How would you construct this?

[Jim Gallo]

Hi, I am planning on building this octagon? patio out of pressure treated lumber. I got the idea from Workbench Magazine issue 266. All of the frame lumber will be 2" x 4", and will have dividers and stretchers spaced 16.25" apart to accept a 1 1/2" x 16" x 16" concrete paver, which will lay on a bed of sand inside the frame. I have the center frame piece built, up to where the firepit will be located. I would like to build most of this frame on sawhorses, as I have severe and chronic back issues, and stooping and bending kill my back. But I have got to get this built. She said so. I know building the whole frame (16' 4")will be impossible on sawhorses, but I am looking for some guidance on the easiest way to build sub-assemblies, and which sub-assemblies would be the easiest to attach to what I have already in place, and will have in place. My patio is alot different than that in the magazine, as I am using smaller pavers, resulting in more framing. The frame is not a true octagon because I changed the 22.5 degree angles to diminish the amount of concrete pavers that I will need to cut. I have attached pics of the article, plus a crude drawing I made, to give me an idea of how much lumber and pavers I would need. Thanks for any and all guidance and direction.

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

Two thoughts:

1. How many saw horses and helps do you have? Conceivable, you could build the entire piece on saw horses (or temporary braces) and then set it does on the ground as a single unit. I would do temporary bracing along the top to help with the stability while building/moving, but if you had enough helpers on moving day it should not be a problem.

2. Looking at magazine layout, it looks like you could break it into 3 main sub sections--center rectangle, and two outer sections with the angled sides. I would still consider bracing it for the move, but it should not be a problem.

[Jim Gallo]

Thanks Todd.
I don't have very many sawhorses and the one I do have are different heights. I suppose I could build some more.
But I was thinking more in smaller sub assemblies, because the only help I can be sure of are when my son's come to visit all at the same time, plus maybe a couple buddies.
I think with maybe 4-6 sub assemblies I could handle everything by myself, once I got the middle 3 rows on the ground and leveled and staked.
My problem is deciding which subs to build and where to make the connection. I am also trying to figure out which way to lay out the longest stretch as to cut down on waste. The way it worked out with the 16.25" square openings and the 1.5" thickness of all the dividers, the best I could do was 16' 4". That ended my thought of 16' 2 x 4's. So I plan on scarf jointing a 10' and 8' and go from there. Most of the other long ones are 12' because of the fire pit.

[Bill White]

Just remember that the PT lumber will be very wet, and will curve, warp, bend, wiggle, split, twist and ............
O crap. I can't think of all the adverbs.
Let it dry/acclimate before ya try to build.
Just my thoughts.
Oh, use stainless screws or nails.
Bill

[Von Bickley]

Just remember that the PT lumber will be very wet, and will curve, warp, bend, wiggle, split, twist and ............
O crap. I can't think of all the adverbs.
Let it dry/acclimate before ya try to build.
Just my thoughts.
Oh, use stainless screws or nails.
Bill

You can buy kiln dried PT lumber, but you may have to take out a loan for it (very expensive).
That being said, I do not put wood of any kind in contact with the ground. I would look for some type of material instead of wood.

[Keith Westfall]

Lay out your paver stones with maybe 2" (or 1") spacers on the ground where you want them, all cut to fit. Build a frame around it, (with the appropriate spacer, then remove all the spacers and pour cement in the gaps. No rotting wood for sure that way!

[Rich Enders]

This will not answer your question, but might save you from regretting that you ever tackled this project. DO NOT USE PT LUMBER. Listen to Bill White. In addition to what moisture will do, I can attest from personal experience that exposure to sunlight will render the boards worthless in one year. Consider redwood (all heart), white oak, or even composite (WPC).