Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Fluted Cherry Vase Project

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968

    Fluted Cherry Vase Project

    Have a 12" cherry vase I'm going to finish up tomorrow. My idea is to add flutes to the piece and then dye the flute cavities probably with a brush. I know I'll get a few spots at the top edge of the flute where the color will bleed over to the top surface or I'll spill a drop of dye off the brush etc. etc. Going to use the Artisan dyes from CSUSA that are alcohol based. Not sure how far these dyes penetrate but questions is: will these mistake areas sand out or will I need to take the surface down with a gouge?
    Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Carlisle, Pa
    Posts
    285
    Blog Entries
    1
    Perhaps you can apply finish and or wax to the area prior to fluting and staining. The finish and wax will help prevent the stain from obsorbing into the wood area other then the flutes.

    All the Best
    Curt
    Last edited by Curtis Myers; 06-18-2016 at 5:17 AM.

  3. #3
    I suggest looking at pics of old traditional fluting first. They are deep and close together,and show well just by shadow and light. Most of the modern treatments with paint are far apart.

  4. #4
    I love the artisan dyes, and use them a lot ... Airbrush and brush on. One thing to note is that they are not like paint. They will bleed along grain lines, so keeping the color only in the flutes will be near impossible.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    Thanks for the replies Curtis & Mel. See next reply for further info.
    Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Rose View Post
    I love the artisan dyes, and use them a lot ... Airbrush and brush on. One thing to note is that they are not like paint. They will bleed along grain lines, so keeping the color only in the flutes will be near impossible.
    I tried a couple test pieces that I ran over the router table and your advice was spot on Phil. So I decided to not to do anything color-wise with this piece because there's enough gum stains and streaks naturally in the piece. Here's how this one turned out today in spite of a 4 hour power outage.
    cv1.jpgcv2.jpgcv3.jpgcv6.jpgcv7.jpg
    Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Somewhere in the Land of Lincoln
    Posts
    2,563
    Nice job Dave. It looks like an art piece you might see in a museum. I agree with your assessment that there is plenty of definition and contrast in the wood to stand on it's own merits. Plus I know if it were me and the dye treatment didn't go well I would be frustrated at myself for not leaving well enough alone. Of course that would require me to get to your skill level before that would happen. Thanks for sharing this.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Central NC
    Posts
    492
    I use frisket film (craft store) and an airbrush (Harbor Freight) to get the results you are after. After you cut the flutes through the frisket film go around all the edges and press them back down to ensure a good seal. Next lightly apply the dye with the airbrush. If you do multiple light coats it's less likely to bleed.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    Thanks for the idea Bill. I'll have to keep that in mind for future projects.
    Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA

  10. #10
    Nice work David, I love the flutes!!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Ambridge, PA
    Posts
    968
    Thanks Daryl.
    Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •