Getting ready to build a router table. questioning how much is to much?

[Brian Sommers]

What I would really like to have is the Incra LS fence system and the Incra lift and all of those Incra goodies.

I realize that it will set me back about 1100-1200 US bucks.

It will take me a long time to save up to that amount.

so.... do i:

1. save up for it anyway even if it takes me 6 months to a year and do without a router table?
or
2. build something else that maybe wouldn't be as high precision and all of that fancy stuff and get it done within the next month or two?

I keep thinking do I really need to adjust my head within a thousandths of an inch?

I'm leaning with #2, then at least I could do some things.

I'm at the point where I really could use one.

I want a RT that would be functional but not to "hick" (forgive me, I don't mean to offend anyone, I, just don't know what word to use here.)

I have 3 books:
Woodworking with the Router
Router Magic
Router Joinery

[Doug Hobkirk]

My feelings (irrelevant to all but me, of course) is make a basic one, or get somewhat fancy and build Pat Warner's (?) fence. I'd think in 6 months you will have a better understanding of what you need and/or want (including how often you use it). Plus there's the pride factor in DIY...

[Ralph Okonieski]

An accurate lift is extremely useful. If you are trying to setup lock mitres, for example, the depth is one of the critical setup parameters; the other is the fence.

you could always start with a straight board with clamps to use as a fence until saving enough for a commercial one. I made my own fences, still do not have a commercial one.

[Brian W Evans]

As you probably noticed, in Router Joinery, Gary Rogowski uses a piece of plywood hanging off of his workbench for a router table and a straight board for a fence. i've seen Doug Stowe do the same. Both have good videos showing this. Rogowski's is a companion to his router book.

That being said, I have a cast iron router table, a woodpecker lift, and a woodpecker fence. You can do good work either way. It really comes down to personal preference and your tolerance for making fences, jigs, etc.

[Jim Dwight]

I've had at least 4 router tables including two setups I still have. One of my current ones is just a thinned area of my table saw extension table (made of melamime) and a fence that attaches to t-nuts in the extension table. The fence has slots for adjustment. I used it to make some raised panel doors and other things before making my main one.

My main router table looks like Norm Abraham's new yankee workshop table. The side drawers for bits are a great arrangement and it has a few more drawers. I incorporated a home made lift based upon an old American woodworker article. It has machined steel bars, two 1 inch diameter, with oilite bushings. Height is adjusted with a piece of 3/8 all thread so one revolution is 1/16 inch. The top hinges up for bit changes. I have no desire for a fancier more expensive router table. The wood construction helps dampen vibration. Fine fence movements are easy. The fence clamps onto the top with very short bar clamps. Loosening one end so you can pivot the fence allows easy very fine adjustment. It can be easily moved since it is on 4 totally locking casters. Height is the same as my workbench and table saw. I have a horizontal capability on it two. Just a flat piece of melamine with a PC690 base screwed on that is attached to the back. Pivoting screw height adjustment on that one.

I really do not get purchased router tables. I do not even use a plate. I just don't think they are a benefit. I think router tables are one thing you make yourself. Works for me.

[johnny means]

From a career bench carpenter. That Incra stuff and the like is absolutely unnecessary. I've been in a few shops, built a lot of stuff, some rather high end. I've never seen any professional that needed those contraptions. Obviously, you're not swimming in money, a well built wooden fence and a few shop made jigs will get an awful lot done. Then that thousand dollars can buy you something that actually does expand your capabilities.

[Bradley Gray]

I have numerous "tables" for routers, mostly a scrap chunk of 3/4 birch with a fence screwed on for a single purpose - gets things done.

If you don't have scrap ply, you could likely get some for free from a local cabinet shop. I try to give it away regularly.

Since you are limited by funds, I think you are better off buying project wood and making something!

[Brian Sommers]

Thanks for all the replies, that really helps. I guess I better get started.

[Doug Hepler]

Brian

I am definitely going to support Johnny Means here. Also, Brian Evans referred to Gary Rogowski's video and his "router table" hanging off the end of his bench. Gary is someone who I respect greatly as a woodworker and teacher. All that fancy stuff that we all drool over are unnecessary luxuries IMO.

I bought a cheap router table 30+ years ago before I knew what I was doing. It has a smallish cast aluminum table and two sheet metal wings. The fence is little more than a board with clamps at the end and a dust port in the middle. My router lift is the depth adjustment that came with the fixed base PC 7518 variable speed router. I clamped it to my workbench for a while, and then built a table to put it on, with shelves and drawers beneath to store bits and stuff. I am still using that same cheap router table after all these years, despite (or maybe because of) learning more and more about how to use a table mounted router, including lock miters, drawer lock bits etc. I don't have a jointer any more so this router also serves as a jointer. I have made jigs and fences as needed as I go along. It adds to the fun.

I'm not opposed to luxury. I admit setups might take me a bit longer (I suppose) than they would if I had micrometer this and that, but there are lots of other tools I would rather buy with the $2000 or so that a fancy router table setup would cost. And I enjoy solving problems in the shop. Depth gauges are cheap and accurate. You can move the fence by a few thousandths with a block of wood clamped to the table and a feeler gauge.

A reasonable compromise might be something like a PC 698 router table. Use that a while before you decide to spend big bucks -- at least you will know what you want by then.

Just my $ 2/100

Best regards

Doug

[Bill Conerly]

You may be brighter than me, but I have to make a bunch of stupid mistakes before I'm good at anything. And you can make stupid mistakes on a home-brew table as easy as on an expensive one.

[John T Barker]

I bought a router table about 25 years ago when I worked for Woodcraft (employee discount) but have never used it. It is on the "some day" list. I've done very well with a hunk of ply.
I've never seen anything done in woodworking that requires 1/1000th adjustment.

[John Lankers]

The best RT is one you design and build. I built my current one, which shares similarities with Norm Abram's router cabinet, several years ago and the only mistake was to install a miter slot. I have the LS Positioner but use my 10 year old Freud fence 99% of the time - not to downplay it's qualities but a simple fence almost always does the trick.
And yes, Gary Rogowsky's videos are definitely worth watching.

[Tom M King]

+1 on what Johny Means said. I've been doing this stuff for a living for 43 years, and never owned a fancy router lift. For instance, I did a $38,000 job using these. A fancy lift and table would not only have not been worth the cost, but it would not have saved me any time, or worked as well.

[Jim Andrew]

Best thing I did on my router tables was get some scrap 1/2" plexiglas and make router plates. Just pull the router out of the table to adjust the height and change blades. Since I got a 3hp shaper, with power feeder, only thing I do with the router tables is store my bits and accessories.

[Robert Engel]

I think this is probably the ONE DIY tool project totally justified.

Although I have their box joint jig, I kind of have to agree with the poster re: Incra not necessary. But its nice if you have the budget.

I have gotten by quite satisfactorily with a homemade router table and fence I built according to some plans I believe in Shop Notes, but there are lots of plans.

Few basic ideas:
The top should be thick and double sided laminate.
The fence should be tall (mine is 8") and have adjustable sides to slide in and out according to the bit.
T tracks in fence to hold feather boards. T track/miter slot in top.
I think a fence and top made of MDF with laminate works well.

I don't use it a lot so I haven't invested in a nice router lift I just use a Router Raizer and get by fine with that.

I've never seen anything done in woodworking that requires 1/1000th adjustment.

DITTOS!!