Gloss clear coat on painted surface

[Mike Sangirardi]

Hi All,
I have joined looking for help on finishing my project. I am about to clear coat finish cornhole boards. I am thinking polycrilic is the right choice but I have read stories of people having real bad results. If it goes terribly wrong I wont have the option to just sand it off and try again...at least not without tears in my eyes. Some of my concerns (at least the ones that I am aware of) are as follows:

I hear that it sets up too fast and leaves terrible brush strokes...wondering if there is an ideal temp/conditions to finish? Some have suggested going a little heavy but I am concerned because the stripes are at slightly different heights (there are 5 coats of red on top of the white background) and would be worried about run in that scenario.

I do not have a spray setup so that is not an option...I am wondering what the right (best) brush might be? I know the instructions say a synthetic brush but would soft or hard bristles be better? I have seen many forums suggest foam but that seems risky as it might introduce air bubbles. Some have even suggested paint pads.

I have even seen someone suggest a fine mist spritz of windex over the top before it sets....the benefit, if I understood it correctly, was the soap helped it reduce surface tension and find level better...but i could have misinterpreted.

I am understanding that the can of polycrylic needs to be gently stirred to avoid bubbles.

I am wondering how long should I let the paint cure before doing the clear coat...it is latex paint. Does it need a full cure prior to the polycrylic or is there no advantage of waiting?

I have never really finished anything like this so I am just trying to be as informed as possible. Thanks in advance...I really appreciate any advice and pointers.

Regards,
Mike

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, I am a bit hesitant to recommend clear coating over the latex paint. As a general rule, it is not a good idea to put a harder coating over a softer coating. Do you really need to clear coat? If the paint you used is rated for outdoors, it should stand up to the use it will get.

If you are worried about brushing on the polycyclic, it is available in a spray can as well.

Finally, if your paint is fully cured, you shouldn't get any colour transfer. Also, letting the paint fully cure will give you the best chance of a good result as funny things can happen when ovetcoating too soon. Cheers

[Conrad Fiore]

As Wayne stated, Polycrylic by Minwax is available in rattle cans and that may be your best way to go to clearcoat these items.
Absolutely wait for the latex to cure before putting on the clearcoat. I personally would wait at least two weeks and keep the items in a spot where they will get plenty of air circulation. Don't wrap them up in hopes of protecting them while you wait for them to cure.
Finally you can make up a test board with the paint you used and try out the Polycrylic on that before attempting on your finished items. Always test on scrap that was painted with the product(s) you used.

[Jim Becker]

The cautions already stated about applying a clear coat over latex paint most certainly apply, although if you used "flat" or "matt", things will be better. And given these are decorative items, there is, IMHO, slightly less concern over the idea than there would be for heavy use items like cabinetry. I will also recommend you go the spray can route for this or to spray the Polycrylic with an HPLV gun. (it sprays nicely) I almost never brush a water borne finish...

[Mike Sangirardi]

Wayne/Conrad/Jim,
Thanks for the advice. I will take your suggestions and certainly let them fully cure before moving forward with the clear. Being honest I am surprised receiving the advice to use rattle cans...but that's why i ask. I will begin researching HVLP sprayers...suppose it would be good investment long term but certainly did not want to spend the money at this time. The red and white are flat finishes and the blue is eggshell Regal Select (BM samples only come in eggshell). I have a rattle can polycrylic of satin finish i used to spray the edges after having taped to try and get a more crisp line...I wonder if I could spray that satin first and then use a semi or high polycrylic afterwards and still get the extra sheen...Any thoughts? Also, i noticed the can I have "spit" when I first started spraying with it despite having shook vigorously for the 2 minutes...I will be careful on any additional cans. I also found that it was somewhat tough, even though only spraying a very little mainly focused on the tape edge, to not get drips. Is it worth considering can spraying and then doing a brush "tip off" as indicated on the brush type instructions...probably not...just thinking out loud??

The reason for wanting a clear gloss is two fold...and these are both equally important/not in any order. First...long term protection...that's a simple one. Second...the boards need a slick/somewhat slippery finish. Think bowling alley lane or fast putting green. If the board has too much friction and the bags do not slide it takes an entire (and important IMO) dynamic of the game away. I would have used a high gloss paint but thought the extra flow of a high gloss would have meant more bleed and lines that were possibly not as crisp....not sure that would have made a huge difference but that was the thought process using flat...figured could get the sheen right afterwards.

Again, thanks for having taken the time to share your advice.

Mike

[Wayne Lomman]

Mike, I even surprised myself advocating a spray can, but it still looks the best option given the product and your available equipment.

In answer to your questions, to avoid getting runs, apply multiple coats 'wet on wet' which means spray a coat, let it get just tacky and then spray another coat. Repeat as required. This is a proven technique for getting more build in one application. It allows the curing process to partially complete as you go and allows the volatile component of the coating material to release in stages. If you get a drip o an edge, by all means use a brush to touch it off, but I wouldn't use one elsewhere.

As far as gloss level is concerned, you can change the gloss level with later coats if you want, but you will still get slickness from a lower gloss finish which in any case will gloss up with use. Cheers

[Conrad Fiore]

If you want to totally avoid runs with the spray (rattle cans or HVLP), spray the item laying flat. The gloss factor will have no impact on how smooth or friction free the surface is if you are worried about satin vs. gloss. After you have the surface with a good "smooth" clear coat, wait a week or two and then use a good hard paste wax on the surface. That will make it slick as a whistle.

[Jim Becker]

Mike, I completely missed the fact that these were game pieces, rather than just decorative pieces. It doesn't change my thoughts, although I'd likely do "more coats" of the clear finish. Spraying is ultimately the better way to get this done, especially with a water borne product.