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Thread: 2nd Build (first) - CNC Router

  1. #91
    Quote Originally Posted by David Falkner View Post
    ... 500 watt, 48V, 10.4 amp each ...
    At 48VDC options start narrowing quickly, but p/n 2907720 or 2320160 would work. Phoenix Contact is German, so price will probably be scary, but I've never had one fail under warranty.

    I've applied for name change too.

  2. #92
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    David, what's the max amp draw of your stepper drivers again? By the time you get to anything even remotely close to max you will be at the end of your axis. Put X and A on one and Ys on another. Done. You don't need load balancing.
    Last edited by Mike Heidrick; 08-30-2016 at 11:52 AM.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malcolm McLeod View Post
    At 48VDC options start narrowing quickly, but p/n 2907720 or 2320160 would work. Phoenix Contact is German, so price will probably be scary, but I've never had one fail under warranty.

    I've applied for name change too.
    You can withdraw the name change request... I guess I was reading too many posts at once - sorry!

    I'm a stickler for getting names and spelling correct because most people want to put a 'u' in Falkner but it never had it, never will.
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  4. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    David, what's the max amp draw of your stepper drivers again? By the time you get to anything even remotely close to max you will be at the end of your axis. Put X and A on one and Ys on another. Done. You don't need load balancing.
    5.5 amps. I also don't think I'll hit that unless something stalls. If that happens bigger issues are at hand, I would think. Should I put Z with the X and A?

    Thanks, Mike!
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  5. #95
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    David,

    The MDF is a good start along with T-Tracks. You can buy T-Tracks in bulk on EBAY. Another choice would be MDO, its a waterproof laminated plywood with Kraft face on both sides. It is very stable and is used for concrete forms in freeway column construction.

    Regards!
    Ed

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed vitanovec View Post
    David,

    The MDF is a good start along with T-Tracks. You can buy T-Tracks in bulk on EBAY. Another choice would be MDO, its a waterproof laminated plywood with Kraft face on both sides. It is very stable and is used for concrete forms in freeway column construction.

    Regards!
    Ed
    Ah, thanks, Ed! I didn't know about that - do the big box stores have MDO?
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  7. #97
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    Got a little further today on the build but not by leaps and bounds... The proximity sensors weren't going to be in the right location so I drilled new holes, 31/64", and that was difficult in this stress relieved steel. That is some hard stuff! It took about half an hour to drill 3 holes and I had to sharpen the drill bit about 4 times.

    Anyway, I decided to move the enclosure to the front of the machine instead of on the rear where I had initially planned to mount it. I just couldn't get comfortable with it being on the opposite end of the machine. Tomorrow I'll drill the holes in the stand and get it mounted though I'll have to take it back off to drill all the holes for cable entry.

    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Falkner View Post
    Should I put Z with the X and A?

    !
    I sure would. I have four 3.5 amp G50 drivers (a G540) using nema23s on one Meanwell 48V 12.5 amp power supply. (X, Y, A slaved to Y, and Z) - zero issues ever. Shy of crazy 3d work you will not even use A and Z at the same time ever. Heck you will barely use X and A and even if you do it will not be at full load.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  9. #99
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    Did you consider putting that controller on the side and mounting your E chain above it and then make a 90 degree at the gantry and run the X echain down that? Ion the side will require the least length of cables. The side is prob the most efficient for running your cables. In front you are blocking places to verticaly mount or gain access to your vertical mount. If you want an estop or power buttones in front, fine move those and mount them in front out of the way but you should not be in your cabinet much.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    I sure would. I have four 3.5 amp G50 drivers (a G540) using nema23s on one Meanwell 48V 12.5 amp power supply. (X, Y, A slaved to Y, and Z) - zero issues ever. Shy of crazy 3d work you will not even use A and Z at the same time ever. Heck you will barely use X and A and even if you do it will not be at full load.
    That's kind of what I thought, Mike. Even though the combined max current of two steppers is .6 amps more than each power supply's rating I didn't figure they would ever see that max current. And if it did it would be momentary.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    Did you consider putting that controller on the side and mounting your E chain above it and then make a 90 degree at the gantry and run the X echain down that? Ion the side will require the least length of cables. The side is prob the most efficient for running your cables. In front you are blocking places to verticaly mount or gain access to your vertical mount. If you want an estop or power buttones in front, fine move those and mount them in front out of the way but you should not be in your cabinet much.
    It was a brief consideration but I don't have any room on that side. I have decided to put the computer on that side but it's thinner and I don't have to open the panel on it. If I need to get into the computer the side slides off but if I need to open the enclosure there's no room to get in there to do any work. And I can't move the machine further away from my work bench. I have the proverbial size 12 foot in a size 10 shoe and I just have to make it work. Btw, all of what you said makes sense if I could move the machine away from the work bench, but...

    It's 14" between the work bench and stepper and the enclosure would stick out another 3". That would leave me 11" clearance and the door to the enclosure is 20" wide so that just won't work, not to mention needing to get up to the work bench to use it as I often do -
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  11. #101
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    David,

    My friend buys his MDO at a specialty lumber store.

  12. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed vitanovec View Post
    David,

    My friend buys his MDO at a specialty lumber store.
    I checked at Lowe's today and they don't have it nor can they get it. I didn't have time to check Home Depot but maybe tomorrow I can check around. Thanks, Ed!
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  13. #103
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    I've laid out my template for drilling holes for connectors on the side of the enclosure and hope to get to that tonight. Lots of holes!

    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  14. #104
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    One of those times when it's really nice to have a floor model drill press!

    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  15. #105
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    Is the case steel or aluminum? If aluminum, those holes would be a perfect job for a Unibit.
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