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Thread: Does Waterlox Original Finish/Sealer "even out" when it cures?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    Does Waterlox Original Finish/Sealer "even out" when it cures?

    I recently sanded down my coffee table and topped off with Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish using the wipe on method. I put about 6-7 coats on (on top of existing finish) and don't want to go much thicker, and you can see some minor swirl marks and a few small spots a that are a little duller in the light. I was thinking though that as the table loses some of its gloss level, the appearance would "even out". Would that happen?

  2. #2
    Michael

    I have been using Waterlox for a while now. 6-7 coats of it seems like too many for anything I know of. It is not designed to be applied like a pure tongue oil (i.e. the more coats the better). Waterlox should probably not have more then 4 coats. While the folks at waterlox recommend their oil for floors it is a poor choice for any floor that is going to be walked on, it is a great choice for there sales staff. Waterlox creates a very soft finish at best. I like to use it on picture frames which I hope will never get walked on. I do use it on low traffic end tables as well.

    Waterlox evens out VERY well after the first coat on wood. Pretty well after the second coat. OK after the third coat. Not so well on the fourth coat and after that. I do not recommend after that at all with waterlox.

    I always spray it out of $10 HVLP gun off a Porter Cable compressor, after the second coat and get EXCELLENT results out of that.

    Clean your gun if you expect good results for the next spray or buy a new one.

    Rob

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Kansas City
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    Waterlox is not an oil. It is a varnish made with oil (like all varnishes). Oil + Resin + Heat = Varnish.
    Last edited by Stan Calow; 05-31-2016 at 10:08 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Issaquah, Washington
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    1,320
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Wachtell View Post
    Michael

    I have been using Waterlox for a while now. 6-7 coats of it seems like too many for anything I know of. It is not designed to be applied like a pure tongue oil (i.e. the more coats the better). Waterlox should probably not have more then 4 coats. While the folks at waterlox recommend their oil for floors it is a poor choice for any floor that is going to be walked on, it is a great choice for there sales staff. Waterlox creates a very soft finish at best. I like to use it on picture frames which I hope will never get walked on. I do use it on low traffic end tables as well.

    Waterlox evens out VERY well after the first coat on wood. Pretty well after the second coat. OK after the third coat. Not so well on the fourth coat and after that. I do not recommend after that at all with waterlox.

    I always spray it out of $10 HVLP gun off a Porter Cable compressor, after the second coat and get EXCELLENT results out of that.

    Clean your gun if you expect good results for the next spray or buy a new one.

    Rob
    I'm must respectfully disagree with Robert's view of Waterlox and high use/abuse areas. Original Sealer/Finish was created as a floor finish and is an excellent choice for tables and surfaces that may be subject to abuse. I finished one counter in my shop with OSF to show clients how tough it is. One cannot scar the surface with a thumbnail and the surface is impervious to water staining (I routinely have a sweating glass on it with no coaster and no ill effects). Waterlox has been my "Go To" finish for custom tables and surfaces that will experience everyday use. It does take a really long time to fully cure, my rule of thumb is to revisit the piece after 6 months (about the same time frame for the finish to reach its final sheen) and perform a cursory final rubout

    Regarding Michael's question, I would suggest waiting 30 days and then rubout the surface using MicroMesh.

    FWIW IMHO- 7 coats is kind of overkill and the finish starts to look too much like a poly type "plastic".

  5. #5
    No the swirls do not go away. That happens if you work the finish too much. The thicker the build, the less forgiving it is for swirls.

    The sheen may settle down a little.

    Waterlox is a fine finish when durability is needed. It is not soft. It is hard and withstands moderate abuse. I have a bar top with it and I have kids who write, eat, and do everything on it and it has held up well.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Tomball, TX (30 miles NNW Houston)
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    Waterlox Original Sealer finish is a WIPE-ON VARNISH. 6-7 coats of a wipe on is about the same as 2 properly applied coats of varnish. That's barely enough thickness to rubout...

    FYI for Robert. Waterlox is a phenolic resin/Tung oil varnish that is MUCH harder than the polys at the big box stores. Phenolic resin varnishes are the hardest; then, Alkyd resin which are clearer LESS yellowing and harder than poly; which is tough, not hard...
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Holmes View Post
    Waterlox is a phenolic resin/Tung oil varnish that is MUCH harder than the polys at the big box stores. Phenolic resin varnishes are the hardest; then, Alkyd resin which are clearer LESS yellowing and harder than poly; which is tough, not hard...
    This is not true.
    Please cite a reference that supports this assertion.

    Blessings.

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