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Thread: If You Have A 7-1/2, Why Would You Need An 8?

  1. #16
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    Thanks for all the helpful and informative replies.

    My experience with the #7-1/2 has been pretty good. At one time I preferred it to every other plane I own because it performed so well. Maybe the mass of the iron or just the overall mass of the plane helped move it through the cut better. And with an adjustable mouth, tearout wasn't a problem.

    But then I picked up a #3 bronze I bought just before we moved. I have lately put in more time and effort sharpening edge tools and the #3 was razor sharp. When I ran the #3 down the edge of a board, I immediately fell in love. I only have two BD planes, the #3 and a #4 (cast iron), both L-N. The reason I stayed away from BD planes is I didn't understand how to properly tune them. My experience with the #3 led me to tune up the #4 the same way and I'm now finding the BD planes much more satisfying to work with.

    And that's how my curiosity about the #8 came about.

    I have, on occasion, flattened boards by hand. I start with a #62, then move to the #7-1/2 and finished with a #164, all BU planes. (I'm thinking I should switch out the #164 with a #4 and see how it goes.) But now I'm trying to decide if the #8 would make that process more pleasurable to do or if I should just work with what I have because there really wouldn't be enough of a difference to justify the cost.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  2. #17
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    But now I'm trying to decide if the #8 would make that process more pleasurable to do or if I should just work with what I have because there really wouldn't be enough of a difference to justify the cost.
    Is there any chance you will be able to go to a Lie-Nielsen tool event in the future to 'test drive' a #8?

    The other option would be to search out one of the larger planes, #6 through #8, at yard sales and flea markets. I don't like paying the collector market prices.

    What is that old saying? All things come to those with patience. For me that seems to include reasonable prices on used tools.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Julie,

    If what you are currently using, is working well, stick with it. Use your funds to try some different wood species. After a few months/years, you may feel the need to try some different tools, but first fully learn what you have (turn a deaf ear to the blog-o-sphere, as most there seem to always want to tout the latest/greatest, often ignoring the centuries of extreme craftsmanship with tools made not as finr as what you now have).
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    SoCal
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    Another option would be to acquire a vintage Stanley # 8 from either Tablesaw Tom or from whomever and then have Tom grind it. As a see it, if you use a jointer mostly for medium or coarse work then the chipbreaker is not an important player. If you want to get into final smoothing range with a jointer then, yes, you'll want the chipbreaker to play. Using the Tom approach gets you an equally good plane for less than half the price even considering shipping both ways. The only difference is that LN is ductile cast iron and the Stanleys are not. IMO & YMWV

  5. #20
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    Aug 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    But now I'm trying to decide if the #8 would make that process more pleasurable to do....
    I think the answer to your question is no, it will not make the process more pleasurable, unless of course you are a masochist, in which case this beast will be perfect for you/

  6. #21
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    I think the answer to your question is no, it will not make the process more pleasurable, unless of course you are a masochist, in which case this beast will be perfect for you/
    Depends on whether "pleasurable" includes the amount of time spent doing it. The #8 will get some (wide) jobs done faster due to its width, which counts for something IMO.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    Depends on whether "pleasurable" includes the amount of time spent doing it. The #8 will get some (wide) jobs done faster due to its width, which counts for something IMO.
    Patrick; can you explain your logic in having a #7bd; a #7 1/2bu; and a #8bd.

    From my perspective if I were looking at purchasing an LN bench plane for jointing and final flattening of long boards it would be an LN bd #6; its far more practical;with its 18" sole; a 2 3/8" iron; and a lighter weight of 7 1/2lbs.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 06-22-2016 at 12:22 AM.

  8. #23
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    Jun 2010
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    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    Yep...they be big-
    SDC14209.jpg
    I was using this #8c to finish tapering a few legs. Not fun..
    SDC15192.jpg
    Used mine for a few years.....just was too big for what I do.

  9. #24
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    Dec 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie Simpson View Post
    Patrick; can you explain your logic in having a #7bd; a #7 1/2bu; and a #8bd.

    From my perspective if I were looking at purchasing an LN bench plane for jointing and final flattening of long boards it would be an LN bd #6; its far more practical;with its 18" sole; a 2 3/8" iron; and a lighter weight of 7 1/2lbs.

    Stewie;
    Who said there's any "logic" involved?

    I like the 8 for big stuff, and I like the 7 for edges. If I had it to do again I probably wouldn't have the BU jointer at all. I got it back when I thought I needed the option of high edge angles for tearout control. And if I were being ruthlessly honest with myself I'd acknowledge that the 7 is adequate.

    The 6 is 18" long, at which point you're starting to give up some ease of jointing long edges. You can obviously do it (see the other thread about #4...) but that's a compromise I personally don't need or want to make.

  10. #25
    Since you have a 7-1/2 I would think hard before getting a no. 8. I have both the 7 and the 8. One advantage of the slightly wider blade on the no. 8 is that it may help in jointing really wide stock or in bringing a box's sides to the same height when the walls are thick. It may be that a no. 8 would span the width around the corners fully where the 7-1/2 might not if the walls were really thick. I'd guess the likelihood of that scenario occurring would be small so I would not buy the no. 8 unless you came across a need for it. I keep a normal frog on the no. 8 and a high angle frog on the no. 7, to better handle different types of wood.

  11. #26
    Fit to be tied.

    I have a LN #7 pre-production plane. You couldn't convince me that a #8 would be an upgrade. BD bench planes work. I used my #7 to joint a 5.5' joint today. Perfection.

  12. #27
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    I think the answer to your question is no, it will not make the process more pleasurable, unless of course you are a masochist, in which case this beast will be perfect for you/
    While I may have done some things in the past that caused others to call me a masochist, it was never my intention to beat myself up. I just didn't realize what I was getting myself into. That being said, there are enough guys here saying the #8 can really beat you up that I need to heed their warning. And I like Tony Z's idea of putting the money into wood. My stock is running very low.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

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