Freud Dado Blade and Table Saw

[Don Emmerling]

I have a Delta table saw (5/8" arbor) and I bought the 8" dado set. The saw and dado blades work fine, until I go to take the dado blade out. The last time it took me about 15 minutes of walking the blade from side to side to get it off the arbor. It would only move a little bit with each wobble from side to side. My regular saw blades from various vendors do not do this, so I am sure the dado blade is the culprit. To fix this I thought of mounting (cole jaws) the two outside blades to a jig on my lathe and then trying to sand the blade hole a bit to give me a little room on that saw arbor. Is this a good idea or bad and am I missing a more simple solution to this.

Thanks

[Jared Sankovich]

Is one or more of the shims dropping into the threads and catching? Or are you having the problem with just a single outside blade?

[Lee Schierer]

Is one or more of the shims dropping into the threads and catching? Or are you having the problem with just a single outside blade?

My thoughts exactly.

[glenn bradley]

I would be more tempted to take a small scrap of 400 grit sandpaper and ease the sharp edge at the plate to hole junction. Freud blades just seem to fit really well. A very, very, minor softening of that edge can help you along. In my experience the problem will just go away after a bit of use as well.

[Jim Dwight]

A dremel with a little sanding drum seem better to take a bit of material out of the hole.

[Jon Endres]

Mine does the same thing (I have the 6" set). I've learned to live with it, it's simply a well-machined blade and a tight fit on the arbor.

[Al Launier]

I also think that lightly chamfering the edge of the hole with high grit emory, or a round stone might help. I'd be reluctant to open up the dia. of a nice fitting hole. Plus, I wouldn't do anything to the arbor since the other blades fit & remove well.

[Jim Andrew]

Had the same issue with my oshlun dado set. Just slightly tight on the arbor. Luckily I have a machinist friend, and he used a reamer to remove about 20/1000 from the hole. Last time I used it, worked great.

[Don Emmerling]

No, this is happening before I get to the threads. I have to walk off each component of the dado one by one. A very tedious task. You cannot pull them off as a cluster. Thanks for the response though.

[Don Emmerling]

That is what I was thinking. I will try some of the fixes recommended here. Such a good brain trust here to rely on.

Don

[John C Bush]

Infinity Dadonator did the same thing. Has progressively gotten easier with use.

[Howard Acheson]

Freud Dado Blades are manufactured to very close tolerances for the arbor holes. This is so that the blade can mill flat bottomed dados. Any "slop" in the fit can mean a dado will produce tracks in the bottom.

Some folks have taken the dado set to a machine shop and had the hole reamed slightly larger. Others have used 400 grit emery paper and manually enlarged the hole. This takes a long time.

[Mel Fulks]

I've had good luck just putting a little "never seize" stuff on with a Q tip. One aplication lasts for years.

[Wayne Jolly]

Just my penny's worth, but having to walk if off the arbor is a very small price to pay for ensuring that all of the individual blades are registered with each other, thus helping to ensure a very flat bottomed dado.


Wayne

[Daniel O'Neill]

Both my chippers and my shims do this. I think one of the shims had fallen on a thread once and blocked the chipper. I didn't realize it at the time but when I tightened it down it bent the shim a little. It was a terrible pain to get off. Still is actually lol. But they're on tight. If they were easy to take off as a group then I'd worry that the teeth would smash into each other during use. IMO