Free SawStop Brake

[Joe Kaufman]

Looks to me like the teeth in that part of the blade were just ripped off by the brake. It's possible the brake "bounced" before grabbing the teeth. I haven't found the carbide teeth anywhere. Yes, I did have eye protection on.
Attachment 338260

Saw Stop mentions (p.29) that Blades with depth-limiting shoulders may take longer to stop and you could receive a more serious injury and recommends using blades without depth-limiting shoulders.

I have a few new combo blades with this feature and have considered not using them for this reason. The manufacturers of blades with depth limiting shoulders advertise them as a safety feature and anti-kickback features. So, you need to use a less intrinsically safe blade to be more safe......

[Andrew Hughes]

Darn Mike that must been very scary.Glad you didn't get hurt.
I got a great Vhs video you can watch while you recover.

[Mike Henderson]

[QUOTE=Joe Kaufman;2569928]

Looks to me like the teeth in that part of the blade were just ripped off by the brake. It's possible the brake "bounced" before grabbing the teeth. I haven't found the carbide teeth anywhere. Yes, I did have eye protection on.
Attachment 338260

Saw Stop mentions (p.29) that Blades with depth-limiting shoulders may take longer to stop and you could receive a more serious injury and recommends using blades without depth-limiting shoulders.

I have a few new combo blades with this feature and have considered not using them for this reason. The manufacturers of blades with depth limiting shoulders advertise them as a safety feature and anti-kickback features. So, you need to use a less intrinsically safe blade to be more safe......

Pardon my ignorance, but what are "depth limiting shoulders"? I went to the manual and found the statement but no picture of what they are.

Is it something to do with the depth of the gullets? In other words, what is a "shoulder" on a saw blade?

Mike

[Alan Schwabacher]

[QUOTE=Mike Henderson;2570024]

what are "depth limiting shoulders"?

If you go back to page 1 and look at the photo, you'll notice that every 5th tooth has a bump behind it. That's the depth limiting shoulder. The idea is that if you try to cut too fast, that will hit the work and prevent cutting too deeply. Usually this is good, but with a Sawstop it can prevent the aluminum block engaging the teeth completely as quickly, slowing down the blade stopping mechanism. Though apparently it still works pretty well.

[mreza Salav]

I had not noticed that warning about blades with anti-kick back shoulders (my rip blades along with another combo blade have them).
It makes sense that they slow down the work of brake but from your experience seems the brake still does its job.

[Tom Ewell]

Not to be critical but that makes me cringe just looking at what you were attempting. That in my opinion was a dangerous cut to attempt. Just how it looks to me. Glad you only got a nick.

SawStop3.jpg

Gotta agree, thankfully the saw did it's job and saved some hand parts but that's a cut I'd not have made regardless of safety features.

I'm a little surprised that someone with his experience would even attempt that cut, what's more disheartening that he's done it multiple times with success and figured it was a good way to do it.

[Mike Henderson]

[QUOTE=Alan Schwabacher;2570029]

If you go back to page 1 and look at the photo, you'll notice that every 5th tooth has a bump behind it. That's the depth limiting shoulder. The idea is that if you try to cut too fast, that will hit the work and prevent cutting too deeply. Usually this is good, but with a Sawstop it can prevent the aluminum block engaging the teeth completely as quickly, slowing down the blade stopping mechanism. Though apparently it still works pretty well.

Ah, okay. I see it now. Thanks.

Mike

[David Helm]

I looked at the cut and immediately said to myself, "why not use the bandsaw for that one?"

[Mike Henderson]

I looked at the cut and immediately said to myself, "why not use the bandsaw for that one?"

Because on a dovetail marker you need the sides to be parallel and smooth. The table saw does that - the bandsaw does not. The other side of the dovetail square was square to the front and straight on the side. The side I was cutting was sticking out and needed a bit taken off.

I also thought of using my Ridgid belt sander but I always wind up with the sides non-parallel.

Mike

[Rick Potter]

Congrats on a wise saw purchase Mike. We all like to think we will not make a mistake, but deep down, we all know that accidents happen. Glad it was a minor cut.

I am gonna make a quickie sled for small parts, like I should have years ago.

Thanks for the incentive.

Rick


PS: I recently imposed two new rules for my SS.

1: I only use actual 10" blades, so I don't have to fiddle with the space adjustment. 10"=254MM.

2: No safety bumps.

[Ben Rivel]

That was a daring cut to try and make. Glad youre okay!

[Jim Riseborough]

Looks to me like the teeth in that part of the blade were just ripped off by the brake. It's possible the brake "bounced" before grabbing the teeth. I haven't found the carbide teeth anywhere. Yes, I did have eye protection on.
Attachment 338260


st immediately.]

Its strange it bit and sheared those teeth off, skipped over the big tooth (or it just plowed thru the aluminum brake, and then stopped in the next set). I wonder if the little teeth are buried in the brake somehow.

[Mike Henderson]

Its strange it bit and sheared those teeth off, skipped over the big tooth (or it just plowed thru the aluminum brake, and then stopped in the next set). I wonder if the little teeth are buried in the brake somehow.

I haven't separated the brake and blade yet but probably will if I send the brake to SawStop (to get a free replacement). I'll let you know if I find the teeth in the brake.

I hadn't thought that they might be in the brake - I just assumed they went off somewhere - but your comment is good thinking.

Mike

[Update: I separated the brake. No sign of the missing teeth in the brake.]

[Mike Henderson]

I contacted SawStop and they still provide a free replacement brake for one that saved a finger. The process is as follows:

1. Contact SawStop service (service at sawstop.com) and get an RMA number

2. Go to http://www.sawstop.com/support/report-a-save and fill out the "finger save report form". You need the RMA number to fill out this form.

3. Send your brake - without the saw blade - to
SawStop,LLC
ATTN:SVC RMA CASE ID xx-xxxxx (replace the xx-xxxxx with your RMA #)
11555Myslony Street
Tualatin,OR 97062

Mike

[Ben Rivel]

Awesome, good to know!