pictures of a mill he makes.

[david privett]

here I have not got the mill yet and I got questions, is there a rule of thumb about working around the pith. Like if you do not want any pith how far is it suggested I should stay away from it? I figure this changes to each type of tree but just for general info. as place to start.

[John K Jordan]

...is there a rule of thumb about working around the pith..

I am certainly no expert since I saw for myself and for farm use. I know some people cut a 4x4 or so out of the center to contain the pith, perhaps useful as a post or something with certain species. One problem with this is the pith can wander all over the place unless the log is straight, and even then you have to carefully measure and wedge up one end of the log before making the first cut. For my use (not for sale, not for furniture) I just make the best cant I can then saw the thicknesses I want.

As you mentioned, the species may make difference, but the intended use will too. Some species (dogwood, persimmon) will split near the pith and warp like crazy if not quarter sawn (and often even if it is!) I love to saw eastern red cedar for siding, etc, but since I love wood turning I often cut some thick slabs for bowls and platters. Cedar is so forgiving I just saw through and through and cut around any defects after air drying. This piece of log (about 5-6' I think) is about 24" in the middle and made some fantastic turning stock:

cedar_P9064287es.jpg

If you are sawing something like oak for random-width siding for outbuildings, it might save a lot of effort to just plain saw and put it up green, or rip into narrower widths before drying to minimize major cupping. I sometimes resaw after drying to straighten major bows. Twists are usually no problem since I put everything up with screws which will flatten a twist.

If you get some nice cherry, walnut, cedar, maple, dogwood, and other species, you might consider sawing some into larger slabs for sale to woodturners (if you don't turn yourself.) Thick pieces of wet wood, like short half-log chunks are highly prized by bowl turners. People who make smaller bowls, boxes, and spindles sometimes prefer dry wood (I do) so anything from 1.5" to 4" is great. (Most of the wood I'm turning now has been drying 6-10 years.) Sometimes I cut larger blocks from the large end of a log just for turning blanks. This guy was one happy bowl turner!

sawmill_blocks.jpg sawmill_small.jpg

I made a jig to hold short blocks. I think we cut about 2" out of the center, 1" on either side of the pith.

BTW, I bought a 55 gallon of AnchorSeal directly from UC Coatings. Painting the ends of the logs asap after felling can save a lot of wood. Not that important for barn siding, though.

I'm sure you are going to have a blast!! If you haven't done so, check out the sawmill forums. I got a lot of info there when I got my sawmill about a decade ago.

JKJ

[david privett]

yeah John I watch the turners forum I got a g0766, I do not know if you noticed I am in Cleveland,Tn. 1- 1/2 hours south of you.

[John K Jordan]

yeah John I watch the turners forum I got a g0766, I do not know if you noticed I am in Cleveland,Tn. 1- 1/2 hours south of you.

No, I didn't notice. You're right up the road from the other John Jordan, then. Did we meet at TAW?

Last time I was in your neighborhood was on the way to spending some quality time in my whitewater kayak, playing with Slice and Dice, Diamond Splitter, and Table Saw. These days I spend more time with Thompson, Hunter, and Powermatic. :-)

My sawmill sadly has been neglected lately but I've accumulated a big stack of cedar logs and I'm in the need of more siding so it's about time to fire it up.

I hear the Grizzly is a healthy lathe.

JKJ

[david privett]

no the only person I know is Daryl Moses , he is close to Athens ,Tn. I guess about 30 miles north of me. we have several common interests.

[John K Jordan]

Do you have a woodturning club in your area? Chattanooga?

I attend Smoky Mtn Woodturners in Knoxville and the club in Crossville, and have visited clubs in North Carolina and once in N. Alabama when Jimmy Clewes was there.

JKJ