Cutting Board Question

[Mark R Webster]

About 3 years ago I made a large cutting board for a local caterer. I used hard “rock” maple, gluing 1” thick, 3/4” strips side to side with Titebond III “water-proof” glue. After milling the strips to just over the correct size, I let them sit for a few days to let them “move”. I then final milled the strips making sure all the surfaces met correctly especially near the ends. “I am aware of the technique of planing a hollow to be sure that the ends have tension for tight joints.” Once the board was completed, I saturated with hot mineral oil several times. The caterer has asked me to make him another board and I asked for the first board back so I could duplicate it for him. I noticed several of the glue joints had failed near the ends. I asked him if he had periodically oiled the board and he admitted he had not. So for the past 3 years it has been washed over and over but never oiled. Did the joints fail because of something I did or didn’t do?....or with repeated washings and no ongoing maintenance one should expect the glue joints to inevitably fail…. especially at the ends. Thanks

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd suspect the (lack of)oil.
I have two cutting boards that I made at the same time.
My son has one & it never got oiled.
I have the other and it gets oiled regularly.

His lasted about a year then fell apart.

Mine looks like new.

[Dan Hahr]

You don't need a hollow when gluing up cutting boards, or a sprung joint. With all the movement involved in an end grain board, aim for dead flat and square and perfect clamping pressure. It is hard to say if it your fault as the owner could have subjected it to serious abuse.

Dan

[Mark Blatter]

I built a couple of cutting boards about 8 years ago using hard maple and just regular wood glue. All of them are still in great shape, no splits or warping. One of the sat on the counter in water and warped, but once it dried out it flattened out.

The difference is that I used a product called Good Stuff. A link is below. It is food safe and is a durable finish. I put on a couple of coats 8 years ago, and haven't done anything with the cutting boards since.

http://www.butcherblock.com/product/...-good-stuff-2/

[Barry McFadden]

I've made quite a few cutting boards and have always used Gorilla Glue on them and finished with a food safe oil from Ikea or Lee Valley. I have used 2 of them in the kitchen for over 5 years and have never re-oiled them. Sometimes they sit in water for a bit when I'm washing them and I have never had a joint fail. I see people that have bought one from me and they also say all joints are good. I personally think the Gorilla Glue is the reason.

[larry senen]

Many years ago i used resorcinol glue. It was the only one that was rated fully waterproof. I guess time marches on.

[glenn bradley]

I have many boards in use by friends and family. No sprung joints, no voo-doo required. The only board that showed signs of distress was the one not oiled . . . ever.

[Mike Cutler]

I doubt it was anything you did. Understand that this board was being used in "business" application, and most cutting boards will never see the use/abuse that board has seen. It's probably gone through more use cycles in three years being used by a Caterer, than it will ever see in a home kitchen.
That said, now that you know that your next board for him is going to see the same abuse, I would change your adhesive, and finish, to something a little more robust, and requiring less maintenance. He's obviously not going to do it.

[Mark R Webster]

Thanks everyone for your responses, Mike... do you have a recommendation for an adhesive other than Titebond III Ultimate "waterproof". I was considering Mark's Good Stuff as a finish... which looks pretty good.

[Mark W Pugh]

Thanks everyone for your responses, Mike... do you have a recommendation for an adhesive other than Titebond III Ultimate "waterproof". I was considering Mark's Good Stuff as a finish... which looks pretty good.

Looks like Barry's post (#5) could be a place to start for adhesive. Gorilla Glue.

[John T Barker]

I go along with the fellow who suggested imagining what a pro kitchen does. I think law dictates that food prep surfaces and serving vessels go though those ultra hot dishwashers. Even if they didn't do that it may have been soaked for while in hot soapy water...not good. I go over mine with a soapy sponge and occasionally a chlorine wipe.

On future builds I wouldn't hollow the belly of the joint. I think that would cause it to come apart.

[Mark R Webster]

Another thanks for all the suggestions and info.

[Yonak Hawkins]

Considering the usage, on the next one I believe I would use a mechanical means of holding it together.

[Wes Ramsey]

One my church's kitchens has a Boos Brothers cutting board that was in plum awful shape. It also never gets oiled and most of the joints are split at the ends. I took it home and planed it back out flat and gave it a good oil soak, but unless it gets maintained regularly it will eventually fail. Not much you can do if the owner won't take care of it. On the other hand, a business owner probably doesn't expect his equipment to last forever and accepts that it will eventually need to be replaced.

I'd meet him in the middle and try a different glue as others suggested and maybe give him a sample of the oil you treat them with. For the few I've made I've always asked the owners to bring them back to me if they show the slightest inking of joint failure so I can fix before it gets too bad. You don't want food getting in those joints. Haven't had one come back yet, but I've provided a small sample of my oil and wax mix with each of the boards. Hopefully they're using it

[mreza Salav]

I have made several cutting boards (all using Titebound III) and the oldest one (that we use daily) has had joint fails at a few places near the edge. I oiled it maybe twice a year.
Another one that I made had a lot of stress when moved from one city to another that the a few of the wood pieces just split open (they had no crack in them before, I'm sure).
I think a cutting board goes through a lot of stress due to moisture change. I would reconsider using a different glue for the next one.