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Thread: Spokeshaves

  1. #1
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    Spokeshaves

    Yes, I know, search function - however, I am interested in general opinions and information about what you all have in your shop and what you use them for. I'm interested in getting a spokeshave for 'general spokeshave-y work', but there seem to be a million different kinds. So I thought it might be interesting to get a more general overview from those of you who use them regularly and what might be the best options for an all-purpose type of spokeshave to get started with. All of the threads I have found seem to be pretty specific about a particular item or genre of spokeshave, so that's my justification for starting a new thread.

  2. #2
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    Howdy Adam,

    Are you thinking of used or new?

    For flat and convex work I like my old Stanley #51. That is the one with the gull wing handles. I also have a #52 with the straight handles and a #63 with the curved sole for working concave surfaces.

    Often spoke shaves need a bit of tuning. I have even found that with new ones. One hassle with the old ones you may pay as much for a replacement blade as you do for a spokeshave.

    Here is something I wrote awhile back about my spokeshaves and a couple to be avoided:

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...sker-on-Shaves

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    I'd probably prefer new - I'd imagine that would involve minimal fettling compared to a used tool, and I am finding that I'd much rather make something than make my tools behave, as some early tool purchases have shown.

  4. #4
    The LN Boggs is a great spokeshave (flat) but is intended for fine cuts. You can get an older Stanley spokeshave and set it up for coarse work.

    I have quite a number of spokeshaves - I got into buying them some time back - but I don't use most of them. The LN is my favorite.

    Mike

    [Here are the spokeshaves I have. Incidentally, LV makes a really nice tool roll for spokeshaves]
    Spokeshaves01.jpg
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 06-23-2016 at 5:53 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
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    I recently picked up a Veritas Low-Angle Spokeshave for "general spokeshave-y work" in a recent Free Shipping sale based on a comment here. It seemed like it would be a good general purpose model. I haven't really used it yet, but it clearly has the build quality we expect from Veritas and won't need any fettling beyond a quick blade honing and getting the depth set to the project.

  6. #6
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    I'd probably prefer new - I'd imagine that would involve minimal fettling compared to a used tool
    The consideration then is if you like the more traditional spoke shave like David mentions or if you would like something with more of a very short plane sole like the Boggs Mike mentions.

    Often used tools have been well fettled by a previous owner.

    Being in Atlanta you might want to head over to Highland Woodworking and see what they have.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  7. #7
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    I have a Stanley 151 and a Veritas round sole one. I use the 151 the most, as it will even work concave surfaces unless it's a very small radius. I use them mostly for roundover/bullnose edges or to clean up/fine tune curved work from the coping or jig saw like this guitar stand.

    image.jpg

  8. #8
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    I recently researched spokeshaves and most advice seemed to sum up as: get a flat spokeshave. I ended up getting the Veritas flat spokeshave. Within a week of getting it, I saw several recommendations and listened to a couple podcasts that were very high on the Veritas low angle spokeshave that was linked by David. I haven't used one but it seems designed to be multi purpose and spokeshave newb friendly.

  9. #9
    Spokeshave blades can be small. So make sure you are comfortable sharpening it. Smaller blades may not fit in some honing jigs. For that reason, I would get a slightly larger, flat bottomed one to start. Also, get one with knob adjusters. These features will make it easier to learn on.

    Personally, I find spokeshaves easy to rehab. The blades are also cheaper to replace than planes. So, I wouldn't be afraid to buy a used Stanley 151.

    But, if you don't want any guess work, then a good value is the Veritas flat bottomed spokeshave. ( I haven't tried the low angle one).

  10. #10
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    This has been posted before, but Paul Sellers has a video on making a spokeshave blade sharpening jig. I made one and it works very well.
    image.jpg image.jpg

  11. #11
    Is a spokeshave a push or pull tool?
    I have used it as a pull tool, but in the videos that I have seen they were used as a push tool.

    I don't think it would make a difference as long as it works.

  12. #12
    Flat and convex. LV. Dream to use. Love 'em.

    I've tried to use Kunz either I'm a dummy or its a POJ (probably the former).

  13. #13
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    Flat soled shaves can do most jobs but may not be the best at curved surfaces. However, shaves with round soles are much harder to learn to use than tools with flat or curved soles. Mastering a round shave involves learning to adjust the angle of cut/bite as the work is being done, which can be harder than it sounds. Actually the soles of many shaves are at some small angle to the blade. A slightly curved sole can be very versatile, round or major curved soles can be hard to master.

    Highland carries: the LN\Boggs Spokeshaves, the LV LA shave, Kunz and Hock kits and blades. The smaller LN shave may require work on the mouth to get it to pass shavings, mine did. Be aware that these shaves have tight mouths, designed more for final work than removing larger amounts of wood.

    My favorite spokeshaves come from Wood Joy Tools. Glenn makes quite a variety at reasonable prices, especially for hand made wood & brass tools with superior woods & metals. Glenn even hand makes his own blades. Just about all of Glenn's tools have adjustments for raising and lowering the blade, some even have an adjustment for opening and closing the mouth. Glenn uses small hex screws for adjusting that are not in the way when the shaves are being used.

    I like Glenn's "Big Spokeshave" with a whopping 6 1/2" blade (5" cutting surface). A specialized shave for hogging off larger amounts of wood with more precision than a drawknife. I probably use my "Livingston Spokeshave" the most. The Livingston is: very sturdy, easy to adjust, can handle large or small shavings, medium sized 3" blade, three way adjustment. This shave allows one to move the blade up/down and in & out too, without moving the sole of the shave. A very unique innovative design which translates into a superior tool IMHO. Glenn's "# 85 Razor's Edge" allows three way adjustment but the sole moves to adjust the mouth.
    "The #85 was the largest of the STANLEY series of wood body, low angle, RAZOR’S EDGE spoke shaves. While our new tool takes advantage of the best features of this very desirable old shave, it improves on the materials and design."
    Glenn offers replacement blades and kits for making your own shave too.

    The blades on Wood Joy spokeshaves can easily be removed from the shave. The owner then has a simple metal rectangular blade, unless it is a round shave, that is easy to sharpen. All the ones I have, have hollow ground, very hard, A2 blades that are a pleasure to sharpen & use. Wood Joy offers other well made tools too, check them out.

    Adam,
    I live in Milton, GA-Metro Atlanta. If you would like to try out a few spokeshaves before deciding what you might want to order. I can sit you down at my renovated shave horse, converted a Tim Manney bodger type shave horse to a dumbhead, using Peter Galbert's newest design. You could try a few out. I have Wood Joys, LN/Boggs and several renovated shaves. PM me if you are interested.

    Tim,
    Regarding whether to push or pull the tool. Many people pull theirs. I change between pushing & pulling according to grain direction. Glenn at Wood Joy suggests that his shaves should normally be pushed. What works for a given individual usually has to do with the type shave they own and specifically how they grip it. Peter Galbert has a YouTube video on how to use his travisher (curved body spokeshave) in which he demonstrates how he believes a device like his should be gripped. YMMV
    Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 06-23-2016 at 11:16 AM.

  14. #14
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    Oct 2011
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    Penn Yan, NY
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    I have a stanley 63 (round bottom) and 64 (flat). These days I've been using the 64 a lot for various smoothing of curved surface tasks. Also comes in handy when building random things for the kids like (really rough / quick and dirty) wooden swords and airplanes.

    I haven't gotten much use out of the 63 - probably mainly because I haven't mastered it. For large-ish radius concave surfaces the 64 works fine. I have get into a pretty tight curve in order for the 63 to work at all for me.

    If I had to do it over again I'd get a nicer, maybe bigger shave with an adjustment mechanism. But I've gotten pretty good at manually adjusting the shaves with hammer taps. The key (as with most of this stuff) is that they work a lot better when they are really sharp...

    As for the push-pull debate. I favor pushing, but pull when the situation / angle / convenience calls for it.

  15. #15
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    Mar 2016
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    I do a lot of shaping work and small projects, so the spokeshave is one of my go-to tools. I love it.

    You could make one yourself. It's actually not very difficult. I made this kind of crude, but very functional one using a woodriver spokeshave blade I found on Amazon:

    IMG_0170.JPGIMG_0171.JPG
    Basically, it's just a wedge undercut above/behind the blade, and the blade is inset so it sits flush. Take a few shavings from the sole until you just start to get a shaving, and then if you want a thicker shaving, just shim the blade with a few pieces of paper.

    It works wonderful.

    I would advise against buying the cheap, modern stanley spokeshaves. I bought one, and even after a ton of work, it only sort of functions well. The little crude one I made out performs it in every way. So, if you're going to buy one, definitely follow some of the recommendations here and get one of decent quality.

    Note: I don't find these blades to be difficult to sharpen, but I do sharpen them differently than my normal procedure. I usually sharpen freehand with a very slight camber, not worrying too much about angle. For these, I maintain a flat bevel and use that as my guide, akin to how Japanese tools are usually sharpened, as it would be far too tricky if any kind of convex geometry were introduced with such a small blade. Unless, that is, you secure the blade and put the stone to it; that can work, and you wouldn't need to worry much about geometry. As with anything, experience and experimentation will find you the method that works for you.
    Last edited by Luke Dupont; 06-23-2016 at 2:43 PM.

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