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Thread: Looking for a jointer.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    Posts
    26

    Looking for a jointer.

    Hello everyone,

    I am in the market for a jointer. I am just beginning in my woodworking journey and I was wondering if you had any thoughts on the following.

    1. I am leaning 6" for both space and cost. I will be building furniture from entertainment centers to dressers and also dabble in some cabinetry. Will 6" be sufficient?

    2. I am leaning used on craigslits. There are a few Jet and one Steel City that have peaked my interest. Any thoughts/opinions on these?
    -$600 http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ra...620686737.html
    -$500 http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/da...645778793.html
    -Search http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/se...&query=jointer if you see anything else.
    3. Is there another jointer that would produce more bang for my buck?

    Thank you so much for any input.
    -Jacob

  2. #2
    I would really look for an 8". Grizzly has them new priced well, but if you look long and hard you can find a older delta or powermatic near your price range.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    I'd look at the longest bed I could fit in and buy an 8" if possible. For used, seeing them in person and bringing a quality 6' level and feeler gauges will tell you how flat the tables are. That is huge in the jointer game. Wedgebed jointers can be a pain if the tables droop. Parallelogram like the Delta DJ 20 or DJ 15 are pretty decent used jointers as are the green are even yellow Powermatics from the 1970s to early 2000s. Powermatic used very good meehanite cast iron when they made machine here in the US so don't be afraid of age. Dave

  4. #4
    Um, there are 2 Northfield 12" jointers on your craigslist. Problem solved?

    I think you will OFTEN want for those extra 2". If you just look at the distribution of widths of boards that you buy, I think you'll find that at least 50% are between 6" and 8" wide. Few boards are sold narrower than 6", and not too many are wider than 8". It's such a waste of time (and material) to rip wide boards down just to joint them. You really want 8".

    I know these are a little pricier, but they are WELL worth the additional costs and will hold their value better, as well:

    http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ws...604646831.html
    http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...604794386.html

    Or new:
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-x-...le-Base/G0656W

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Pleasant Grove, UT
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    1,503
    Another recommendation that you hold out for an 8" jointer. Of the two linked by Dan, I'd probably go for the Delta. If space restrictions flat out prevent you from getting an 8" jointer, then know that you CAN get a 6", and face anything you have to work over 6" using handplanes. Remember, you won't be thicknessing them, just face jointing them.
    It came to pass...
    "Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
    The road IS the destination.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    449
    Jacob, if you can get the Jet for less than $500 I think that is reasonable. I have the Jet long bed 6" and added a Byrd head to it. The beds may require just little bit of shimming to nail it for coplanar but they are good jointers. I am completely happy with mine. The moment you move to an 8" jointer, you'll have to have 220v, the machines weigh considerably more, cost more, and may not show up used anywhere as often.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    SoCal
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    Answers will vary with experience and use case. I found 6" too narrow 90% of the time. I find 8" wide enough 90% of the time. If you are really space crunched, make a planer sled (assuming a decent planer) and skip the jointer for awhile. I did this for 18 months and was OK. don't get me wrong, I was very glad to get a dedicated 8" jointer but, i survived.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Be patient and quick - a 8" jointer will come for not much more than the 6" you're looking at.
    This is likely true. I've bought two 8" jointers (a DJ-20 and a Grizzly) for <$500/ea on craigslist. Keep your eyes open...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Friedrichs View Post
    Um, there are 2 Northfield 12" jointers on your craigslist. Problem solved?
    You'd have to be insane to pass on either of them. That 12HD for $4,500 is a peach.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    If you are really cramped for space look for an Inca J/P. It's a 10-1/4" jointer and planer. You will thank me a thousand times over you didn't settle for a 6" jointer. I seriously don't know how anyone who wants to use solid wood construction can get by with one. Even 8" is too narrow in my opinion, but a lot of small cabinet shops seem to get by with an 8" jointer and 15" planer. Anyway, a used Inca can be had for $400 - $900 depending upon condition. I had one for 25+ years and made a LOT of furniture and cabinets with it, including many large ones. I finally upgraded to a 14" MiniMax J/P - and would have gotten a 16" if I could have found one for a good price.

    If you can't find an Inca, get an 8" jointer. If you buy a 6" you'll soon be looking for an 8" - or larger.

    John

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
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    One thing to note. I do NOT have 220V in the garage at the moment. Is this a must for a 8"?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Lundmark View Post
    One thing to note. I do NOT have 220V in the garage at the moment. Is this a must for a 8"?
    It may be possible to get it to run on 120V, although it might require a 30A circuit (which you likely don't have, either). Give some thought to adding a few 240V circuits. People tend to be afraid of them, but other than a different width of breaker and a different receptacle, it's no different than adding a 120V circuit (so if you think you're handy enough to do that, don't get scared away from installing a 240V circuit)

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    WNY
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    You can run an Inca on 110V or 220V, at least that's the way the separate Baldor 1.5 HP motor on mine was. Not sure on the later models with a direct drive motor. If you can't find an Inca look at a 12" J/P. Larger, but still smaller than a separate jointer and planer. Those likely have 220 V, only, motors.

    John

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Lundmark View Post
    One thing to note. I do NOT have 220V in the garage at the moment. Is this a must for a 8"?
    When I rented for a year I made a 220V extension cord (Romex, yes, technically illegal) that I could plug into the dryer outlet for my 220V tools. If yours is close by, that may be a temporary work around. Running a 220V line would be recommended of course, which is basically the same as running a 110V line.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Richmond, TX
    Posts
    409
    Go as big as you can afford in both size and cost, consider 8" if you think your woodworking interest will grow. Rikon has a small 10" Jointer/Planer combo machine as does Grizzly Tools.

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