When to sharpen vs. when to clean? saw blades

[Jon Endres]

I have a stack of 10" saw blades for my table saw and SCMS that have had their turn on a saw and are either caked in crud or dull, or both. Problem is, I can't tell if the ones that are caked in crud will cut better with a simple cleaning, or if they need an actual sharpening. The wear on blade teeth happens so slowly (unless you hit something foreign like a staple) that it's very hard to tell that the blade needs attention.

When do you decide that a blade needs to be sent in for sharpening?

[Al Launier]

I clean first then try cutting if the edges look good. Soaking them in a cleaner (Pine-Sol, etc.) & then brushing with a tooth brush, or even a brass brush works well. If they require sharpening, you should clean them first anyway.

[John Lanciani]

Cleaning is (almost) free. Clean the blade and use it; if it cuts acceptably it is fine, if it doesn't then send it out for sharpening. I basically clean every blade that comes off of any of my saws before I put them away, that way they are ready to go when I need them. I keep a jug of simple green handy and I just pour it into the oil drain pan that I use for blade cleaning only then put the blade into to soak. After soaking the crap rinses right off of the blade and I pour the simple green back into the jug for next time. Takes less than a minute of my time per blade.

[J.R. Rutter]

Clean, then drag your finger nail lightly over the cutting portion of the tip. If the tip wants to catch and shave a tiny bit off, then it is likely still sharp enough for good cuts. If your fingernail slides over it without catching, then it needs sharpened.

[Earl McLain]

If a blade or bit is dirty, no way to tell if it is dull--it's amazing how little pitch it takes to make a blade or bit drag. I clean pretty regularly so nothing is ever caked.

Summary--clean first.
earl

[John TenEyck]

You should clean blades regularly, whether or not they are dull. The caked on crude reduces performance AND shortens the life of the carbide, or at least the time before they need to be sharpened.

John

[Bruce Wrenn]

Don't worry, your sharpener will clean them before sharpening. For sharpening, I use Dynamic Saw (dynamicsaw.com) in Buffalo NY. Way cheaper than Forest, and just as good if not better. It's amazing how many blades you can get in a large flat rate box from USPS.

[Bill Zickel]

I have a stack of 10" saw blades for my table saw and SCMS that have had their turn on a saw and are either caked in crud or dull, or both. Problem is, I can't tell if the ones that are caked in crud will cut better with a simple cleaning, or if they need an actual sharpening. The wear on blade teeth happens so slowly (unless you hit something foreign like a staple) that it's very hard to tell that the blade needs attention.

When do you decide that a blade needs to be sent in for sharpening?

Jon,

I have a professional saw sharpening shop. I'm not here to sell anything, but I can shed some light on your question.

When we receive a saw blade in for sharpening, we need to clean it to really see whats underneath all that sap and crud. After cleaning, you will see some of the results of what the teeth look like under all that crud.

Below is a video from a local furniture maker, that wanted to see how his blade is repaired and sharpened. He asked if he could video the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJc-J-Jhg1g

[Jim Andrew]

I got a shop teacher degree more than 40 years ago. The cabinet making instructor at FHKSU soaked his blades in carburetor cleaner in the auto shop. Usually they did not require sharpening. I use the spray bit and blade cleaner Grizzly sells, and a tooth brush. Only has to soak for a few seconds.

[Mark Gibney]

Great video. My blade would get more attention being resharpened than I would get going to see my doctor.

[Brian Tymchak]

Hmm, would it be too far over the top to have an Ultrasonic blade cleaner for my basement workshop??

Nice video. Thanks for sharing!

[Andrew Gibson]

Clean, then drag your finger nail lightly over the cutting portion of the tip. If the tip wants to catch and shave a tiny bit off, then it is likely still sharp enough for good cuts. If your fingernail slides over it without catching, then it needs sharpened.

You should clean blades regularly, whether or not they are dull. The caked on crude reduces performance AND shortens the life of the carbide, or at least the time before they need to be sharpened.

John

I could not say it better myself.
Heat is the enemy of any cutting tool. Buildup causes friction. Friction causes heat. Heat kills carbide.
There are a lot of good cleaners out there but here in the shop I use Boeshield Bit and Blade cleaner and a brass brush.

[John Lankers]

I could not say it better myself.
Heat is the enemy of any cutting tool. Buildup causes friction. Friction causes heat. Heat kills carbide.
There are a lot of good cleaners out there but here in the shop I use Boeshield Bit and Blade cleaner and a brass brush.

It can also cause the body of the blade to warp.

[Cody Colston]

It can also cause the body of the blade to warp.

Absolutely. I was ripping some 4/4 ERC a few weeks ago with a thin-kerf Freud blade on my TS. The 4' long board closed up on the saw blade about 3/4 of the way through the cut (didn't have a splitter in with the thin-kerf blade) and I was going to push it on through. The blade started wobbling so badly I thought the arbor nut was loose. I shut off the saw, removed the board and checked the arbor nut...it was tight. Evidently the heat generated by the board closing on the saw blade caused it to warp. It was pretty scary.