What are the different ways to rip-cut (joint) the roundover part of a 2x4x8'?

[Mark Gibney]

Making a bench top is a big project, and just because you are working with relatively cheap materials it doesn't make it easier to do, just easier to accept the frustrations of it not working out.

For something like this I would reconsider joining your local woodworking club, or even finding a woodworking school in your area. They will have the equipment you need and hopefully people there who can give you some guidance on what to do.

Where are you located?

[Susumu Mori]

Hi Minh,

I did exactly the same; used 2x4 (actually 2x8 ripped in the middle) to build a workbench.

The problem is to establish two reference surfaces (one face and one edge). Without them, the tablesaw with a rip fence doesn't work well.

So, I guess you need to use a jointer first. Doesn't have to remove the roundover section completely for the initial two faces but unless your 2x4s are very straight, jointing one face and one edge usually remove most of the roundover part.

Once two faces are established, you can use a tablesaw, but because you have only less than 4 inches of width, tablesaw ripping could be unnerving. My preference is a bandsaw, followed by a jointer or planer. The bandsaw needs to be well tuned, though.

Susumu

[Frederick Skelly]

**Better option

Benchtop Planer:
Glue up 7 at a time and run them through a planer. You'll end up with nice square edges. Then glue your 10.5" blocks together. The end result should require very little clean up.
Robby

I agree with Robby. I did this and it worked very well. I recommend it.

Please be aware that regardless of how you do the edge jointing and glue-up, you will probably still have some high and low spots in places, and so need to flatten your new top after glue-up. The easiest way is to find a person or cabinet shop that has a wide enough planer or sander. The traditional and harder way (DAMHIKT) is to use a long straight edge and a #7 or #8 hand plane.

Fred

[John Seybold]

I agree with everybody who says you need to establish a straight edge and a flat face first before ripping away the other side on your table saw. But we obviously don't have enough neanderthals on this thread! If you pick your 2x4s carefully, they'll be pretty straight already, and with a jointer plane (like a #7) you can get your reference edge and face in just a few minutes. You don't need to plane it down to a perfect surface, as long as there are enough flat spots along the length of the board that there are always two flat spots in contact with the fence and table. Start with the face and knock off the high spots; then do the edge the same way. The only thing that will take time at first is getting a 90 degree angle between the two. Once you have enough reference surface, shave away the other side with your tablesaw, then flip the board around and take another 1/8" off to clean up your partially jointed edge. You might just have enough blade to do the faces the same way; if not, you'll need a planer. A benchtop model would be fine. I did this kind of thing for years (and still do it with boards too big for my jointer). It's amazing how fast you can do this operation with a hand plane, as long as you stop when you've done just enough.

[Michael Weber]

Never tried this, just thinking out loud. I'd attach the wide side of the 2 by 4 to a long piece of thin plywood wider than the 2 by 4. A few screws from the bottom of the plywood countersunk a bit to clear the table top. Overhang the edge of the board enough so you remove enough material to leave a clean edge. Run the opposite plywood edge along the fence. This will leave one straight edge regardless of how crooked the material is to begin with. This is a common technique for getting a straight edge on bowed or crooked hardwood lumber. The edge of the plywood (or other known straight material is the reference edge against the fence. Use the newly cut edge against the fence then to get the second edge straight and parallel. Crank the blade up, screw one of the now straight edges to the plywood and repeat the above for the long edges of the 2 by material. Again, just thinking and not sure it would work but may be worth trying. Of course this assumes your saw blade can be cranked up enough to rip the 2 by material in one pass after the edge material has been removed. That why I thought thin plywood might be needed but maybe not depending on your saw. If this is not really practicicle someone will let us know

[Anthony Whitesell]

Have you tried a circular saw and straightedge?

To change directions on you, I will now toss you a curveball. I suggest you use 2x8x16s. They will provide better quality lumber than a 2x4x8. The tree must be of larger and better quality to produce a 2" thick, 8" wide, and 16' long boards. Then split the 2x8x16 into four 2x4x8 pieces. Then glue each of the four pieces together and flatten the top of each section, then glue the 4x sections together. The second glue-up will be able to provide a flat top with little to no clean up (maybe some sanding for glue squeeze out.

Splitting the 2x8 will provide two 2x4 with the square edge you are looking for. You will still have the problem with the rip cut. I don't exactly understand the problem with the table saw. Anything longer than about 4 feet requires outfeed support. If the fence is having a problem staying put, I suggest clamping a piece of wood behind the fence to prevent it from moving. I often have this problem when trying to cut down 4/4 x 12"+ by 8' long boards from my mill. There is too much weight and leverage against the fence and latches. To keep a long board such as these against the fence, a featherboard or two is a must.

(I believe I pulled the basis for this from the bench build posts here of yesteryear. This is how I went about building my bench.)

[Charlie Velasquez]

Seems there are a lot of ways to skin this cat. Might as well give you mine.

First the disclaimer; this was edge gluing of 6/4 stock, not face gluing.
No jointer, was not into planes back then.

I glued up stock as is. Gave a very poor glue line but was pretty solid. Then I ripped down the glue lines and reglued.

[lowell holmes]

Seems there are a lot of ways to skin this cat. Might as well give you mine.

I glued up stock as is. Gave a very poor glue line but was pretty solid. Then I ripped down the glue lines and reglued.

I've done that. It works. It helps if you have a Woodworker II blade.

[Brian Henderson]

Tablesaw. Make sure everything is properly aligned, make sure you have a splitter/riving knife and make sure you have a hold-down on your fence so that the board cannot lift up. The reason you're getting burning is because your feed speed isn't consistent or your blade isn't sharp. If you stop feeding to reposition your hands, you will get burning as your blade causes friction against the piece while it isn't moving. Don't do that. Make sure that you are feeding at a constant rate throughout and that you have sufficient support at the back for the length of the board. Roller stands work great for that.