15" Upper Kitchen Cabinets

[Frank Pratt]

Ikea uppers are all 15"

[Mike Cutler]

Who has built deeper upper cabinets, > 12", and what did you think of them? I'm wanting more space in the uppers, but was wondering if there is any draw backs in making them 15".

Not that I can see, as long as the kitchen is big enough. You might consider raising them up an inch or two. It visually makes them look a little more "standard".
Mine are 15" deep, and it works out very well. Dishes seem to fit better, more per cabinet, than a standard upper. We also have oversized plates.

[Jim Becker]

Kitchens should be primarily about practical, usable space - not about saving a few sheets of material, IMO.

This is spot-on and honestly, should apply to all projects...the end result is what counts the most.

[Mike Goetzke]

This is spot-on and honestly, should apply to all projects...the end result is what counts the most.

When I planned our kitchen project I couldn't believe the amount we spent on quality soft close slides, soft close hinges, and pulls/knobs...the wood seemed cheap!

Mike

[Leo Graywacz]

About 2 grand for plywood, 5-700 for hardware 1200 for solid wood and 5-600 for finish.

[Rick Potter]

Just checked mine. Most are 13" deep, but I made a couple deeper for space as well as making the run more visually interesting. One, for a microwave is almost 19", another for use with no door and fancy plates on display is 15" which fit the plate rack I made, and the third oddball is over the stove, and it is 16".

I find the uppers look really good with the bump outs, and crown along the top. The wif e designed them, and is very happy, with what I like to call 'the 68 drawer kitchen'.

[jessie hachey]

Dude, My sheets are 49" wide....

[jessie hachey]

I am a cabinet manufacturer, and although 12" is standard, I frequently do 13" and 14" uppers for added room, but anything more than that for regular uppers is overkill, and starts to crowd your face area while working. My custom standards are 13" uppers, 24" lowers, 25" over fridge, 25" pantry, and I use applied end panels between dimension changes, and between fridge that stick out an additional 7/8" which makes my 3/4" doors flush after you add a door bumper. Exposed ends are ususally applied door panels also measuring 7/8" deeper than cabinet.. of course this is all frameless design.

[Jim Dwight]

I built a little kitchenette in the walk out basement of our last house. It had a fridge that seemed to stick out. So I made the cabinet over it 24 deep, the one next to it about 18 deep, then one at 15, one at 12 and then a full height pantry about 9 or 10 inches deep to fit beside a doorway. So the whole set stepped along. We thought it looked good.

[Justin Ludwig]

IMG_2770.jpg

Both. I make my standard uppers X" x 31-7/8" x 12". Offset uppers are X" x 36" x 16". This allows the crown on the shorter cabinets to butt into the taller ones.

Standard depth in laundry room is 14" so I can put a hanging rod in between cabinets or a cabinet and wall cleat. 16" depth over washer/dryer is too encroaching, 12" deep won't allow for proper placement of hanging rod.

[Richard McComas]

My upper kitchen cabs are 14 1/2 deep not counting the doors. I use a 3/4 back. The end result is 13 inches inside. I have built deeper uppers when asked to accommodate particular items at the customers request.

[Leo Graywacz]

Why 3/4" backs? I use 1/2" and it's overkill. But it makes it so I don't need to put stretchers in which takes a lot of time. Thinking about going to 3/8". It'd be more then strong enough and would be lighter then 1/2"