It was a bit of a brave move suggesting a Carpenter with 30yrs experience might need to do some research on how to sharpen a chisel. Kudos to Michael for not spitting the dummy on that bit of advise.
Member
It was a bit of a brave move suggesting a Carpenter with 30yrs experience might need to do some research on how to sharpen a chisel. Kudos to Michael for not spitting the dummy on that bit of advise.
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 05-30-2016 at 9:13 AM.
Member
For that kind of work I like my Japanese chisels. I use them almost all the time when impact force is needed. I like to use them with a wooden mallet, but tradition is using a special steel hammer. Mine are the Koyimachi chisels, bought from Tools from Japan. Good white paper steel, not overly hard, easy to sharpen on oil stones, not crazy expensive. And when you do hit a nail, oh well, shit happens. I am not afraid to use a grinder to get them back in shape.
[OP]
Member
no offense taken...I work around plenty of people who think a new chisel from a box store is sharp...and others who send theirs out to be sharpened and can't do work on a given day because their chisels are away...Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson
I prefer to deal with it myself...I don't have time to send chisels out, pick them up, get annoyed when some ignoramus ruins them...
and you were correct: proper lapping and such is an important concept in a sharp tool...
Guest
I think it is interesting when people state matter of factly that Japanese or "high-end" chisels can't or shouldn't be used on a Jobsite. I wouldn't take my Kiyotada chisels to do a Jobsite to do concrete formwork, but I would to do timber framing or built-in cabinet installation. I have done this very thing hundreds of times.
I agree with having softer indestructible beaters like the old Stanley steel cap yellow handle chisels in the toolbag for work where nails or grit are likely to get in the way, but that is not all the work done on a construction site. And don't forget the discussion started with high-end woodworking with a 12oz hammer.
With a little caution there is absolutely no reason to not take good high-quality chisels that will hold a sharp edge a long time to a Jobsite to do good work. I know this from experience.
Stan
Contributor
This is only one of the reasons why I have a set of beater chisels. I would never loan one of my good chisels. Especially not to someone who needed to borrow one because theirs were out being sharpened. My personal rule of borrowing tools is I return it in as good or better condition than when it was loaned to me.get annoyed when some ignoramus ruins them...
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
Michael, I feel your pain. I remedied my sharpening by purchasing a second Veritas MKII jig for the job site. Works well for me.
[OP]
Member
I couldn't agree more...tools are tools...I use mine for making a living...that allows me to pay for a mortgage, bills, etc...
I guess there are those that just look at tools...I don't...I use them, and in general desire quality (certainly restricted by a budget)...
best analogy I can think of is those that buy guitars as collector's items as opposed to actually playing them...I'm definitely not that way...it's just a tool...use it...enjoy it...PROTECT it...simple...a dent here, a nick there...that's just being used as opposed to looked at from a distance
Member
"Because theirs are out being sharpened". THAT is a really bad situation!!So,how many minutes or hours(Are they from the berg store?" do they get to USE them before they are sent out again?
Contributor
A friend of mine actually did send his plane blades and chisels out for sharpening! When he showed me the blades I was horrified, it looked like they had been sharpened on the sidewalk, and they weren't even sharp.
I gave him a prototype jig I've been working on and showed him how to use it.
Whoever did the professional sharpening should have been shaved with one of those tools for punishment.
Jim
Ancora Yacht Service
Contributor
Michael, I really know your struggle with this issue. You get the impression sometimes from some of the posts here. It seems that there is a feeling that your work is somehow rougher and you don't need good chisels. You do need the best you can get. You do do very fine work equivalent to any furniture maker. You are also expected to make your work look good no matter how fine the work was that proceeded you. A lot of scribing and fitting and a lot of chisel work. I never tried Japanese chisels but I would sure give them a try. They are made to be hit with metal and should hold up well. Edge retention should be good from what I have read. They should sharpen just fine in the field if necessary. I know you aren't pounding away with a rigging ax buy a decent one with advice from Stanley or , Brian or Derek and give it a go. As the saying goes " Been there, done that". I always try to buy the best tool for the job, cost does not apply in this case.
Jim
Contributor
Yeah, I agree. Sometimes it pays to listen more carefully. Also in this same vein, I'm sure he knows how to use his hammer very well and I can see why a carpenter doesn't want or need multiple tools to do the same job. A 12 ounce hammer should be fine with a chisel.
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