Maybe back in April??????
Igor went on strike, and refuses to clean the Dungeon Shop......
We have Brown Recluse Spider that like to repell down to about nose level, and every now and then, we have Brown Bats going through the shop....
Contributor
Maybe back in April??????
Igor went on strike, and refuses to clean the Dungeon Shop......
We have Brown Recluse Spider that like to repell down to about nose level, and every now and then, we have Brown Bats going through the shop....
Last edited by steven c newman; 07-10-2016 at 11:03 PM.
Contributor
Hi JoannaOriginally Posted by Johanna Johanson
I see many recommendations. Only one regarding the LV BU Jointer, and the information was incorrect.
I have a couple of suggestions, but let's deal with the LV BU Jointer first. This is very fine plane, easy to set up and very well balanced with a low centre of gravity. Being a BU plane, the cutting angle can be altered as you choose, and high angle bevel (e.g. 40 degrees) will enable you to perform most tasks faultlessly on the typical US timbers. This plane should feel more controllable on edges than the average BD #7. The down sides to the plane is that it may be heavier than you like, and it does not have flat sides, which means it cannot be used to shoot edges when running on a bench top. Otherwise excellent jointer.
One of the advantages of the BU Jointer is that it can also be used with a dedicated fence for jointing ..
If you want a lighter version of this plane, plus one that can be used to shoot, then consider the LV LA Jack. It is shorter (15") than a typical jointer plane (#7 is 22"), but will be perfect for smaller work.
The other suggestion is the HNT Gordon Trying Plane. This is also shorter than the average jointer at 18". It is a woodie with a high angle bed (60 degrees) and, counter the current fashion, has a single blade (i.e. no chipbreaker). This is a light, very precise worker. Terry Gordon makes very reliable planes and they work with no fuss. The blade is 2" wide, it may be pushed (or pulled) holding the body ala Krenov planes or with the Chinese cross handle. This is my jointer of choice for narrow edges.
Review: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...g%20Plane.html
Using higher cutting angles in these planes is not a negative factor - that is, will not make them harder to push - since I expect that you will be taking lighter, thinner shavings anyway.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Member
Take it from me, after having used smoothers and jacks for everything, getting a jointer was one of the best things I've done. The other day I picked up a 26" wooden jointer for $28 at a flea market. At first I wanted an iron plane but I settled for a woodie and it turned out quite well, if you can get one with a nice and flat bottom I say jump on it. The weight of a wooden plane lacks and I don't have an iron one to compare it to but when I sharpened mine up, the first swipe across a board (a rough board) did what my jack and smoother could do but in one swipe. I'm not saying they'll all be that way and I'm still out for a metal jointer, but a wooden plane is a good way to go.
I was once a woodworker, I still am I'm just saying that I once was.
Chop your own wood, it will warm you twice. -Henry Ford
Contributor
Then there is the best of both worlds..
refurbbed planes.jpg
Stanley #28 and #29 try and jointer planes. the 28 is about 18, the 29 is about 20" long, Both use the same cutter width..2-3/8" . These were auction finds..$5 for the pair. Cleaned up nicely, too.
Moderator
I am learning that planes are highly personal, ergonomic choices.
Lately I have been using a wood try plane and my Veritas bevel up jointer to flatten my workbench.
Reasons I prefer my wood try plane:
- It is lighter and less fatiguing.
- It is a bevel down configuration. With bd planes, I have learned it is possible to set the chip breaker close enough to the edge such that there is low risk of 'gouging'. There can still be very minor tearout, so it pays to pay attention to grain direction, but it's not as gougy as a low angle plane can be if taken in the wrong direction. By cambering the blade aggressively, you can really take a narrow, aggressive cut that is controlled and easy to push. This makes jointing wide surfaces much easier. Before, when taking too shallow a pass (for fear of tearout) a long plane can't often find the high spot, so you have to identify the highs with a straight edge often, and use a shorter plane in localized areas, which forces you to pay careful attention to what you're removing. But with a long plane and a deeper cut, the plane can find many of the high spots more easily. So, I find that I can do more with this one plane - instead of having to switch back and forth. Because this long plane is in my hands longer, it is a benefit that it is very light (per my first point above).
The low angle jointer is a wonderful plane - especially on easier woods. Bevel down planes do take more time to release and reset the blade than do bevel ups. But this eventually becomes less daunting - even on those Primus planes with the adjusters.
I will also caveat all of this by saying you can probably make ANY plane work extremely well with requisite practice in sharpening and planing. I find that as my skills have improved, even my very first, beater smoother has been made to work extremely well. So, know that whatever you get, you gotta practice to make it sing.
Last edited by Prashun Patel; 07-11-2016 at 8:50 AM.
Member
I use a #6 and also have a #8 wooden plane. My #6 is a really nice type 17 Stanley that I picked up for $45. I have used the Veritas BU plane, it has a very nice balance.
However, I found that with practice I could joint almost any edge I needed with a well tuned #5.
Good luck and keep us posted.
[OP]
Member
Up to 6 feet (dressers, dining table).
Johanna
Placitas, New Mexico
[OP]
Member
I have not been able to find a wooden one yet. I'll search for Primus specifically to see what I find - thanks!
Johanna
Placitas, New Mexico
[OP]
Member
I plan to continue using my jointer and planer to do basic milling. I am looking for the jointer plane to refine and completely level the stock and to prepare edges for gluing.
Johanna
Placitas, New Mexico
Contributor
The hardest part for you may be due to your location. You will do not have a lot of opportunity to 'test drive' different planes before making a decision.
With the power tools to prep your work, a #6 might be an adequate size for your needs. A #7 would be a bit of icing on your cake. (of course if you do not like icing on your cake a different analogy might be better.)
Is there any local pawn shops, flea markets or second hand shops?
Looking at ebay it appears the lowest charge for shipping starts around $20.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
Try Steve Voigt.
When you say dining tables, do you mean face jointing slabs?
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Moderator
Johanna-
Before you buy a wood plane, try one first. They do have a little bit of a learning curve, and not everyone may like what they have to offer. Especially if you are planning to do much of your milling with power tools, and are just looking for final refinement. Wood planes can be a little awkward to use with smaller hands (like mine). Even if custom sized, you have to lay a paw across the front. Setting and tapping the blade can also be a little fidgety at first. Once up the curve, some find it easier and quicker than metal plane blade setting, but there IS a learning curve.
Also, for final jointing of edges, a boxy try or wood plane can be a little tippy. Again, it gets easier, but the Veritas jointer has a very low center of gravity and I think that assists its balance when jointing skinny edges.
I really think you should (read, hope you can) find some local Creekers to let you try the different types on for size. And I would say don't just use it, but practice removing and re-setting the blades in all of them.
Contributor
As Prashun says, it is a personal preference. While I've fallen firmly in the LV Veritas camp personally, I'd guess the Primus wooden plane Allan suggested would be a good choice for you.
Let me add one clarification about the LV Veritas line. Warren wrote as if they offer one jointer plane:
which is their Bevel-Up Jointer. A quick browse of their website shows four other planes that could work as a jointer depending on your work style. In bevel-up there are the 22" long 7lb 8oz Jointer and the 15" long 5lb 12oz Jack, both with 2-1/4" wide irons. In bevel-down, with chip breakers, they have three medium to long planes. Two in their custom line, #5-1/2 Jack which is 15" long and 6lb 9oz, and the #7 Jointer which is 22" long and 8lb 9oz. They also have a (non-custom) #6 Fore plane which is 18" long, (no weight is given). All three use a 2-3/8" wide iron and a chip-breaker.
Adding: Trying planes out, if possible, is a wonderful suggestion.
Last edited by David Bassett; 07-11-2016 at 1:52 PM. Reason: Typos, (never seen in preview. :-( )
Member
Dear Johanna,
it might be more advantageous to search the name of the manufacturer. There are two manufacturers in Germany which produces similar planes : E.C.E and Ulmia. Both export their planes too. This link http://www.fine-tools.com/rauh.html get you an overview which types of jointers are available. I myself prefer the non Primus type, the wedged one. After a short while you are comfortable with tapping the blade. (Use every time the same hammer, or at least the same weight).
Hope this was helpful.
Greetings from Germany
Joachim Schmidt
Contributor
Been using this "thing"
IMAG0010.jpg
Turning resawn pine planks into boards, faces and..
IMAG0012.jpg
Edges. The holes were made to attach a fence long ago ( before I bought it) I just use the left index finger as the fence.
Stanley No.7c, Type 9....doesn't do too badly
IMAG0011.jpg
When this becomes a full-width shaving, I am done with that area.
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