Finish Removal and Glue Strength

[Joe Beaulieu]

Hey Folks,

I am in the process of making and applying tool racks and custom holders to a tool cabinet we just built. I need to attach screwdriver and chisel racks to the inside of the doors. We (SWMBO and I) finished it all before we hung the cabinet. We used two coats of Satin Min-Wax Wipe On Poly. It looks sweet, but I am concerned about how well the wooden tool racks will adhere to this finished panel. Do I need to sand down the poly where I intend to attach these, or will my yellow TiteBond II hold them? Is there a better glue - maybe a poly based glue like Gorilla (yes TV ads do work)?

The tool racks are made of hard maple and are 3/4 in thick by about 10" long and 2" deep. The door surface is Maple plywood. I wasn't planning on using any other fasteners but the glue - I know glue would be strong enough if I was going unfinished face to unfinished face. Will the polyurethane be that much of a barrier so that the glue only bonds to its surface? It will be awkward and time consuming to remove the finish. I just want to get my tools in it and start using it!

Thanks folks - your help is always fantastic and very much appreciated.

Joe

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would suggest sanding the to be glued surfaces to raw wood, if you leave the finish on I don't think they will hold long term. The another option would be drill a couple holes for dowels and glue both ends of the dowels.

[Doug Hepler]

Joe,

I agree with Bryan's recommendation that you sand the finish off the surface to be glued. It will not be too tedious to sand off two coats of wipe-on poly. PVA will not adhere strongly to finished wood. It will be OK for a while until the glue fully cures and then probably (IMO) fail. I think it is possible that polyurethane glue would adhere well enough, especially if you scuff sand the finish. If you really don't want to sand it, you could call it a "design opportunity" and dowel the racks or screw them on. If you don't want the screw heads to show, counterbore them and plug the holes with hardwood dowels.

We all make mistakes like that, and we are differentiated by the care we take in correcting them. Do it right this time and next time it will be easier. Please pardon the sermon

Doug

[David Pascoe]

You should make it a rule to NEVER glue to a finished surface, especially with wood glue. Not only will it bond poorly but the joint will be dependent on the strength of theeeee finish bond to the wood. Either remove the finish or use mechanical fasteners.

[Jim Becker]

Glues commonly used with wood need to have access to the wood fibers, so if you're using PVA like Titebond, yes...you'll need to remove finish at the install site. You could use an alternative glue, such as epoxy, but even then you really should at least abrade the existing finish for best adhesion. Your other alternative is mechanical fasteners from behind...no glue required if you use screws.

[Curt Harms]

I'd go with Jim's recommendation. I did glue some trim to a cabinet with Polyurethane glue - no mechanical fasteners - and so far it's holding, been 15+ years. But all the glue is holding is the trim, there's no mechanical stress or load on it.