Elbows

[Pat Barry]

I appreciate seeing the demonstrated practice and positive discussion of the techniques so much more than hearing the personal attacks and vendetta's

[Kees Heiden]

There is a thin line between personal attacks and spirited discussion. A lot depends on HOW you write something. For example in this particular instance, experience with the technique is the basis of your opinion. When someone else thinks your experience in this particular aspect of the craft isn't relevant enough, then that is part of the discussion. But you can also write it in such a way that is a denigrating comment.

[James Pallas]

Kees I went back and read your first post again just to make sure I had it right. Your are working on rough lumber so that is the conversation. This is what I do. I site down the board to look for high spots first. I than take those obvious high spots down using a jack. Cross grain along the grain which ever is better. I than can take a full pass to see what I get. If I run into bumps that stop the plane I work those some more and than try again. I really dislike hitting those plane stoppers, it hurts my back. I was taught it's much like grading the garden you take the humps out first before you try to level it out. Finish planing is another entirely different job, like using a shovel and a rake shovel fist, rake to smooth. Hope this makes some sense. I was hoping to refine my technique with this thread and it went off topic somehow.
Jim

[Mike Holbrook]

I have been inspired. I am working lots of reps with dumbbells in positions that I think will work the correct muscle groups. I am working out a shoulder issue. I think my issue relates to my age and trying to catch German Shepherds moving 35MPH on a bite sleeve, not the woodworking. It always seems to me that even small amounts of exercise and stretching help faster than I think they will. I am relearning exercise programs that stretch and firm more than build muscle mass.

I am interested in working with splits from logs, which is another level of rough wood. I think splitting skill is worth learning. I had very real trouble with it starting out. I am very impressed with how accurately skilled people, like Drew Langsner can split logs. It helps a great deal to start with a log with good grain structure. Pieces with grain running from one end to the other can be a real pleasure to work.

I have been experimenting with cambers that are a little less in the center and a little more rounded at the corners.. A camber like this seems to make it possible to get more of the camber down into the wood, since the total depth is less. This type camber is easier to push through the wood than a flat blade, especially if the bed angle, or in the case of a BU plane the combined blade & bed angle, is not too high. The center of the blade makes a relatively level cut and the edges leave feathered edges that I can live with.

[Kees Heiden]

Ok, how about another video? This time jointing. I used David Charlesworth's technique. Keeping the elbow near to my body and walking the plane along the plank. For this type of work it is a very usefull technique, gives precision when you need it and the relatively narrow shaving makes it doable. The walking along sure does need some practice!

[david charlesworth]

Kees,

Nice video.

I think you would find this so much easier with a metal plane. 5 1/2, 6,7,

The center of gravity is lower, the thumb is much nearer the edge, the fence, underneath must surely be easier.

My elbow, (or forearm) is not near the body, it is drawn against it for the majority of the stroke.

Best wishes,
David

[Kees Heiden]

Then it's all part of the learning proces. I made these planes this winter and they work very well. Not giving up on them because it might be a bit more difficult.

[Luke Dupont]

That's an awesome plane, Kees! I may be following your example in the not so distant future, as I have a few excess plane irons laying about.

The planing looks like a bit of a bumpy ride in places, but it looks very consistent.

[david charlesworth]

I am not suggesting you give up on them, just that for this job a metal plane would be easier.

By the way, the jerkiness in one or two passes would be cured by arm against ribs.

best wishes,
David

[Kees Heiden]

On the next one I'll take more care. The jerkines was in spots with strong grain reversals.

[Kees Heiden]

And now I just need a lot more practice. But I feel to be on the right road now thanks to all the help.

[david charlesworth]

I suspect that jerkiness is reduced when the mass of the body is directly linked to the plane.

As opposed to by a chain of flexible levers. Forearm, elbow, arm, shoulder.

best wishes,
David

[Patrick Chase]

At the risk of re-stirring the hornets' nest, there's one thing I think hasn't been discussed enough: Reading and reacting to the wood.

I was roughing a piece the other night, and paying closer than normal attention to my movements because of this thread (sorry, no video) and realized at some point that I was adjusting my stroke based on the wood without even thinking about it. After the first couple strokes (if not before) you pretty much know where you're going to hit peak resistance, and you can exploit that knowledge to make sure that you're in a good position (skeleton stacked with arms neither over-compressed nor over-extended, driving from the hips/center) where it counts.

This goes back to the sports argument: You generally can't and shouldn't try for some ideal static position throughout the stroke. You should be dynamic, but make sure you're where you need to be when it matters (i.e. when the grain suddenly goes haywire and the cutting force doubles).

Unfortunately it's hard to tell how the wood is behaving in a video of somebody else's work, and I think that's why we're all having such a hard time breaking down footage. It's obvious when somebody messes up (the plane comes to a screeching halt, with no drive from the center to power through the obstruction), but it's *really hard* to spot the adaptations that people make to avoid that.