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Thread: Avoiding having 23 gauge pins go out the side?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Avoiding having 23 gauge pins go out the side?

    I am making a frame for my son's college diploma out of curupay. I have never used it before, but the color is great with the matting.
    I have cut the pieces, and have to route them and glue them together.
    I have never trusted just glue for frames and intended on reinforcing the corners with a couple pins. I drilled pilot holes with a drill just under the size of the pin in a piece of scrap; when I hammered the pin it, it split. So that is no good.
    I tried some #23 pins from a Grex nailer; but about half shoot out the side.
    So my question... are the pins more likely to go or the side if I have the nailer parallel to the grain, or perpendicular; or doesn't it much matter?

    This might be my opportunity to learn to use a spline...


  2. #2
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    I'd use a spline OR drill a countersunk hole, drive in a screw and plug the hole with a plug cut from the same wood aligning the grain of the plug to blend in.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #3
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    +1 for splines. Their not that hard to do.

    Good Luck with your project.
    Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.

    Enjoy Life...

  4. #4
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    I feel your pain. I haven't used my pin nailer yet (Christmas gift) but I don't think I've ever used my brad nailer that I didn't blow a nail out the side. FWIW, I think holding the nailer perpendicular to the piece works best. Also, don't use a nail/brad/pin any longer than is necessary.

    As an alternative to pin nails, consider putting contrasting keys in the corners of the frame. That's what I normally do with small boxes, etc.
    Cody


    Logmaster LM-1 sawmill, 30 hp Kioti tractor w/ FEL, Stihl 290 chainsaw, 300 bf cap. Solar Kiln

  5. #5
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    Look at the chisel tip on the pins. The chisel edge should not be aligned WITH the grain. That's what causes the blow out.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill White View Post
    Look at the chisel tip on the pins. The chisel edge should not be aligned WITH the grain. That's what causes the blow out.
    Bill

    False.

    The chisel should be perpendicular to the grain so it cuts through it and is less prone to following the grain. True of any chisel point nail. Also helps prevent splitting.

    How much it really well matter on a micro pin I don't know. They get knocked off course pretty easily.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill White View Post
    Look at the chisel tip on the pins. The chisel edge should not be aligned WITH the grain. That's what causes the blow out.
    Bill
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    False.

    The chisel should be perpendicular to the grain so it cuts through it and is less prone to following the grain. True of any chisel point nail. Also helps prevent splitting.

    How much it really well matter on a micro pin I don't know. They get knocked off course pretty easily.
    I think you're both saying the same thing. Perhaps Martin missed the "not" in Bill's comment.

    Mike

    [In any case, I don't think 23 gauge pins are going to hold a lot. I mostly use them to hold something until the glue dries (when it's hard to clamp).]
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  8. #8
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    The only reason I ever use my pin nailer is when I cannot easily clamp the joint. The glue is stronger than a pin nail.
    No PHD, but I have a DD 214

  9. #9
    Also, use good quality pins (Grex, etc). I had every other pin go sideways until I tossed out the Harbor Freight ones - haven't had one go sideways, since.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    Also, use good quality pins (Grex, etc). I had every other pin go sideways until I tossed out the Harbor Freight ones - haven't had one go sideways, since.
    I'll second that......... you buy cheap, you get cheap!

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    I think you're both saying the same thing. Perhaps Martin missed the "not" in Bill's comment.

    Mike

    [In any case, I don't think 23 gauge pins are going to hold a lot. I mostly use them to hold something until the glue dries (when it's hard to clamp).]
    Ooop. Correct. I missed the "not" part.

  12. #12
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    If you are doing mitered corners, remember that you are essentially gluing an end grain joint. Coat both sides of the joint with glue to prevent glue starvation. You can also size the joints first with diluted glue that will soak in and seal the wood a bit before you actually join the parts.

    If you are still worried, a small bead of clear silicon about 1" long going both ways from each corner to adhere the glass will make the frame considerably stronger.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  13. #13
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    Thank you Mike.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  14. #14
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    I have used pins as well as finish nail guns. The pins have never failed me, but I don't expect them to hold in tension.
    If real holding power is needed, I use a nail gun.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I have used pins as well as finish nail guns. The pins have never failed me, but I don't expect them to hold in tension.
    If real holding power is needed, I use a nail gun.
    I figure that if you put a couple pins in from both sides at least one will be shear. And while they still won't be particularly strong, there won't be all that much weight to hold.
    Yeah, the glue ought to be adequate, but I like to be safe.

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